Environs
This page describes two circular walks, both beginning at the west door of the cathedral, and exploring sites to the East and the West of the cathedral.
The first walk concentrates on the area to the east of the cathedral, but begins at the west door.
Walk south from here into the square bounded by the cathedral nave and the south transept. This is where the cloisters used to stand
The entrance to the chapter house lies almost immediately south of the cathedral, abutting the south transept.
The chapter house itself has disappeared, but the archway from its entrance still remains.
The pillars may have been recovered from an earlier roman building.
The chapter house was the administrative centre of the cathedral / monastery. In effect a debating chamber. Some of the seats can be seen beyond the pillars
Beside the chapter house is a small garden in the site of the monks dormitory. If you feel ready for a rest, this is a pleasant and quiet place to sit and rest.
When the cathedral was also part of the monastery it was run by the prior - leaving the bishop free to travel on diocesan or national business.
When the monasteries were dissolved, the Dean became responsible for the day to day running of the cathedral. Leaving the bishop free to address wider issues.
This is the dean's house, originally built in the 13th century as the prior's house. It lies in the cathedral close, south of the chapter house.
The original building was damaged in the Civil war, and an east wing added in 1671 so that Charles II could be entertained in the style to which he was accustomed.
The close is surrounded by attractive houses in a wide variety of styles.
The Judge's Lodging
Within the cathedral close these timber framed stables probably date from the early 16th century. Built just before the monastery closed, they are now part of the Pilgrim school
The porter's lodge and Cheyne court are 15th century buildings which rest against the town walls near St Swithun's gate.
St Swithun's gate is also from the 15th century. It marks the boundary between the walled lands belonging to the church and the walled town.
Walk through St Swithun's gate and turn left.
One of the two remaining town gates (King's Gate) lies just outside St Swithun's gate.
Above King's gate is a small chapel dedicated to St Swithun.
Go through this gate.....
...but before turning left, into College street, note an attractive pub - The Wykeham Arms, and opposite, a Victorian letter box set into a shop window.
The wall of the cathedral precinct runs along the north side of College Street, and a row of attractive houses and shops along the south side. The overhangs show that several date from the 16th century. Their appearance would have been modernised when new, elegant styles of stone and brick building made the earlier timber framed buildings seem ramshackle, and higgledy-piggledy.
Continuing down College Street you will pass the house where Jane Austen lived for a short time until her death. It is marked by a blue plaque.
Further along, pass Winchester College.
The college was founded in 1382 by Bishop William of Wykeham, as part of a coherent education system which included New College, Oxford (1380-1386). Originally intended for 80 pupils it expanded greatly in later years, and the 14th century buildings are surrounded by later work.
After a while College St leads to the Bishop's palaces
The bishops of Winchester were powerful men, engaged in national politics, and needed large and fortified palaces for their own protection. In the twelfth century they had castles at Farnham in Surrey, Downton on Wiltshire, Taunton in Somerset, Merdon, Walton, and Winchester in Hampshire and palaces at Southwark and Winchester.
Wolvesey's Palace lies south east of the cathedral. It was built as the bishop's palace, starting in 1130-40 by Henry of Blois. It was essentially a castle, complete with a keep, walls and fortifications.
The palace was destroyed after the civil war, before which it had been often used to entertain royalty. Henry V entertained the French ambassadors here, and Mary Tudor stayed here before her marriage to Philip of Spain in the cathedral.
This is the view from the top of the cathedral tower. Beyond the lawns you can see the remains of the wall that surrounded the church lands and the city.
The later bishop's house dates from more civilised times (1684), although it is built on earlier, Norman foundations and incorporates an earlier chapel.
The remaining palace, which is still where the bishop lives, is the west wing of a larger palace built by bishop Morley.
Beyond the palace we could turn right and follow the river south to the church of St Cross. However, in this case we will follow the river and the town wall north, back towards the high street.
The medieval walls are built on the line of the earlier Saxon walls, which in turn replaced the Roman walls. No doubt all reuse material from their predecessors.
Shortly before reaching the main road, there is a small (and rather disappointing) section of Roman town wall exposed near to the path.
On reaching the watermill (now a National Trust property and Youth Hostel) we turn left towards the high street.
The statue of King Alfred the Great was erected in 1901 - 1000 years after Alfred's death.
Alfred (849-901) was born in Wantage as the youngest son of King Ethelwulf. By the time he succeeded to the throne of Wessex in 871 the Danes had overrun England from the Thames northwards. Initially he could do little to resist, but eventually drove the Danes back, and became king of a united England. He was buried in Winchester, at Hyde abbey. His grave is claimed (with little justification) to be in the graveyard of St Benedict's church - a simple flat stone marked only with a small cross.
Abbey House, and the gardens behind it, are on the original site of the Saxon Nunneminster, of which some remains have been uncovered to the west of the house. In the gardens there is a greek temple, built in 1751 to hide the view from the house, of the mill behind it.
The core of abbey house is mid-18th century, but the face is a 19th century imitation of Tudor interpretation of gothic architecture.
An enthusiastically victorian gothic building dating from 1871, loosely based on Belgian cloth halls such as the one in Bruges. Not to everyone's taste, with the extension to the west coming in for some criticism.
Look out for the meteorological gizmos!
