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Narvik to Kristiansund It was sad to say goodbye to all our family and friends, and to leave our garden in full bloom, but good after two days travel to find Babaji in fine shape to welcome us. Distance from England 3552NM. Saturday 16 and Sunday 17 June 2001 Our taxi arrived at exactly 5 and got us to Stansted in good time for the 0815 Ryanair flight to Malmo. Landed in rain, but the sun was shining in Stockholm where we had a good three hours before getting our sleeper. This left exactly on time at 2113 but silently and without warning! We were lucky to have a 6-berth compartment to ourselves and had a fair nights sleep through many hundreds of miles of forest, (glimpsing the signs that we were crossing the Arctic Circle) to Boden (just inland from Lulea at the NW corner of the Gulf of Bothnia around which we returned via Helsinki last year), where we crossed the platform for the mountain railway (Europe's highest railway) to Narvik, arriving to the minute at 1720. One enters Norway without noticing since the railway is Swedish, built for taking their iron ore to a deep sea port. Our friends Trond and Aud from last year took us home for a really delicious fish soup, all fished by themselves, and to see Aud's photos of Russia on a town-twinning visit. They told us spring was late and the leaves on trees had only come out only out 10 days before. They had looked after our liferaft and electronics in our 10-month "winter" absence, and took us back via a Sunday-opening store for victualling and to the Alkenes YC Marina. Babaji looked just as we'd left her in her finger-berth, but now despite 9ºC with better weather! She was a little damp after 10 months afloat, but thanks to our fan heater and blankets sealed in polythene bags we were soon asleep to awake (the midnight sun was well shrouded by low cloud) at 9! Great to be back on board. Monday 18 June Got cockpit snow cover off, water system working, sails bent on, engine dewinterized and running, an electrical fault cleared, most traces of mould cleared, so a good days progress. Temperature reached 15ºC today but haven't seen the sun yet. At least we shall be going south so it can only get warmer (!). Tuesday 19 June The locals saw their surrounding mountains for the first time for two weeks today, a glorious day that reached 21ºC, and with no wind. Having made arrangements to be pulled out at HW tomorrow, and relaunched on Friday, we motored across to Narvik to spend the night there. Many people remembered us from last year. Took bike in for repair, its crank bearing collapsed just before we left last year, and did a big shop for food and antifouling paint. With 2.5 litres costing Kr525 (£1 = Kr12.5) decided to manage with one coat! Malcolm sent us great news "We had a storming round the island race - 1736 entries. 1 hour was knocked of the record for the fastest boat. We were the first Melges, and 4th in our class of Sportsboats (out of 48) and think we're 11th out of 1736 overall!!!" Wednesday 20 June Back to Ankenes at 1230HW ready to be pulled out (tractor with cradle/trailer on ramp), quite exciting! Without any suitable props they left the trailer in place with strops lowered. Steinar lent us his high-pressure washer which quickly removed the thin layer of slime, there being no real fouling, the hull was remarkably clean after ten months afloat here. Got the antifouling done in hot (25ºC) sunshine by early evening. Turned in early and woke to brilliant sunshine thinking it must be morning. 2330! Thursday 21 June Alkanes Marina, Narvik. Completed antifouling, repainted the white boot-topping line, greased stopcocks, etc. Last two days have been almost too hot, almost clear sky, windless, it's currently 30ºC inside Babaji. The children are all diving in and now paddling on beach at low water, but the sea is only 8/9ºC! Walked up the hill to see the midnight sun. Friday 22 June Tractor driver arrived 1400 tomorrow to relaunch us, motored straight back to Narvik Vassvik marina to collect bike. They tell us we brought the summer with us, as it has been unseasonably hot (up to 36ºC in the wheelhouse!) and windless since we arrived. Saturday 23 June - Narvik to Lødingen, 68N28.7, 16E0.25, 33NM Left Vassvik marina in Narvik at 0940, Steinar Svensen calling us from Ankenes Marina where he'd seen us passing in the distance! The Ofotfjorden was glassy calm surrounded by snow-covered mountains of up to 1575m. Wind sprung up long enough to gets sails up, but died after 30 minutes. Narvik is 30NM down inside the Ofotfjord, and significantly warmer than the "coast". Lodingen was much nicer than we'd remembered it