NB This page is still being updated, but to make available the latest information it was posted 21 February 2002 with minor revisions in January 2003
Easily reached via the Baltic, beautiful St. Petersburg
offers good marinas, a great welcome with warm
summer weather, fantastic museums, inexpensive supplies. Through the
bridges, an experience in itself, the broad
River Neva leads to Europe's largest lake,
Ladoga with its religious archipelago Valaam
from which a locked River Svir leads through unspoilt
countryside, virgin forest and tiny villages to Lake
Onega with the magical Kizhi Island and Maritime
Centre at Petrozavodsk.
Canals from this lake also lead to the White and Black Seas.
Cruising Inland to Petrozavodsk and Belomorsk
Supplies: food, water, diesel, gas
Local Boats owners and customs
Hardcopy These web pages are similar to Infopak for Russia by the same author (Cruising Association).
CAUTION
The sailing directions in these web pages should not be used for navigation except in conjunction with the proper up-to-date charts of appropriate scale, together with the latest Notices to Mariners.
The author accepts no responsibility for the result of any errors or omissions. Responsibility is expressly disclaimed for any injury, loss or damage howsoever caused or contributed to by negligence or otherwise in reliance upon such information.
©Raymond Glaister 2003
Many yachtsmen are apprehensive about taking their yachts into Russia, and leave them in Helsinki to continue over-land. They need not be worried. The Russians arguably offer the warmest welcome of any European country, while in a St. Petersburg Yacht Club you can feel more secure than in many home ports. The Cruising Association's Honorary Local Representative, Vladimir Ivankiv, falls over backwards to give members and others every help that they need while in St. Petersburg or planning to cruise further into Russia. Russian yachtsmen are invariably helpful to foreign yachtsmen, and many speak English. Although Russia has opened its inland waterways and lakes to foreign yachtsmen, there is some way to go before inland cruising becomes routine. Russia offers a challenge to the adventurous!
St. Petersburg is one of Europe's most beautiful cities, and the Russians are steadily restoring it to its former (pre-1916) glory. The Hermitage is arguably Europe's finest museum and art gallery. The world's largest fountain complex at Peterhof, vandalized by the Germans in WW2, has been fully restored although the palace is still under restoration, and can be visited by hydrofoil, in 40 minutes by rail, or you can sail there.
GSM roaming agreements mean that your mobile 'phone can be used in the
city, both to make and receive calls.
St. Petersburg offers a choice of four Yacht Clubs
with marinas. Although primitive compared with the best European marinas,
they provide the basic essentials, a very warm welcome, and good security.
Lakes Ladoga and Onega, the two largest lakes in Europe, and the connecting River Svir, passing through beautiful and unspoilt countryside, offer a wonderful sailing experience. The Svir passes villages in virgin forest with no road connection, and the odd Soviet-style city with uniform blocks of flats. Lake Ladoga contains a magnificent monastery on Valaam, now returning to religious life. Lake Onega contains the jewel, Kizhi island, with its restored wooden churches and farmhouses, and pastures rich in wild flowers.
Once through the bridges of St. Petersburg, the River Neva (74 km, 40 NM) gives access to Lake Ladoga. This is connected to Lake Onega by the River Svir (224 km, 121NM) with two locks. Lake Onega gives access to Belomorsk on the White Sea to the North, and to Moscow and the Black Sea to the South. It is a major crossroads for shipping, and before long - it is hoped - for yachts too. Ships sailing from ports in Lakes Ladoga and Onega export timber to ports such as Montrose and import china clay from Fowey.
Russian charts are excellent and appear to agree well with the WSG84 datum used by GPS (except large scale charts of Lake Onega).
Russian Customs and Immigration are somewhat inflexible, but significantly improved between 1996 and 2000. Yachtsmen who are able to obey the rules precisely should have no problem. Unfortunately Russian yachts have been used to transfer illegal emigrants to other yachts, and the Coastguard are hot on this, giving problems to innocent foreign yachts, especially those entering by non-standard routes. A standard visa permits only one entry, so that if a yacht is forced back by weather, or has to shelter in the lee of an island, there may be difficulties. Many of these are caused by misunderstanding or mistranslation. It is necessary to be tolerant and patient!
The Gulf of Finland can be treacherous, but the shortest crossing, from the sheltered Finnish archipelago at Haapasaari to Russian Customs clearance at Fort Kostantin on Kronshtadt Island outside St. Petersburg, is only 80 NM. Passage westward is not advised with West winds exceeding Force 4 which give nasty seas. A daylight passage with look out for floating debris, especially logs, is advised. For those coming from Tallinn (180 NM), it is possible to stop over (adding 48 NM) at Narva-Jõesuu, on the Estonian side of the border with Russia. Several islands provide shelter, but the Russian Coastguard must be advised of the yacht's intentions before mooring there.
Reports from Kaliningrad, in marked contrast to St. Petersburg, describe it as "a drab testament to Soviet realism with its decaying concrete buildings and stark monuments". Sadly, it seems best to avoid calling there en route to St. Petersburg. It appears to have been denied the investment going into St. Petersburg and Moscow.
Russians have a different attitude towards toilet facilities to those of us from the West. They regard decorating (and cleaning?) loos as something of a fetish, although this attitude is changing in their homes. Once this is understood the loos become more tolerable!
Weather patterns and when to go
For a detailed description of weather patterns, see the Baltic Pilot Vol. 3. This shows that from April to August St. Petersburg averages 1 day of gale per month and from May to June only two days per month of fog. Prevailing wind direction is West and Northwest. Mean wind speed during summer months at 0800 is 7 knots and at 1400 is 9 - 10 knots. Winds in the Gulf of Finland have a significant effect on water level at St. Petersburg, which can fall or rise 1m overnight! This can be relevant, because the waters around the major Yacht Clubs are shallow. Mean daily maximum temperature is: May, 14°C; June, 19°C; July, 22°C; August 19°C; September, 14°C. As in most European countries, recent summers have been hotter than this. The River Neva, from St. Petersburg to Lake Ladoga, is usually ice-free from 25 April to 10 November. Both Lake Ladoga and Onega are subject to rough water in late summer storms, with swell up to 3.5 metres in a 17 m/sec wind. Graphs showing wave height for different wind conditions are given for every 10km along the commercial routes in the lakes in Tom (volume)1 of the series of Russian River Atlases.
St. Petersburg has international fame and is a major tourist attraction:
The Hermitage is arguably the world's finest museum and art gallery. The cathedrals are being restored to their former glory; the famous Church of the Saviour of Spilt Blood was reopened in August 1997 after 60 years closure. The world's largest fountain complex at Peterhof was restored in 1995, and can be reached by hydrofoil - or in 40 minutes by rail - or you can sail there.
Pushkin (30 minutes by rail) provides a rewarding day or half-day trip. The palace and grounds have been amazingly restored to their former glory following almost complete destruction when occupied by German forces in WW2.
St. Petersburg is a large city and the yacht clubs (except the former "Navy No 55") are rather far out. Few bicycles are seen, and as these are much sought-after and expensive in Russia, they are best left on board. Taxis are readily available in the city centre, and can be ordered from marina staff. Check the price first. The charge from the centre to the yacht clubs should not exceed USD5. Few taxi drivers know the yacht clubs, and they are not good at map reading, so you should follow their route on a map and help if necessary! Buses are cheap (Rb 5 or 12p from February 2002), slow and not too well cleaned. Recently conductors have been introduced on buses, trolleybuses and trams; they sell tickets valid for one trip. By contrast the Metro (also cheap, Rbs 6 for the entry token, any distance, 2002), is fast, frequent and clean. Maps on St. Petersburg Metro (but not Moscow) platforms show station names in both Cyrillic and Roman script.