Signs lead from here to the south and west offering numerous routes back to the cathedral, and the start of the next portion of walk.
Our second walk also begins at the west door of the cathedral, but this time concentrates on the area further to the west.
Notice first, how nearly all of the houses which abut the cathedral close are facing away from the cathedral. Why? I don't know. If you do, please tell me.
Secondly, identify a number of gravestones up the bank from the cathedral. Only one of these is of any real interest, so hunt out Thomas Thetcher. The inscription reads...
In memory of Thomas Thetcher, a grenadier in the North Regt of Hants militia, who died of a violent Fever contracted by drinking Small Beer when hot on the 12th May 1764, Aged 26 years
In grateful remembrance of whose universal good will towards his Comrades, this stone is placed here at their expence as a small testimony of their regard and concern.
Here sleeps in peace a Hampshire Grenadier. Who caught his death by drinking cold small beer
Soldiers be wise from his untimely fall. And when ye're hot, drink Strong or none at all
This memorial being decay'd was restored by the offices of the Garrison A.D 1781
An honest soldier never is forget. Whether he die by musket or by pot.
The stone was replaced by the North Hants Militia when disembodied at Winchester on 26th April 1802 in consequence of the original stone being destroyed.
And again replaced by The Royal Hampshire Regiment 1966
Walking away from the cathedral brings us to Little Minster Street, and an attractive warren of narrow streets, houses and shops.
We explore these briefly, then make a diversion to the south, following the wall of the cathedral precinct along Symonds Street to see a small cluster of almshouses - Christ's hospital founded in 1607 by local worthy, Peter Symonds, for the benefit of "Six old men, One matron, Four boys, and also to the assistance of one scholar in each of the two English universities. (Presumably Oxford and Cambridge) - an odd mixture!
From here, turn with our backs to St Swithun's gate in the distance, and strike west, up Swithun street, then right (back north) towards the high street, along St Thomas Street, both of which contain a number of fine, large brick houses.
We will follow the high street downhill on our return journey, so for now, work westwards, uphill, along St Clement's lane, through the back streets south of the high street to come to Castle Hill and the Great Hall. The final steep climb leading to the hall reflects the original mound of the motte and bailey castle which originally stood here.
The hall was built between 1222 and 1236, as part of the rebuilding of the castle after it was besieged in 1216. It is one of the finest medieval halls in the country. The porch was added by the victorians.
Inside the hall an enormous round table hangs on the wall. The table dates from the 13th century (not king Arthur and Camelot) and was painted in Henry VIII's reign with King Arthur shown in Tudor dress.
After he was restored to the throne King Charles II had Christopher Wren design a royal palace to be built on this site. Work was begun but never completed, and the remains burned down in the 19th century. Behind the hall is a small reconstruction of a medieval garden, and the foot of the walls from King Charles' palace can still be seen in the garden, marked by drips of melted tar left from when the palace burned down.
North of the great hall we come to the West Gate of the town, which lies at the top of the high street. As with so much of central Winchester this gate preserves 2000 years of history with its position on top of the western Roman gateway. At its core it is a 13th century construction, the west (outer) face seen here is a little later. The two shields show the Royal coat of arms (left) and the arms of the city of Winchester (right).
Inside is a museum, and there is access to the roof for fine views down the high street and across the town.
Close by, and within sight of the gate, is a plague monument in the form of a stone obelisk. This was erected in 1759 to commemorate the last occurence of plague in Winchester - a serious outbreak in 1666 that claimed around 25% of the population.
The high street leads downhill from the West Gate and we follow this route back to our starting point beside the cathedral. On the way we pass a number of interesting buildings, only a couple of which we cover here. Its worth paying attention to the first and second stories of the building, which are generally more interesting than the ground floor. Several have shallow first floor bay windows (oriel windows), which are characteristic of Winchester.
On the way down the high street, a brief diversion left (north) along Jewry street will take us past a number of striking buildings, including:
Further out, and beyond the normal scope of such a walk, lie the remains of Hyde Abbey. Most notably the gatehouse.
Reputedly this was where King Alfred was buried.
In the churchyard of St Bartholomew's Church, just below the east end, lies a simple grave, marked only with a cross, which is said to be where he lies.
Back on the high street, Godbegot house is a large, four story, timber framed, building from the 16th century. The front was over-restored in the 19th century and lacks character. The side of the building is much more interesting - where the original structure and its massive timbers are clearly visible in the lane alongside.
Opposite is the old Guildhall - now a bank with a reconstruction of a much older clock dominating its face.
The colonaded row of shops along the high street is attractively uneven. Just west of this the road widens out at the butter cross (15th century, restored in 1865) which still provides a favourite meeting place for street life in the summer.
Opposite the colonades is an old Methodist chapel, which is now a Laura Ashley shop. Just one example of why it pays to look above the shopfronts!
This is where William the Conqueror's castle stood, before it was replaced by the castle near the West Gate. The curious narrowing an widening of the street in this area reproduces the outline of the old castle buildings.
Narrow lanes lead us back to the cathedral.
Navigation
At its current state of development, this concludes the walk round Winchester Cathedral.
However, work continues, and all constructive suggestions are welcome.
No prizes - but if you do visit the cathedral, then you may want to look out for the gargoyle that I use to flag the navigation footer, and send me an Email to prove you found it!