from last year, hot sunshine does make a difference. Sunday 24 June - Lødingen to Svolvaer, 68N14.0, 14E34.0, 40NM Left Lødingen in company with a German yacht Moin-Moin 1020 with a following NE wind sailing 4 hours until the wind died, then motored between islands (one with two 500m peaks). Sailed through a school of long-finned pilot whales on the approach to Svolvaer, a wonderful sight. Unlike dolphin they do not leap out of the sea, but they do "blow" noisily. Moored on Visitors pontoon right off the central square, with supermarket, restaurants, bicycle hire, mini-bank etc. After a brief walk we returned for supper and saw the ensigns of two Patrol craft being lowered to the bosun’s whistle at 2100 local time, so followed suit! Monday 25 June - Svolvær to Kabelvag, 68N12.6, 14E28.8,3NM Explored by bicycle before leaving for Kabelvag. What a contrast! After the bustle of Svolvær, with busy marina, hundreds of tourists, roads busy with traffic, Kabelvag was an oasis of peace. With evening sun in our eyes, a strong headwind causing spray, and rocky islands both sides of the approach we were very glad of this! The deserted visitors pontoon leads off the village square with attractive pub alongside. We cycled inland to a very blue but cold lake where we had a picnic. A "Kings stone" has signatures from a number of Norwegian Kings, subsequently carved into the rock. Tuesday 26 June - Kabelvag to Henningsvaer, 68N9.2, 14E12.2, 8NM A short run to this attractive fishing town with a few pontoons for visitors, and colourful wooden buildings. It is on an island, it is now connected to the mainland by two bridges with sailing headroom and a number of causeways, this providing another enjoyable cycle venture. Weather now changed, low cloud (300m) hiding mountains, and cold (12°C) but almost calm. Plan to sail across over sea to Bodø tomorrow. Forecast variable force 4 so we wait to see whether the present NW will remain, we go almost due south 55NM. Margo busy sketching, and just having bought wool, knitting socks! Wednesday 27 June - Henningsvaer to Bodø, 67N17.01, 14E22.20, 55NM Saw whales but too distant for photos. Our first rain since arriving. Only managed 3 hours sailing before the wind died. Bodø is the busiest port we've been in since Tromsø. A couple we'd met last year and corresponded with collected us to take us home for fish soup then a drive up the mountain for midnight sun and view down onto Bodø. Got our first Times since arriving! Thursday 28 June - Bodø to Inndyr, 67N2.18, 14E1.52, 19NM Long wait for the diesel bunker boat to return (the locals all have Esso cards enabling them to use self-service pumps). A man came down to see us who turned out to be the Customs Officer who had made it possible for us to winter (legally) in Norway. He has a Colvic identical to ours which was nearby! It was good to make personal contact and we shall keep in touch by email. After fuelling we left to carry on south, but just to a tiny village Inndyr on a well-sheltered inlet. Weather now more normal, barometer well done from the high we'd had on arrival. And just started to rain as we were about to go for a walk! Friday 29 June - Inndyr to Engoyra (66N42.5, 13E42.8) for Black Ice Glacier, 35NM Doctor's and coastguard boats are based in Inndyr, the former going out twice to take the doctor to neighbouring islands or isolated mainland. Took the Indreleia (inside islands) route again today, going south to the Skars Fjord before going inland up the Holland Fjord. The Svarteisen glacier only comes into view at the extreme end of the fjord, suddenly revealed in its full magnificence. A pontoon with long connecting bridge to the shore provides good berth, and access to a land-locked road connecting a ferry terminal, a few farms, and tourist cafe overlooking the lake at the foot of the glacier. Used our bikes to make an evening exploration, walking the final part to below the glacier, where a Stopp notice warns about going further; we saw the justification for this the following morning when a chunk fell off with a thunderous roar, the largest bit around 3m cube (and therefore around 27tons) coming to rest a few hundred metres above. The glacier snout comes right down to a round lake (formed by erosion under the pressure of ice millennia before), with a small stream to the sea through the old terminal moraine. The top of the glacier had been in cloud when we arrived, but was now revealed in tantalising glimpses. Saturday 30 June - Engoyra to Indre Kvarø, 66N29.3, 12E 57.8, 32NM Decided to make another sortie to the glacier to attempt the scramble up glaciated rock to the glacier. But having left boots at home, our sailing