To the north of Lake Ladoga, the Valaam religious archipelago may be visited by water (85 NM from where the Neva leaves Lake Ladoga). Following flight of the original monks to Finland when this area was transferred from Finland to Russia after WW2, and many years of neglect, the monastery is being renovated by a new generation of devout Russian monks. To the northeast of Lake Onega a visit to Kizhi Island is a must. It can be reached by yacht or hydrofoil from Petrozavodsk (about 40 NM). Kizhi has an ancient wooden cathedral and a number of farm houses, churches and granaries transplanted from other parts of Karelia.
Nightclubs, cafes and bars are quite safe (but it may be wise to take an expert's advice beforehand) in St. Petersburg as long as you remember to get back across the River Neva before the bridges open. Payment is always in Roubles. There are details of what's on in the St. Petersburg Times, a free English-language newspaper you can pick up at the international hotels. Also Pulse magazine. The Central River YC has its own inexpensive tented nightclub with striptease!
With continued controlled inflation the value of the Rouble is unstable. Many prices are therefore quoted in dollars, USD1 = 31.7 Rbls (1Rb=2.3p) in January 2003; it had been 5.2 July 1996, 5.75 in July 1997, 15 in November 1998; all these refer to the new heavy rouble which replaced 1000 old roubles on 1 January 1998. As a result things although more expensive in roubles are much cheaper in Dollars. Buses have gone up from Rbl 1 to 5 and a loaf of bread from Rbl 3 to Rbl10. (February 2002)
St. Petersburg has received enormous investment in restoration in recent years, although shortage of funds had slowed this in 1996. In 1996/2001 much progress was achieved. Foreign investment in infrastructure - such as mobile 'phone systems and cash dispensers - is providing some technological leapfrog.
St. Petersburg and Moscow are popular tourist destinations. Large (260-passenger) cruise ships ply between Moscow and St. Petersburg, calling at Valaam on Lake Ladoga and Kizhi and Petrozavodsk on Lake Onega. These cruises are regularly advertised in the British Sunday papers. A guide Russia by River written for those cruising is also useful to yachtsmen, and can be recommended.
The opening of inland waterways to foreign yachts in 1996 was a major milestone, and opens the route to the White Sea. To visit Moscow or the Mediterranean via the Volga and Black Sea it is still necessary to re-flag. Unfortuately the high charges introduced in May 1999 (still current 2002) and the need to carry a pilot at all times have effectively closed them again except to the wealthier yachtsman. A 50% discount may be offered to participants in the annual Blue Onego festival.
Customs and Immigration have become easier. The transfer of Customs from
St. Petersburg docks to Kronshlot in 1996 and to Fort Kostantin on
Kronshtadt Island in 1999 has been a great improvement, but procedures
still remain somewhat inflexible for the vagaries of yachtsmen and
weather.
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To obtain a visa each crew member will require an invitation by name
from an approved authority. Vladimir Ivankiv is able to arrange this for a
modest fee, see address at end. The request for an invitation by email
(preferred) or fax must state:
a) the name of the yacht
b) full name (surname last), address, DOB, nationality, passport number
and expiry date
c) the earliest date of arrival (you will not be admitted before this
date)
d) the latest date of departure (allow for weather and other
contingencies)
e) planned port of arrival and cities to be visited
f) fax number for return of invitation (yourself or an agency)
The invitation must then be taken to a Russian consulate, or faxed to a
passport/visa agency, together with the passport, one colour
passport-sized photographs, application form and fee ($30 for 8-10 day
service).
The use of an agent can save long queuing (4 hours in London in January 2003) and is well worthwhile; they need the completed visa form, one passport-sized photographs, passport and invitation from Russia. Scots can get their visas in 5 days from the consulate in Edinburgh without queuing. UK charges for a single-entry visa are
| Turn Round (days) | Consulate Charge UKP | Agency Charge (UKP) |
| sameday service | 90 | 60 + VAT |
| next-day service | 80 | 40 + VAT |
| 3/4 day service | 60 | 40 + VAT |
| 8/10 day | 30 | 40 + VAT |
Visas can be obtained in 5 days (or less by paying the surcharge) in Turku or Helsinki without queuing, and can be posted at an additional charge. We used the Turku Consulate in 1999 and had them mail the visas to Helsinki. I confirmed that this was still possible in 2002 but you should satisfy yourself that this is still permitted before committing to this. Telephone Helsinki Consulate on +358 9 661448.
The standard visa only permits a single entry; thus it is not possible to call at Kaliningrad on the way to St. Petersburg. A departing yacht which cleared a Russian port, and then returned with engine trouble, had considerable trouble with Customs. Yachts have also had trouble anchoring in the lee of an island after leaving St. Petersburg. A three times entry visa can be obtained which would cover this, also breaking cruise at Kalinigrad. A visa is not needed to use the Saimaa Canal. If entering St Petersburg from Vyborg make sure you have a second crew list stamped, and do not surrender your Visa, on leaving Vyborg. To make doubly certain advise the Coast Guard of your intended routing before leaving Vyborg. This also applies to approaching from Narva-Jõessu in Estonia.
If a crew change is planned in St. Petersburg, both incoming and outgoing crew should be included with the list sent to Ivankiv (but let him know what you are actually planning to do).
Insurance companies charge an extra premium for a yacht visiting Russia. If possible, shop around. For example, one company in 1996 not only charged an additional premium of £115 for a cruise into Russia but excluded theft while the yacht was unmanned, and increased the excess to £250; this exclusion was removed in 1997. Another merely doubled the excess from £100 to £200 for a cruise including St. Petersburg. But don't let this deter you! In 2000 we were obliged to take out a second insurance to use the RIWW.
Although there is a reciprocal health agreement between Britain and Russia, in practice it isn't so easy to get free health treatment; additional medical insurance including repatriation is therefore advisable. The authors (over 65) were charged £150 for two persons for one month.
For outpatient treatment it is easier for a foreigner to go to the American Medical Centre in St Petersburg; they also do dental treatment although it is available cheaper elsewhere.
You will need Crew Lists not only for Russia but also for Poland, the Baltic States and Finland. This should give registration details of the yacht, captain's name and date of birth, nationality, passport number and address, and for each crew member, name, date of birth, nationality and passport number.
In some countries (Poland, Lithuania, Latvia) two copies are demanded on entry at each port, so large numbers may be required!
Yachts continuing inland need an inspection (arranged by the Y.C. or G.I.M.S), including ships papers. G.I.M.S is at 50, Fontanka, St. Petersburg 191188, Tel: (812)-312-8015, Fax: (812)-312-7732.
Permission for pleasure craft to navigate on Russia's inland waterways - banned for commercial traffic to preclude competition to Russia's merchant navy - used to be given annually for a limited period. In mid-March 1998 came the news that the subject is now "in hands" of the Ministry of Transportation, not in Prime Minister's as it used to be, and that yachts may be free to navigate to the lakes Ladoga and Onega.
Take water containers (and, if you will need to drink Russian mains water, water-purifying tablets). Take egg boxes (eggs are still sold loose) and fuel containers, gifts, courtesy flag (buy in Helsinki - expensive - or make), spares (perhaps an additional GPS). Sewage holding tanks have not yet been heard of in Russia.
You will need Small Boat Chart Book (Småbåtssjökorten) Series A to navigate between Helsinki and Haapasaari or Hurpuu on Santio. BA Charts 2264 and 2395 are sufficient to get you to Passport Control at Kronstadt, and to the Naval YC via the main Morskoy Canal and through the docks (Ostrov Kanonerskiy) but not the other two Y.C. for which Russian Charts 25002 (1:25,000) or 25000 (1:50,000) are essential. The album of yacht charts "Eastern Part of the Gulf of Finland" has been discontinued. An excellent chart showing all the buoyed channels within the Nevskaya Guba is on the dKart web site.