shoes had inadequate grip on smooth wet rock, and after finding a useful fixed rope (secured to a tiny tree growing in a crack!) up a steep bit, we took more photos and called it a day. Just as well as it soon started raining. A guide costs Kr400 per hour, and usually takes about 3 hours. Left at 1200 to leave Hollandsfjorden, and continue west through the Skars Fd to join the broad Rødø Fjord south. Crossed the Arctic Circle (66N30) at 1800 then rounded Vikingen Is with its Polarsirklemerke, a huge globe, to berth in a little harbour on Indre Kvarøy. This has a new pontoon with a number of guest places, and charges Kr30 in an honesty box. No services. We were lucky to see the shopkeeper going to do some work in her well-stocked shop, which had closed at 1400, and she served us enthusiastically. Explored the very limited part of the island that has a road. The school has 4 PCs we could see through windows. Six of the 20 children who live on the Island came to talk us, mostly with excellent English. Lovely evening with excellent view to the mountains and glaciers to the east. Sunday 1 July - Indre Kvarøy to Nesna, mainland W of Hugla, 66N12.08, 13E1.03, 19NM Drizzle and no view, so we were wise to take pictures last night. Left to continue south at 1130, flat calm all day. Quite a lot of shipping. Berthed in large marina at Nesna which only had 4 guest places on ends of pontoons so doubled up alongside Frille (Mistress) which made us most welcome. Returned from a little exploration plus first showers for a week in the Club Room, to find they had cooked us two meals beautifully served wrapped in foil! Fish they had caught on slices of potato, carrots, leek and white sauce! We had mentioned we were short of gas and having cold meals. We asked someone in town where the town centre was. "There is no centre" he told us. Monday 2 July - Nesna to Sandnessjøen, 66N1.36, 12E37.75, 15NM Nights are drawing in now we are south of the Arctic Circle, sunset 2338 sunrise 0048, so 70 minutes! But no sun in sight this morning, just drizzle and fog! Visited the original wooden church with massive stove but under-pew electric heating now used. All painted in muted pastel colours. Left 1130 with slightly better weather, but visibility fell to ½NM for a while so were glad of the radar. Progress slow with 24 knots of head-wind against perhaps 1 knot ebb tide on fjord, knocking up quite a sea. Arrived at Sandnessjøen Havnevesen guest pontoon where a south cone was flying, hadn't seen one for years; the crew of the Coastguard cutter had never seen one either, and fortunately there was an explanation in Norwegian below so they now know. Asked them for a forecast but they said they hadn't seen the Navtex today, so they have no better source than us! Just as we'd settled comfortably on the guest pontoon and borrowed a cable to extend our two to reach a distant socket, we were told to move to the other side as a RNorN warship was coming in! This turned out to be the "Shetland Bus" Hirta, an American-built 1943 timber-hulled submarine chaser, one of three that had carried agents and weapons between the Shetland Isles and Norway. (Of course most of the traffic was by Norwegian fishing boats). It had been lost for two years and partially sunk and meticulously rebuilt, an old Oerlikon and other guns, contemporary radio and radar being refitted (although it carried modern radar, autopilot and GPS). We were given a guided tour by a rating presumably chosen for his fluent English. Hirta was returning to Bergen following a tour north, and took three boys part of the way from a boat opposite us. I can't see the RN doing this without formality! Tuesday 3 July - main hr. to Båtforening, 66N1.19, 12E36.63, ½NM! Awoke to fog (no view), very wet drizzle, F5 wind, 13ºC. After shopping left the Havnevesen for the Båtforening small boat harbour about ½NM to SE, which was much quieter and has a new clubhouse with showers, washing machine, TV (Wimbledon!), and a kitchen where we cooked our dinner. We found the article by Andre Aas, who accompanied the Blue Onego part of the Baltic Millennium Rally last year, in the magazine Seilas. Weather improved marginally with less wind and mountains across fjord just discernible, but we have our portable fan heater going to keep warm. Wednesday 4 July - Sandnessjøen to Tjøtta, 65N49.22, 12E25.76, 18NM Awful morning with fog and drizzle. Left at 1250 with visibility up to 5NM but low cloud base, calm. Along NW coast of Alsten turning into an inlet where there is a wooden jetty for short-stay to see the Petter Dass (a famous Norwegian poet) monument and Alstahaug Kirke. The oldest remaining part of this church dates from the late 12th century and was built from soap-stone. Dass was minister 1689 to 1707 and found inspiration for his poetry here. We had planned to do some 30 miles to Brønnøysund but the visibility closed to ½NM so we diverted to Tjøttaa island with a well sheltered fishing and ferry harbour. Visitors pontoon with electricity. Good store with wide range of stock including chandlery. Two-hour walk, first for some time, and first albeit brief glimpse of the sun. Margo listened to Henman match commentary from Wimbledon which was hot! Thursday 5 July - Tjøtta to Brønnøsund, 65N28.42, 12E12.44, 23NM Left for roughly southward passage with west wind strong enough to give over 2 hours sailing on the 5 hour passage. Visibility good at last but low cloud base. First boat to moor in visitors harbour at 1535, but by 2100 there were 12. Information Office told us we could cycle 15km to Torghatten, the 260m mountain with the hole through it. A well-engineered path leads up the mountain with 400 steps, the black chasm above suddenly showing daylight through the mountain before giving a stunning view of the archipelago below. The rectangular hole is around 15m wide and perhaps a minimum of 60m high, going steeply down to the western exit, about 80m long. 108 "underground" wooden steps and path lead to a ledge giving an even better view. Fortunately we had it all to ourselves before hordes arrived from both directions. Some parties were doing a through walk. We arrived back at 9, weary but triumphant. We had planned to visit the hole by mooring at Toftsundet tomorrow where the ascent takes 40 minutes. The Hurtigruten coastal steamers take a route that allows passengers to see a spot sky through the mountain. Brønnøysund is an attractive town with an old quarter where the traditional wooden houses have been preserved. Many large shops. We have been following Wimbledon on BBC World Service which used a special frequency to give running commentary. Weather now very variable. We seem to be between forecast areas on Bødo and Rogaland Navtex; fortunately most of our route is sheltered by off-lying islands, and winds have been strong only during the nights. Friday 6 July - Brønnøysund to Rørvik, 64N51.7, 11E13.8, 52NM Beautiful morning! Under the huge bridge we'd cycled over. Kept a close watch on Torghatten and were rewarded by a glimpse of daylight through the hole. This black mountain remained in sight behind us most of the day. Moored along outside of first pontoon, reserved for visitors, and were welcomed by a cacophony of raucous kittiwakes roosting on man-made ledges on the small cliff above us. Like the cocktail party noise it gradually reached a crescendo before it quietened to begin again, and kept this up all day. Saturday 7 July - Rest day in Rørvik. Cycled over the huge suspension bridge with rather a disconcerting cross wind and awe-inspiring drop to the sea 60m below. A man was working on the catenary cables way above, having climbed a ladder inside the supporting tower. Then over a concrete span bridge to the mainland where we had a picnic overlooking the fjord. Bought Den Norske Los 4 and pleased to find there is no VAT on books. Visited the museum which occupies a former shop and living quarters of a rich merchant, built 1870, now restored. Upstairs has a reconstructed school room, typical peasants room, and much on fishing. The church opens daily, and museum reopens, from 2000 to 2130 for the hoard off the Hurtigrunen coastal steamer; managed to enjoy the church before they arrived. Cooked our evening meal in the YC's galley to conserve gas. All the club houses have a meeting room with galley and TV, but these are more often locked. Margo following the tennis where Wimbledon and Norway had exchanged weather! Sunday 8 July - Rørvik to Sætervågen, 64N23.7, 10E28.8, 37NM Awoke 0315 to a glorious red sunrise and the kittiwakes still guarding their nests with their cries. For once had a fresh following (NE) wind knocking up a moderate sea in the exposed parts and goose-winged for 8½ hours, first day with no engine! Moored on the small public quay (which had no charge and free electricity) alongside the French couple we met in Rørvik who did it in 8 hours in their Gib'sea, so we had a combined dinner, they producing Côte de Rhone! Then walked through village where we stopped to admire a cabin decorated with whale bones and wooden artefacts. The owner invited us in to see his house which had been built by his grandfather while lighthouse keeper (just off-shore) in 1900 and had original furniture and framed photos from that period. He plied us with beer then generous portions of Cognac, so we had to continue our walk