If continuing inland on arrival in Russia you will need to borrow, hire
or purchase a copy of the excellent River Atlas for the Rivers Neva and
Svir. The Atlas costs 90 USD corrected or USD40 uncorrected, plus
shipping, but corrected charts can be hired from the Navigatiuon authority
(to whom you pay the inland waterway charges) for 15 USD per trip. Since
the Atlas charts for the lakes do not have Lat/Long scales it is advisable
to have Russian Charts 23020 for Lake Ladoga, and 23040, 23041 and 23042
for Lake Onega.Vladimir Ivankiv will arrange this for
you. Copies of the River Atlas and charts may be inspected in the
CA chart library.
Charts can be obtained from Troil Marin or Morintech. The price of paper Russian charts: up to 5 charts - 17 US$ 6-19 charts - 15 US$ 20 > charts - 13 US$. Hand correction per chart - 2 US$.
You will need Baltic Pilot Vol. III and The Baltic Sea, plus any others needed to reach the Gulf of Finland.
The Euro-City map of St. Petersburg (1:15,000) shows public transport routes including bus and tram stops. More general maps of Russia are hardly available outside Russia, but Stanfords sell a Russian Road Atlas (1:2,000,000) and aviation maps (1:1,000,000 and 1:500,000), see Bibliography.
Take Dollars and/or Dollar travellers cheques, but . These can be changed at many places in St. Petersburg and all banks in the larger towns without charge. Dollars are accepted for Yacht Club charges, and unofficially almost everywhere (strictly now illegal). Due to continuing inflation many prices are quoted in Dollars but only accepted in Roubles. Don't change more than you need, because Roubles outside Russia are worthless. Visa and other credit cards are not widely accepted, except in the international hotels and tourist stores. You can get either roubles or dollars from a cash dispenser with a Visa Card in St Petersburg (e.g. Mostbank, Nevsky Prospect). There are now any more bankomats than in 2000. It is also getting easier to pay with credit cards year after year.
On 1st January 1998 Russia introduced a new rouble (=1000 old roubles) so there are around 51 to the UK Pound (2003) and counting the noughts is easier!
Entry/exit formalities
Customs clearance from the Baltic into Russia is now at Fort Konstantin, which is in fact part of the dam; (In 2002 it was temporarily shifted and without notice to the Customs Quay (see below) but should be returned to Konstantin in 2003). It can be found by turning to port just after the Buoy 9 on the Morskoi "Canal" (the buoy is just about abeam of the dam), then you go 300 metres along the dam and find two floating constructions; one houses as a Customs/Immigration and the other a hotel, showers, toilets and a café. Since there is now a good road to St. Petersburg you may be able to arrange for Vladimir Ivankiv to meet you here. Clearance is straightforward, requiring a Crew List (two copies). (Yachts in ignorance of this Customs point have been able to clear at the Customs Quay close to St. Petersburg docks).
Use of Fort Konstantin for Customs clearance enables a direct route to be taken to the River Neva, Central River YC and Sea YC.
You can clear Customs outwards in the evening and stay overnight, but the guard may hold your passports until departure.
Crew will need passports and visas, and have to declare the amount of currency carried (by country) and their spirits, wine, beer, perfumes, cigars, cigarettes and tobacco; also the number of baggage items (!) They must certify that they are not carrying drugs or firearms. You cannot take (genuine) icons out of the country.
There have been no reports of problems on entry (other than delay). Because (single-entry) visas are taken away on leaving, yachts forced back by weather, or engine malfunction, are likely to experience problems.
English (British) Consulate: 5 Proletarskaja Dictatura Square, Tel: +7 (812)-320-3200, Fax: +7 (812)-320-3211. Consul General is Barbara Hay.
American Consulate: 15 Furshtatskaja Street, Tel: +7 (812)-275-1701, Fax: +7 (812)-110-7022
Dutch Embassy: Tel: +7 (812)-312-0338, Fax: +7 (812)-314-8188
From Kronshlot to the St. Petersburg Yacht Clubs
The easiest departure point for yachts coming from the UK via Finland is the Finnish Customs station on Haapasaari (60º 17.2'N 27º 11.2'E) , 75 NM from Helsinki, where you can stay overnight free. The most Easterly departure point in Finland is actually Hurpuu on Santio (60º 27.3'N 27º 43.5'E). A convenient point to fill up with diesel, water and provisions is at Pellinki (60º 14'N 25º 50'E) or, with some diversion, Kotka.
A leaflet is available listing the Finnish Customs clearance points; clearance can no longer be obtained by VHF. The Finnish/Russian border is still a sensitive area.
Leaving Haapasaari - and after clearing outlying rocky islands - make either for:
Buoy No 14 on the Finland/Russia buoyed border (at 60º 15.2'N 27º 30.5'E), go North of Ostrov Sommers and its associated dramatic wreck and set a direct course to the St. Petersburgskiy fairway buoy at 60º 1.60'N 29º 26.00'E, or
Buoy No 15 (at 60º 13.5'N 27º 27.5'E), go South of Ostrov Sommers and follow the South edge of the Eastbound shipping lane to the St Petersburgskiy fairway buoy.
A Russian border patrol craft may approach closely at some stage (cost-saving curbed their activity in 1997). To the North of Buoy 14 and South of Buoy 15 there are prohibited Russian fishing areas.
Yachts that have run into bad weather here have been boarded by Russia patrols and escorted to sheltered water. The action was undoubtedly in their best interest but some have naively misunderstood this and been alarmed. In bad weather, a Mayday call by one yacht was answered by Alexander Maximadji of the Sea YC, who coordinated rescue.
Coming up the Baltic States a good entry route is from Tallinn (with its modern marina at Pirita), where Estonian Customs must be cleared, to Kronshlot (180 NM). Alternatively, it may be more convenient to break the leg from Tallinn optionally at Vergi (a brand new marina at 59º 36.0'N 26º 6.0'E with good leading lights) and mandatorily at Narva-Jõesuu (= mouth of R Narva) at 59° 28.1'N 28° 02.6'E on the Estonian side of the border with Russia; take care in identifying the two sets of leading lights at the river entrance. Yachts may over-night at the Customs quay and visit the town (fine castle dramatically overlooking swift-flowing Narva deep below, with corresponding castle on inaccesible Russian side of river). Some complications may arise in the area close to the Russian-Estonian border. One should be careful not to cross the border twice to avoid immediate contact with a Russian patrol boat, and thus paying a fine for entering Russian waters for the second time with a single entry visa. From Tallinn to Narva-Jõesuu is about 123 NM. From Narva-Jõesuu to Fort Konstantin is about 105 NM. Thus this diversion adds 48 NM.
NB The unlit buoys shown on BA2264 and 1997 Ed of Estonian 502 have all been removed. These routings require reliable GPS sets, corrected charts BA2248 and BA2264 (or Estonian 504 and 502), good weather, and competent and responsible navigation. Clearance margins should be increased if in any doubt.
Streams
Being tideless there are no tidal streams, but other factors may affect the depth of water in the port and estuary. In most cases, water level fluctuation depends on wind from the West.
In the outer Southern part of the estuary the general direction of the current is west (0.2 to 1.5 knots). During and after heavy rain and strong Easterly winds there is an outgoing current in the river. This soon becomes lost and has no effect in the estuary. Towards the sides of fairways there may be eddies, especially off projecting points of the sands, shoals and dams.
Air service is available to and from St. Petersburg:
Pulkovo - 1 (Tel: +7 (812) 104 3822) for domestic flights and
Pulkovo - 2 (Tel: +7 (812)104 3444) for international flights.
Rail (Tel: +7 (812)-168-0111) to Vyborg (2h 25m) or overnight to Petrozavodsk or Moscow.
From Kronshlot to the St. Petersburg Yacht Clubs
CAUTION! Waters outside the dredged Morsky canal (channel) are generally shallow and subject to reduction in depth of around 1 metre with East winds (and increase with West winds). It is therefore necessary to follow the channels (which are not well marked) carefully, proceed cautiously and use GPS waypoints throughout.