to work it off! Monday 9 July - Sætervågen to Sandvikberget, 64N19.4, 10E27.0, 5NM First climbed the hill overlooking the harbour where Margo managed a water-colour despite strong wind. Then walked around two hills which became very tough going on boulders covered with heather roots covering deep holes. Decided to leave for another smaller harbour at 1600 as heavy rain began. Sætervågen had a new private marina with visitors pontoon on the outside. No electricity but no charge! The village has a large fish processing factory and shop, backed by steep grey rock hills. Tuesday 10 July - Sandvikberget to Stokkøya, 64N2.17, 9E59.54, 24NM A windy and wet night but calm all morning as we joined the Hutigruten route through the narrow Stokken fjord with narrow 90° bend; later saw a Hutigruten come through from the south and were glad we hadn't have to meet it. Found a new well-sheltered marina, although about 2km form the village over causeway and hilly coast road; got bikes out to shop at the Coop. Wednesday 11 July - Stokkøya to Djupfest and Uthaug, 63N43.51, 9E35.08, 101NM Glassy sea as we continued SW through the indreleia to a tiny ferry port (ferry for Tarva islands) which we'd been recommended. By then the north wind was blowing us in and we had difficulty doing a 180 degree turn in this microscopic harbour into which they'd crammed two pontoons almost stretching to the ferry ramp. After finding there were no facilities (our out-of-date harbour guide boasted showers, washing machine etc.), that there was nothing within walking distance, and the north wind blew swell onto our berth, we dined and left for Uthaug, a large partly drying fishing harbour with marina and shower, supermarket/PO set in very pleasant countryside. Thursday 12 July - Uthaug to Raudberget, 63N29.19, 9E59.92, 32NM. After crossing the Grande-Vika, a 3NM circle of water surrounded by a few big and myriad small islands, we entered the clear water of the Trondheims Leia and picked up a north wind which gave a good reach east into the Trondheims Fjorden where the tail wind gave us the fastest run we'd known, most exhilarating and too much for the autohelm. We touched 7 knots on the GPS with negligible tide to help us. Passed Kvithyllhamn harbour where the huge cruise ship "The World" on (in?) which you can buy luxury flats is being built in a vast dry dock. Turning east we stopped at Raudbergenet to enter a small fishing harbour when we noticed a motorcruiser entering another adjacent harbour not shown on our charts. This was a splendid mole harbour built 5 years ago with pontoons and fingers still being extended. Excellent shower, electricity, etc.. Walked into the village where there is a museum and church, both then closed. While trying to get a viewpoint for our harbour we met a farmer who was feeding a heavily pregnant cow with supplements. He said once they give birth they will not move from that spot even if separated from their calf, so they need to move the cow home before the birth. His cows were very tame. Friday 13 July - Raudberget to Trondheim, 63N26.14, 10E23.87, 12NM Early start at 0820 but boats already fishing off the ness. They get enough fish in an hour to last all week. Puzzled to find the entrance to the canal with its lighthouse surrounded by a "new" mole with east-facing opening - the joys of using uncorrected charts and pilots! Called Skansen rail bridge when 7 minutes off to be told he'd open in 10 minutes so merely had to slow down. There is in fact a marina with guest places before the rail bridge but further from the city centre. We chose the new guest berths in front of the railway station and close to the centre, just before the Nidelva bridge which opens only twice daily. First visited the cathedral getting there before a thunderstorm which closed the tower with its copper-clad spire. Waited for the short organ concert at 1300 after which we climbed the tower with 172 steps in two very narrow spiral staircases separated by a passageway overlooking the chancel. Since there is only one staircase we had to wait in the rain for the slowcoaches to come up before we could descend. Got soaked returning returning to our berth "Lunched" at a very busy Macdonalds! After lunch cycled out to the big Aga store to enquire about propane and again got soaked. Our fan heater really came into its own as a clothes drier. Then cycled to downtown Aga propane store where we found the price of Norwegian bottles (on which only 50% is recoverable) prohibitive, but were told where we could get Calor bottles refilled! Back for supper with excellent local strawberries. Sky brightened so we ventured out to window shop only to get another