To reach the Central River YC (CRYC) and St. Petersburg Sea YC (SPSYC) take the St. Petersburg Morskoy Kanal from Kronshtadt to Buoy 33 (at 59º 55.17'N 30º 0.60'E) then 060º to the fairway buoy (at 59º 56.00'N 30º 3.70'E), thence 065º to Buoy '2' (at 59º 57.23'N 30º 9.03'E). A well-buoyed channel with leading marks (red lights) on Ostrov Krestovskiy is then followed.
For the CRYC leave this channel at 59º 58.10'N 30º 12.84'E; a direct route is then taken to the North-facing opening of the marina basin overlooked by the huge, conspicuous and futuristic YC building.
For the SPSYC leave the channel at 59º 57.93'N 30º 12.13'E. A Northward (006º) track is then taken, with green buoys to port. To the West of these a submerged pipe - shown on chart 25002 only - is a hazard. At 59º 58.41'N make a turn to starboard on 060º to 59º 58.66'N 30º 13.06'E, about 100m off the NW corner of O. Krestovskiy. Thence follow a bearing of 078º for the centre of O. Jelagin, before taking the right fork into Srednyaya Nevka. The (former) BSCYC marina is 500m on the starboard side, just after the impressive club building.
For the Navy YC take the Morskoy Kanal from Kronshtadt right into St Petersburg. Take the left fork into Ostrov Kanonerskiy, and follow it to the northern exit. Then take a 060° heading until the leading lights (312.2° - 132.2°) are directly astern at about 59º 55.06'N 30º 15.11'E. Then take a 312.2º course past the passenger pier and N into the Navy No.55 YC.
There are three major yacht clubs, but no longer with permits allowing them to invite foreign yachts, which can be arranged through Vladimit Ivankiv. Each club has advantages and disadvantages but the Central River YC is recommended for your first visit. Yachtsmen, especially ex-RN, are made most welcome at the Navy YC, which has limited space but will clear an alongside berth for visitors. Large (over 10 m) or deep-draught (over 2 m) yachts will find the Central River YC most convenient because alongside berthing is possible inside the outer mole.
Central River YC (Definitely recommended for first visit unless you have specific invitations from the other Clubs).
Coordinates: 59º 57.9'N 30º 14.4'E
Contact: Vladimir Ivankiv, Cruising
Association Honorary Local Representative (speaks English
fluently).
St. Petersburg Rechnoi Yacht Club
Petrovskaya Kosa 9
197042 St. Petersburg
YC Telephone: 235-0447
YC Fax:none
Home 'phone (and fax, but make prior phone call):510 7602 Email:
vliv@medport.ru
Simple access. Recommended for large and/or deep draught craft. Mooring is bows-on to pontoons from stern buoys. Large craft can lie on T-ends of jetties in river. Vladimir Ivankiv, CA HLR, is extremely helpful, looks after CA, RCC and Swedish YC members very diligently and efficiently. He will also arrange secure berthing for them beside the Harbour Master's office, which is manned 24 hours a day. Since 1996 security has been improved with guards on the main gates. This club has the most foreign visitors but fewest active Russian yachts. Many dinghies and youth training boats. Water taps are adjacent to the pontoons. Electricity (220V, 2-pin continental). Barely adequately cleaned and rather smelly WC's. Showers refurbished in 2000. Restaurant refurbished 2000. Kiosk with B-B-Q. Few resident boats in 2001 (and therefore plenty of space). Sauna may be available in a nearby GRP repair facility. Crane (12.5 tonne) can be used for lowering masts. Excellent repair facilities and sail loft. Easy access to town with a frequent service and single trolleybus ride. Number 7, which terminates 500m away, goes direct to Nevsky Prospect. The new Metro station is within 15 minutes walk. The charge in 2002 is $1 per metre per night up to 20 metres, then £2 per metre per night. The club is owned by trade unions, and is also heavily involved with dinghy sailing for young people.
St. Petersburg Sea YC (Formerly Baltic Shipping Co. YC.)
Coordinates: 59º 58.6'N 30º 14.9'E
Manager: Andre Dersash Telephone/fax:230-7585 Contact: Tatiana Bykova (speaks English well) Mobile: 966-2601
St. Petersburg Sea Yacht Club
Nab. Martynova
197047 St. Petersburg
From 2002 this has become a smart motoryacht harbour with excellent facilities, but is still believed to welcome a few visiting yachts. Trickiest access due to shallow water and minimal buoyage; by prior arrangement and/or VHF contact with the Club, the Club will send out a launch to guide you through the shallow approach. With strong East winds the maximum depth is only 2.5 metres, but the deep water difficult to find. Mooring is bows-on to a pontoon from buoys (some of which are about 30m from the pontoon, so need long warps). Rather crowded. Water taps are adjacent to pontoons. Electricity (220V, 2-pin continental). Adequately cleaned WC's. Sauna and one shower (for foreign visitors). Friendly restaurant and bar. Chandlery. Crane. Perimeter fence with 24 hour guard and dogs. There are always other yachtsmen around who will keep an eye on your boat, so one feels secure and welcome here. Several shops including baker, chemist, etc. at 1 km. Attractive surroundings between river, Olympic rowing lake and park. Winter storage facilities. Tatiana Bykova has an office within the building, mainly helps German visitors, and is most helpful. The charge in 2002 is $3 per metre per night; in view of improved facilities this may increase. This is the most remote of the three clubs. To get into town take a 71 bus (every 30/40 minutes) to Petrogradskaja Metro station, then take the Metro to Nevsky Prospect.
Navy No.55 YC.
Coordinates: 59º 56.0'N 30º 14.1'E
Manager: Captain Nicolai Balashov Telephone/fax: 230-7585 Contact: Andre Berezhkin (speaks English well). Telephone: 273-3663 (office),213-4022 (home) Fax: 095-351-1306
Deep water access. Very small. All visitors, especially ex-RN members,
are made very welcome. Mooring is generally stern-on to pontoons from
buoys but visitors given alongside berth in view of 24-hour security.
Water taps are adjacent to the pontoons. Electricity (220V, 2-pin
continental). No showers, and toilets in office block (men ground floor,
women first floor) are basic. Small shop opposite and good local shops 5
minutes. Markets at Primorskaya metro and Bolshoi Prospect. International
card phone corner of Nalichaya Ulitsa and Shkipersky Pereulok nearby. No.
10 trolleybus from nearby Shkiperskij goes full length of Nevsky Prospect
and make this the marina with best communications; when alighting in
Skiperskij look out for large blue shed and submarine on left hand side.
Crane suitable for lowering masts. Diesel.
There are great plans for extensively modernizing this yacht club, but no
date for commencement has been announced by January 2003.
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Language presents a special problem in that the Cyrillic alphabet is not easily mastered. Fortunately many signs are in both Cyrillic and Roman alphabets, while an increasing number of notices are in Russian and English. There are two alternative ways in which the Cyrillic alphabet is transliterated into Roman alphabet: to show how they are spelt (which gives a unique Roman spelling); or to show how they are pronounced (which can give different spellings). Since this guide derives names from many sources it cannot be consistent, but spellings are taken from maps and charts where possible.
Learning a few Russian words and phrases will add to your enjoyment and speed friendships, but you will have to rely on English for serious communication. All Russian ships will have an English speaker, Customs and Immigration parties always include an English speaker, the patrol boats and Coast Guard speak limited English, the Yacht Club contacts speak good English, your River Pilot (if continuing beyond St. Petersburg) will speak English, most yachts will have one or more English speakers, and English-speaking guides are available at the major tourist attractions.
Any vessel requiring emergency assistance should call PETERSBURG RADIO 12 on Channels 16 or 71 with Vessel's name, location if known, nature of emergency, type of assistance required, number of casualties if any, and whether an interpreter is required.
Channel 16 is normal for calling (but not on inland waterways, see below). Channel 6 is used for inter-ship. The Pilot Station operates on Channels 16, 9 and 20 (Call Petersburg Pilot). The Harbour Master operates on Channels 16, 9, 67 and 20 (Call Petersburg Radio Five). On Inland Waterways you will be required to carry a hand-held VHF River Radio "Volzhanka" type, with about 5 channels, to talk to the St. Petersburg Bridge Controller, ensure that two ships do not meet in the one-way stretches (not applicable to yachts who can keep to shallower water), and talk to lock and bridge keepers (in Russian!). Pilots do not carry their own radios, but these may be hired from the waterway authority at UDD 2 per day.
International calls may be made from major hotels in St. Petersburg, outdoor cardphones in St. Petersburg (cards cost $20 but do not last long)and from the Central River YC ($2/min). GSM is already available through Cellnet and Vodafone in St. Petersburg and up the Neva to Petrokrepost, in Petrozavodsk and of course Moscow. This is by far the best means of communication for those who have mobile phones. It is necessary to ensure that the roaming facility is enabled before leaving the UK. It is necessary to precede local numbers with '8' and '812' for St. Petersburg numbers and international numbers with '810' followed by country code. All numbers in this guide are St. Petersburg 812 unless otherwise stated.
Callers from the UK can call you at the standard mobile call charges but you will incur the cost of the call from UK to Russia. (See also under Yacht Clubs.) Outside St. Petersburg, calls can be placed at telegraph offices, but a knowledge of Russian is required.
Local time in Summer is GMT + 4 hours.
Ensigns should be hoisted at 0800 and lowered at sunset, but yachtsmen except in the Navy clubs rarely do this. A Red Ensign (well known) is to be preferred to a defaced Blue Ensign, which is usually mistaken for New Zealand.
En route to St. Petersburg, Navtex forecasts from Helsinki and Tallinn are excellent. The use of Navtex is strongly recommended in both the Baltic (forecasts and gale warnings from Stockholm) and the Gulf of Finland (forecasts and gale warnings from Tallinn). Navtex reception is patchy within Russia (and Archangel does not include forecasts), but local yachtsmen or the Yacht Clubs will be pleased to give you a Russian-sourced forecast.
Local forecasts for the St. Petersburg harbour area are available from the St. Petersburg Pilot Station on VHF channels 16, 09, 20.
The Coast Guard station at Voznesen'e where the River Svir leaves Lake Onega will provide a written 24-hour forecast in English, giving wind information and wave height. Coast Guards will also give a forecast on Channel 16, but with possible language difficulties.
Crimes against foreigners in Russia are newsworthy. In London and New York they are not. You are probably as safe in St. Petersburg as in London or New York, but in all cities precautions should be taken. Dress inconspicuously. You are advised however to walk in pairs as cases of mugging of foreigners have been reported. You are undoubtedly safer on the water than on roads. Keep your wallet in an inside pocket, or use a money belt. Do not dangle a mobile phone from your belt. Look out especially for gypsy childen who are very light-fingered! The yacht clubs themselves have good security with 24-hour guards.
We must record one incident on the way to Moscow at Kalazin [259 km] when rather drunken youngsters tried to board us from a speedboat and demanded money or drink; our elderly Russian managed to talk them out of this. On the White Sea canal when at anchor a motorboat with drunken crew demanded petrol and could not accept that we didn't have any; eventually they gave up and powered off into the twilight to try a moored ship! However it is recommended that a young macho Russian be carried on canal sections and River Volga, or that yachts travel in pairs.
In all three St. Petersburg YC's and Navy No.1 Club in Moscow we felt as secure as we do in a London marina, and were confident in leaving our yacht unattended. The Central River YC has improved its security since 1996 and is now quite as good as the St. Petersburg Sea YC and former Navy 55 YC. We felt secure, too, in Petrozavodsk and while moored against alongside Russian ships. The risks in Kaliningrad (see note in Introduction) may be significant.
Navigation inland to Petrozavodsk and the White Sea
The passage from St. Petersburg to Petrozavodsk is about 330 NM and comprises five sections: negotiation of the opening bridges in St. Petersburg by night (or by day if your mast can be lowered); the River Neva to Petrokrepost; Lake Ladoga to Sviritsa; the River Svir to Voznesen'e; and Lake Onega to Petrozavodsk.
It is now necessary to carry, accommodate, feed and pay (USD2.3 per hour) a Transit Pilot on board on the RIWW. One pilot may be shared between up to 5 yachts in which case all pay 50% of the charge. Arrangements should be made well in advance through Vladimir Ivankiv, the Cruising Association's Honorary Local Representative). A schedule of charges is attached. These were still applicable in 2003 and resulted in no (zero) inland cruising by foreign yachts in 2002. A reduction may be available for yachts attending the Blue Onego Festival in Petrovavodsk 27-29 June 2003 Contact Vladimir Gromov at gromovvv@onego.ru.
An alternative approach, necessary in any case for the canals and rivers south of Lake Onega, is to reflag as a Russian yacht and to charter your yacht to a Russian skipper with ther equivalent of Yachtmaster qualification.. We did this to visit Moscow in 1996 (our charter documentation has been used since) and Barry Woodhouse in 2000 to go down the Volga and Don. Our insurance company was happy with this arrangement, but obviously they must be asked to agree. Vladimir Ivankiv will help to arrange for the necessary inspection (to allow the yacht into inland waterways) and for an English-speaking pilot (USD115 each way, but special inclusive charges may be available to participants in Blue Onego Festivals). They may also be borrow a River Atlas, and the loan or purchase of charts for the lakes. The River Atlas Tom 3 covers the entire passage from St. Petersburg to Voznesen'e. Distances are shown in km from Moscow and printed in square brackets, thus:[1385].
The inspection seems perfunctory, mainly of the ship's papers, but the inspector is probably well capable of judging a yacht's river-worthiness. The inspection is likely to become more severe. Yachtsmen had to claim to be able to do 10 knots in 1996 (but not in 1997 at G.I.M.S.)- which is the speed used by the ships proceeding through the bridges - but the pilot must be told the true maximum speed. It is probably impracticable to make the up-stream mast-up passage with less than 6 knots available unless a tow is arranged through the rapids.
This problem can be avoided by lowering your mast (all three YC's have cranes, the Navy YC being cheapest) and raising it again after passing the last bridge. We saw a high-level footbridge across the Tosna river being used for this purpose, on the South side at [1344], 24 km beyond the last St. Petersburg bridge. A floating crane normally located in the canal, or at the ship's repair plant, in Petrokrepost will also set masts. Of course, the mast can be left lowered throughout, but this would preclude sailing across the lakes, and can make motoring uncomfortable in rough lake conditions. Without a mast, the passage through the city can be made at leisure without the presence of ships - and one can also photograph the beautiful waterfront buildings.
The bridges open between 0200 and 0400 (when it is quite light with the White Nights in June and July), and a river pilot is not only mandatory but essential, as he has to know the sequence of all the ships proceeding in your direction, talk to them (VHF Channel 8), and arrange for them to overtake you between bridges. Ships are also liable to join in the convoy from points between bridges. Going up-stream you can enter from Bol'saja (Big) Neva or Malaja (Little) Neva (most suitable from the StP CRYC or StP SYC) and will have to run flat-out for an hour, wait at stream-speed for a period while the down-stream ships pass, and continue fast through the last two bridges. By contrast going down-stream is a doddle.
Yachts are required to carry a handheld VHF River Radio with about 5 channels (around 300 MHz). See under "VHF".
Yachts whose mast height exceeds 14.9 metres need to give 24-hour notice
to the lifting bridges on the rivers Neva and Svir. Masts can be raised or
lowered by highly qualified crane operators at Sviritsa and Voznesenie
Bridges from Malaya Neva, [distances (km)] from Moscow and opening times.
For latest times see www.petersburgonline.ru/page_15.phtml?link=37 and note column headings translate as (left to right) Bridge, River, Drawing, Stop (road) Traffic, Start Navigation, Stop Navigation, Start Traffic. (added 27/5/02)
| Bridge | Distance | Opening Times* |
| Waiting Berth (Starboard) | [1384.9] | |
| (1) Tuchkov | [1384.4] | 0225-0315, 0345-0435 |
| (2) Birzhevoi | [1383.3] | 0230-0315, 0345-0435 |
| Peter and Paul Fortress(Port) | [1382.5] | |
| (3) Troitsky | [1382.0] | 0200-0445 |
| (4) Liteiny | [1380.6] | 0215-0430 |
| Smolny Cathedral (Starboard) | [1376.6] | |
| (5) Peter the Great | [1376.0] | 0240-0445 |
| (6) Alexandra Nevskovo | [1374.0] | 0340-0445 |
| (7) Finlandia (railway) | [1372.6] | 0240-0450 |
| (8) Volodarsky | [1367.6] | 0205-0345, 0430-0540 |
| Alongside Berth (Port) | [1365.7] | |
| Bridges from Bol Neva | ||
| (1) Lieutenant Schmit | [1384.5] | 0155-0255, 0315-0450 |
| (2) Dvortsovoy | [1383.3] | 0155-0305, 0315-0445 |
* Opening commences 5 minutes before, and closing completes 5
minutes after, the times shown.
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The River Neva, from St. Petersburg to Petrokrepost on Lake Ladoga, is 73 km (about 50 NM). It is usually ice-free from 25 April to 10 November. River Atlas Tom 3 covers the river with plans at 1:10,000. The navigable channel of the Neva is well marked with numbered red port buoys and white starboard buoys, and has leading marks and lights for almost every section of its winding course. Night navigation is permitted by yachts, but not through locks. Ships, constrained by their draft, must be allowed to keep on the leading lines. The Neva flows at about 1.5 - 2 knots during the summer but reaches 7.5-10km/hour (3 - 4 knots) during the summerat Ivanovskiye Paroge Rapids at 59º 46'N 30º 46'E [1343.5]. In full flood the river reaches 12km/hour at this point. Below this the routing marked by slender red spar buoys gives a weaker stream and should be used going upstream. There are few stopping places on the Neva. There is a lifting bridge, alarmingly labelled 12.5, but with actual clearance of 14.9 m, called Kuz'minskii Mosm (bridge) at 59º 48.8'N 30º 51'E [1336.5] and another, called Ladozhskii Mosm, at 59º 34.3'N 30º 59.2 E [1321.6].
Approaching ships may show a bright white strobe light from the extreme port wing of their bridge to indicate normal port-to-port passing. A suitably equipped ship responds accordingly. Technically yachts should display a white flag 0.5 by 0.5 m, but we have never seen this in practice. Exceptionally the light may be shown on the starboard end of the approaching ship's bridge for a starboard-to-starboard passing.
The Neva joins Lake Ladoga at Petrokrepost, where it is possible to moor in static water on the S side [1316] in the entrance to the "new" canal. This canal circumnavigates Lake Ladoga to the S and provides an alternative route for fishing boats with 2-3 m draft and small air draft. It appears to be little used as a through route. The mouth of the Neva is guarded by an ancient fort (being painstakingly restored) on a little island to the S of the channel.
Petrokrepost has many shops and a covered market, mostly on a road running south from the two churches (along the old canal). P.O. Bank. Telephone Office now in hotel. Large floating crane with two resident skilled operators in new canal can raise or lower masts; negotiated Rbs 100 (new) for raising two masts in 1997.
This is Europe's largest, but little known, lake. It is 110 NM from N to S, and 70 NM from W to E, 18,400 km² in area and 4 m ASL. Ladoga is shoal to the S, but 215 m at its deepest point. The crossing of Lake Ladoga from Petrokrepost [1316] to Sviritsa [1160] is 156 km (84 NM). The River Atlas contains a chart of the relevant southern portion of the lake at 1:250,000, and of the approaches to Petrokrepost (dredged buoyed channel, with shallow water either side) and to Sviritsa at 1:10,000. This chart lacks Latitude and Longitude scales, so Chart 22020 (covering the entire lake at 1:250,000) is needed to take advantage of GPS. The chart is adequate for crossing the lake to visit the Valaam religious archipelago, but for the final approach the 1:100,000 chart 23032 (of NW Ladoga with inset chart at 1:10,000 of Valaam) is needed. The archipelagos in the north are quite as beautiful as those of Scandinavia but offer in addition a wealth of history, and would justify a full week or more.
For warning on rough sea, see Weather patterns and when to go. The authors visited two places: Valaam at 61º 23.8'N 30º 55.9'E. Chartlet A at 1:10,000 on 23032 shows the winding entrance to the pool below the main monastry of Valaam. Leading marks make this a safe entrance but once inside cardinals must be carefully observed. There are two anchorages but yachts can moor with stern anchor bows-on to a staging on the little Nikol'skiy island on which stands the leading mark and lighthouse; round the west and south cardinals to reach this. This island has a magnificent church and is connected to the main island by bridges. The Transfiguration Monastery has a fine iconostasis; ladies must wear skirts, and men trousers, in the church. The cruise ships moor in Nikon's Bay below Krasn'iy Skit church (Chartlet b), passengers rarely having time to reach the real monastery. Russian yachts were seen at anchor between the beautiful Baionnoy and Pembach islands to the east of the Valaam archipelago.
Priozersk at 61º 02.7'N 3º 10.5'E on west coast. Chartlet B on 23032 shows the well marked entrance (tho' enter by daylight) to mouth of river Vyoksa with well sheltered marina on south side. Great welcome.
The River Svir, from Lake Ladoga to Lake Onega, is 218 km (117 NM). It has two locks and one opening bridge. Like the Neva, it is excellently buoyed (more necessary on the Svir above locks, where large floodlands adjoin the deep channel) and equipped with leading marks. In some cases the leading marks are very distant and must be checked with binoculars. Beware of lining up a sunlit front leading mark with its reflection instead of its shadowed back mark! These leading marks are clearer at night when they are lit.
It is possible to berth in Sviritsa on a semi-derelict coal jetty in the entrance (east side), marked by a white monument to the canal to Petrokrepost (or, better, alongside a ship using this jetty). Other jetties in Sviritsa are in a worse state and are untenable for yachts. (The Rules of Navigation on the IWW of RF state that jetties or piers are forbidden to yachts. Yachts are expected to anchor and go ashore by dinghy). A pontoon bridge across the canal leads to the village,with several shops.
The locks are at Svirstoy (60º 45.9'N 33º 42.0'E) [1088.5] with 12.2 m rise and at Podpororozh'ye (60º 55.7'N 34º 9.0'E) [1043] with 15 m rise. Each lock has an associated swing bridge and hydroelectric power station. The locks are 281 m (upper) and 198 m (lower) long by 21.5 m wide. The upper lock has a swing bridge below with 13.7 m headroom when closed. They fill and empty through grilles in the bottom with negligible turbulence, but the wash from the propeller of a ship when starting can be severe. The drill in locks is to make fast with fore and aft lines to a single floating bollard (they are too far apart to use two) and to adjust these lines to remain parallel with the lock wall. You may be able to communicate with the lock keeper in advance by using a ship or tug with English-speaking personnel as intermediaries, but calling in English at least alerts them of your approach and that it will not be possible for them to communicate with you.
There are two steel girder lifting bridges; Lodeinopos'skii at 60º 44.7'N 33º 36.2'E [1098.4] and a railway bridge at 60º 55.6'N 34º 6.4'E [1047.4], each with a listed clearance of 14.9 m. The air draft posted on the bridges is measured from a datum between red and white bands painted on piers, generally well above water level.
There are many stopping places on the River Svir. Unfortunately most of the former wooden river-bus landing stages for the attractive villages have not been maintained since this service ceased many years ago, and are becoming derelict with unpleasant protruding nails, etc.. Careful positioning of fenders in necessary, bearing in mind wash from ships. Some jetties are totally derelict and useless. A good jetty is at Pid'ma (61º 58.2'N 34º 39.7'E) [1014]; a pretty village with a large abandoned school building, and a population of 40 retired people plus some dachas. No shops! But see above note forbidding yachts use of jetties. All Russian yachts anchor; this ensures good security.
A less attractive feature of the Svir floodlands are the flooded forests which make straying off the original river course dangerous in places. These trees are slowly rotting and occasionally float away.
Lake Onega is Europe's second largest lake. The lake is 134 NM from N to S, and 48 NM from W to E, 9,890 km² in area and 32 m ASL. River Atlas Vol. 4 contains a chart at 1:400,000 and gives the outlines of some 24 further nautical charts. Keep well clear of the designated fishing areas, as nets are unbuoyed and have small floats.
For warning on rough sea see Weather patterns and when to go
Having cleared the mouth of the Svir and the fairway buoy, using the River Atlas, the passage to Petrozavodsk - about 60 NM N on the W coast of Lake Onega - is straightforward. You will need Charts 23040 (S portion) and 23041 (S central portion). Small and well-sheltered places for intermediate stops or refuge (recommended by a local Captain) are at:
Ribreka at 61º 17.6'N 35º 32.3'E. A small working harbour serving a quarry with good quay and small village (no shop evident). good leading marks (87º -267º). Local youngsters remembered Miles Clark's Wild Goose stopping here!
Brusno Island, with light house and anchorage SW at around 61º 27.8'N 35º16.3'E.
Shoksha at 61º 30.5'N 35º03.7'E. A former working harbour serving quarries. Porphory, a semi-precious stone, was shipped from here to line St. Isaac's Cathedral at St. Petersburg in 1841. Ensure that the N cardinal at 61º 27.8'N 35º16.3'E is cleared, because there are fishing nets in the area. Now (1997) within a designated fishing area
Petrozavodsk is the major port and city on Lake Onega, with passenger pier, commercial harbour, private marina and warm welcome waiting at the Maritime Historical-Cultural Centre:
Coordinates: 61º 43'N 34º 25'E
Contact:Victor Dmitriev, President (little English).
Republic of Karelia Maritime Historical-Cultural Centre
P/B 38, Rigachina 37b
Petrozavodsk,
Republic of Karelia
Russia 185005
Telephone: 007-81422-51929
Fax: 007-81322-61694
E-mail: Ruzanova@mainpgu.karelia.ru
This Centre has a floating office building where a single yacht can moor alongside. They will provide electricity. There is a larger harbour adjacent formed with anchored barges as breakwaters. You can be assured of every assistance during your stay. Historical ships stand within its grounds, and fine wooden ships are generally under construction in large sheds. A magnificent club hall and bar are housed in the hold of a ship moored alongside. Diesel is available from a garage (about 500m.) There are excellent shops and banks in town (about 2 km - cycling seems safe here, but take your bikes into the shops) and a local baker. A taxi into town costs foreigners about USD5, but you can probably negotiate a lower charge. Although the gate is not regularly guarded, and not locked at night, there are plenty of people around to provide security by day. The lake water is very clean for swimming.
Kizhi A visit to this fabulous heritage island at 61º 04.9'N 35º 12.5'E in the archipelago is a "must". The hydrofoil takes about one hour (with one intermediate stop) and costs USD20 return. If there is time sail (about 40 NM from Petrozavodsk) and stay overnight and return direct to the River Svir, or go en route to Povonets. Charts 23041 and 28095 are necessary.
Vitegra. Good leading marks. Take left fork at fuel depot and berth alongside concrete quay at 61º 0.6'N 36º26.1'E. Excellent drinking water from spring nearby between river and road. Shops. Covered and open market. Bank. P.O. Telephone office.
River Vodla. A broad river estuary on east coast with excellent leading lights and least depth 4 m. We were welcomed to moor bows-on to the small private jetty of a Russian family at 62º 5.1'N 35º12.2'E. Good general store. Chart 25077 desirable. Useful stop-over before visting Kizhi adventurously from north.
Povenets A small town close to the S entrance (62º 50'N 34º 51'E) to the canal leading to the White Sea at Belomorsk. Coming from Kizhi you will need charts 28095, 23042, (ideally 28097 as well), 23053 and 25086.
Belomorsk Canal
This canal connects Lake Onega at Povenets to the White Sea at
Belomorsk, passing through the attractive Lake Vygozero. Five boats taking
part in the CA's Baltic Millennium Rally passed through in 2000. River
Atlas Vol. 4 is required, covering the canal sections at 1:10,000 and
including a pull-out chart of Lake Vygozero at 1:75,000 and its
archipelago in the N at 1:25,000. The overall distance is 220 km, of which
87 km is along Lake Vygozero. Locks are about 130 by 20 m. The navigable
channel is well marked with buoys and leading marks.
From Povonets the 22.5 km summit lake at 72 m ASL is reached through six
double locks and one deep (10 m) single lock over only 10 km. The water in
the summit pound is clear but brown, through which swimming bodies appear
red! After a further 12.6 km a double lock descends to Lake Vygozero. From
here the canal descends through 10 locks, mostly between small lakes - but
pure canal between 12 and 13, and 14 and 15 - spread over 96 km (Double
Lock 10 [1246], double Lock 11 [1255], single lock 12 [1289], double lock
13 [1294.5], double lock 14 [1312.2], double lock 15 [1315.2], double lock
16 [1325.5], single lock 17 [1326.8], single lock 18 [1329.8], single sea
lock 19 [1334.5]), reaching into the White Sea via a dredged and buoyed
channel to Buoys 1 and 2 at [1342.5]. Locks 10, 11 and 12 are either being
reconstructed or are lined with rough timbers and do not have floating
bollards, but staff help with lines.
There are two bridges:
an opening bridge, headroom 12.2 m unopened and 36 m open, at [1330.6] and fixed bridge, 50 m at [1331.7].
The Canal enters the White Sea about 2km south of Belomorsk, where there there are indoor and covered markets and a bank. The petroglyphs, pictures engraved on granite some 5000 years ago, are well worth visiting. See them at http://rockart.onego.ru/english/index.html but you have to use the Russian version for the pictures. There is a floating museum of local culture at the village by the sea lock, and a small shop. Diesel delivered by arrangement. Water claimed drinkable.
All essential foods are available, generally significantly cheaper than at home. Even imported foods are no more expensive than in the UK due to lower retail margins. Most Russians in towns buy UHT milk in cartons; "fresh" milk tends to be imported from Estonia and can be bad on purchase due to inadequate storage. In villages milk may be bought from churns (take your own container), but will not be pasteurised, and butter cut from huge slabs. Bread varies widely, but can be very good, the price giving some guidance. Fish is excellent. Cakes tend to be a bit sweet and bland. The hard round glazed cinnamon cakes called Pryanika are delicious and keep well. Biscuits bought loose are inexpensive and can be very good.
Except in St Petersburg and Moscow Russian shops are 50 years behind the West, but fun given patience. You need to queue first at a counter to decide what you want; the assistant will then write the total cost on a scrap of paper which you take to the cash desk, pay and obtain a receipt. You then queue again and exchange the receipt for goods. This is repeated at each counter (e.g. dairy, meat, beer, grocery, bread). They often use an abacus to add up costs and display the total (for non-Russian speakers) on a calculator!
Contrary to reputation, vodka is not much in evidence, at least in yacht clubs, except for celebrations, e.g. Navy Day and River Day. Bottled beer, especially Baltika, is the popular drink, but does not keep well. Nevskoye beer is more expensive, is served at the YCs, and keeps well. The traditional soft drink Kvas, made by fermenting rye bread, is now available carbonated in cola-like bottles.
Yachtsmen are often advised (in England) against drinking local water unless boiled, due to alleged biological contamination, although water from central Lake Onega is supposed to be very good; the BMR rally boats all refilled in mid-lake. Ivankiv can arrange water in 25 litre returnable containers. Good bottled water is readily available. By turning off the electric pump, and getting crew to use local water for washing, it should be possible to conserve enough "foreign" water for 3 - 4 weeks. Excellent spring water is available in several places.
Alternatively water purifying tablets could be added to cans of local water.
Diesel is available from garages (Rb2/litre or 10cents/l in December 1998), bunker barges in the River Svir, and moored ships (offer Rb1 to 1.5/litre) who will be pleased to help carry your cans. Most berthed ships or floating cranes have someone who speaks English well - and enjoys using it - so you should have no problem in getting cans filled. Marine diesel is uncoloured and appears to be of uniformly very high quality. Automotive diesel is variable and may be dirty.
Propane cylinders (e.g. Calor) may be refilled by:-
PIER Ship Suppliers, Box No.41, St. Petersburg , Tel: (812)-219-5692. Cost about $20 per 4.5 Kg. cylinder. For an extended stay it could be worth buying a Russian regulator (only Rbl 30).
Camping Gaz is obtainable in St. Petersburg, a/y 161, Ul.Zayseva
4, (korp 2, etazh 4, komm 15 & 16). Tel: (812)-184-4788.
Environmental awareness has not yet reached Russia, but it is an offence to dispose of rubbish in the river. Discharge of oil/bilge water is strictly prohibited. Rubbish bins (often overflowing) are available, but little else.
British yachts (and probably most European) not only receive an extremely warm welcome, but every possible offer of help. Currently only less than 50 yachts per year are visiting St. Petersburg, and one or two reach Petrozavodsk. The 1996 Cutty Sark Tall Ships' Race, with around 130 entries, and CA Millennium rally with 45 boats, were notable exceptions. Even fewer yachts visit Kaliningrad. The Glaister's 'Babaji' was probably the first foreign yacht to reach Moscow.
There are relatively few Russian yachts, and until recently none in private ownership. Yachts are mostly owned by yacht clubs, banks, companies and trade unions. They are extensively used, generally with large crews. In a passage up and down the Rivers Neva and Svir one will meet perhaps five yachts, as well as many small motorboats engaged in fishing. No windsurfers, jetskis only just arriving!
Whilst Russians expect payment for services rendered, it is important not to overdo this. They are a proud people, and will give you a gift (which may be worth more than that which you gave, and certainly cost them more in terms of hours worked to buy it) if you give them an unearned gift. We found Tower of London tea cloths, pop star posters and tins of English tea, most acceptable, with chocolate bars for minor services (e.g. carrying diesel) and Smarties for children. The St.PSYC, CRYC, Moscow Navy No.1 YC and the Maritime Centre in Petrozavodsk already have CA burgees!
The St.PSYC and CRYC have chandleries, almost entirely comprising imported equipment at much higher prices than the UK. Good quality repairs can be arranged, but not to electronic equipment. The CRYC has a vast sail loft which made us a Russian Ensign very quickly, and a large carpenrty shop. There is a large crane. However, unlike their West European counterparts, most Russian yachtsmen are competent at carrying out all necessary repairs, including electronics.
Addresses
OY TROIL MARIN
Ab Wavulinintie 4, 002310Helsinki
Tel: +358 9 682 3180
Fax: +358 9 682 31811
Email: info@troilmarin.com
Web: www.troilmarin.com
Estonian charts are avaible at
GOTTA Ltd
11312 Tallinn, Pärnu mnt 91
Estonia
Phone: +372 6748257
Fax: +372 6556017
e-mail: gotta@stalz.ee
www.gotta.ee
or
BELGEI Ltd 10416 Tallinn,
Nõlva 4
Estonia
Phone/fax: +372 660 2999
e-mail: belgei@hot.ee
Morintech Ltd.,
6 Prospekt Lima,
199155 St. Petersburg,
Phone/fax: +7 812 3254048 or +7 812 323 8527
e-mail: support@morintech.spb.su
http://www.dkart.ru
or
Morintech Navigation AS
Hovlandsveien 52 P.O. Box 212
N-4379 Egersund
Norway
Phone: +47 51 464930
Fax: +47 51 464701
e-mail: support@morintech.spb.su
Bibliography
Getting there
Planning a Foreign Cruise C1/96 (includes Baltic and North Sea), CA/RYA 1996
The Baltic Sea, Barry Sheffield, RCC Pilotage Foundation Imray Laurie Norie & Wilson 1992
Baltic Pilot Vol. I: Kattegat to Baltic Sea, Hydrographic Office 1974 (Admiralty NP18) (plus Supplement to 1994)
Baltic Pilot Vol. II: S Part of Baltic Sea & Gulf of Riga, Hydrographic Office 1978 (Admiralty NP19) NP19) NP19)(plus(plus(plus Supplement to 1994)
Baltic Pilot Vol. III: Gulf of Finland, Gulf of Bothnia & Åland Islands, Hydrographic Office 1976 (Admiralty NP20) (plus Supplement to 1994)
Cruising Guide to Germany and Denmark, Brian Navin, Imray Laurie Norie & Wilson 1994
Off the Beaten Track in Poland, Gordon McLachlan, The Globe Pequot Press 1995
Polskie Porty Otwartego Morza, Jerzy Kuliñski, (coast
from Swinoujscie to Wladyslawowo) Best-seller Gdansk
1991
Harbours and Sea Lanes of the Western Estonian Archipelago A/S MINILOOTS 111 Kuresaare EE 3300, Saaremaa, Estonia 1994
Navigation Notices for Offshore Sailors (Lights and Harbours on the Estonian Coast) Estonian Offshore Sailing Union (Copy in Cruising Association Library - Regional File)
Insight Guides: BALTIC STATES APA Publications 1994
Entry and exit control for pleasure craft traveling in Finland 1996
Free leaflet (Copy in Cruising Association Regional
File)
In Russia
Baedeker Guide: Leningrad (with pull-out map)
The Euro-City map of St. Petersburg (1:15,000) shows public
transport routes including bus and tram stops.
Cruising Association: Infopak on Russia, 28pp, £4.95 post free from CA House, I Northey Street, Limehouse Basin, London E14 8BT (email: library@cruising.org.uk).
River Atlases. The inland waterways are covered by ten atlases 15" by 12"entitled Atlas of the Single Deep Water System of european Russiaof which the first (Tom 1) is an introduction covering weather, wave height, ice, etc.. Tom 3 covers St. Petersburg to Lake Onego and south to Cerepovec; Tom 2 covers Cerepovec to Moscow; Tom 4 covers Voznesen'e to the White Sea; Tom 5-8 cover the route to the Gulf of Azov. The required volumes can be hired.
GeoCenter Euro Atlas: Baltic States and CIS (1:2,000,000 plus
city centre plans), 184pp, £7.99 from National Map Centre or
Stanford, 12-14 Longacre, Covent Garden
Aeronautical Map ONC D-3 (1:1,000,000), £8.50 from
Stanford (as above). This is also available in four portions (NW:103,
NE:102, SW:153, SE:154) at 1:500,000.
EC map: European Inland Waterways, United Nations November 1994,
£15.50 from HMSO or Stanford (as above).
The Swan's Road, Wallace Clark, p 89, RCC Roving Commissions:
Vol. 34, 1993
Articles
A Russian Voyage (from the White to the Black Sea), Miles Clark, National Geographic Magazine, June 1994
Books
Russia by River (Moscow to St. Petersburg with Valaam and Kizhi), Shernoff and Samofalova, $14.50 plus $5 airmail post from Russia by River, PO Box 406, Ridgeway, Colorado 81432, USA. Recommended.
Sailing Round Russia (UK to White Sea to Belomorsk, White Sea Canal, Volga to Istambul) Wallace Cark, ISBN 0 9599042 1 X (hardback) or ISBN 0 9599042 2 8 (paperback) c1993
Issue 9c, Updated 14 January 2003.
©2003 Raymond Glaister