set of garments soaked. Will leave fan heater on overnight to dry out. Saturday 14 July A much better day to finish sight seeing. Walked up to the fort with views over city and fjord, but poor visibility. Memorial to the patriots who were executed here by Germans in 1943. Dinner in fish restaurant overlooking our berth. Sunday 15 July - my 70th birthday! Went to the well-attended 1100 service in the Cathedral, managed to join in the hymns with rather dismal tunes and at least follow the order of service. The long sermon was about fiske, the only word I recognised! The announcement included a surprise one in English that there would be a service in English in the Chapter House at 6. After lunch cycled to the Aga gas filling plant to check the best route for carrying gas bottles, and got soaked yet again! Had to wear sailing gear to go to church, stripping it off inside. Very poignant sermon on the good Samaritan story and of the Bradford Asian who sheltered terrified elderly whites in the recent riot. Margo chatted to the organist as we left who played Happy Birthday To You for me! Almost the entire congregation then went to a RC hall where tea was laid out for us. The preacher, Canon Trevor Park, turned out to have been the curate at Crosthwaite under Canon Marshall while we lived in Portinscale, and godfather of the son of the man with whom I used to go fell walking! Small world! He invited us to visit him in Oslo. Others there were a Ugandan doing a PhD on petroleum engineering, a software consultant working on a GPS ground station project, and a university lecturer with his three children who had grown up there. Finding virtually all the restaurants close at 9 we had pizzas and self-service salad at an Italian restaurant, a very satisfying end to a memorable day. Monday 16 July - Trondheim to Brekstad, 63N 41.10, 9E 40.26, 27NM Cycled the 3km to the Aga plant at Leda, and got our Calor propane bottles filled at what is probably the only place in Norway to do this! After provisioning called Harbourmaster to disconnect our cable and get the bridge to open which it did immediately after a train crossed over. After a little rain the day turned out fine. Stopped at Brekstad, a large mole harbour, a few miles south overland from Uthaug where we'd stopped on the way out to Trondheim. Cycled 3.5M to Austrått and through a nature reserve with boxes telling you what to look for, to Austrått Castle with a collection of bronze sculpture set in grass, and - evidently more popular with tourists - a German Fort using the gun turret (600 tons!) from the battlehip Gneisenau after "we'd" disabled it. This has a fantastic view over several limbs of the Trondheim Fjord. Tuesday 17 July - Brekstad to Edøy, 63N 17.15, 8E 8.12, 49NM We had planned to go right through to Kristiansund, 65NM, there being a dearth of good harbours at the western end of the Trondheim Fjord, but we tiring from a running course (though making good up to 6.4kts) and put into this miserable little mole harbour used primarily by the hourly ferry to the mainland and express ferry Trondheim - Kristiansund. Weather equally miserable! Berthed along a pontoon about 10m long and exposing us to the NE swell and disturbance from the ferries. A local invited us to use a mooring buoy but the fishing boat on another buoy bounced about more than us. Walked up to small but massively built church with commanding view and surrounded by concrete fortifications, now filled in, with access to the church crypt doubtless used as an ammunition store. Wednesday 18 July - Edøy to Kristiansund, 63N 7.07, 7E49.54, 23NM Crossed the quite rough Edøyfjord, the western extension of the Trondheimsleia and Tronheimfjord to enter a delightful sound that provides a sheltered back-door approach to Kristiansund. Cloud was pouring down Stabben, a 812m mountain, evaporating as it fell into the sound. Entered through the Nordsundet under a bridge and turned north into the well-sheltered Vågen with a large private marina with over-crowded guest space but a most helpful berthing master who found us a spare slot. Kristiansund is a city on three islands, the northern one almost bisected by the Vågen, connected by road bridges. Explored on foot, walking up the steep hill to the modernistic church, a park with lakes formerly the town's reservoirs, and Varden, a tower on the highest point that would offer great views in better visibility! Thursday 19 July - in Kristiansund Explored all three islands (there is not much to see) by bike over the bridges, and crossing back by ferry; in fact the ferry goes anticlockwise to its four jetties so we had to make three trips to achieve one! Met CA member Roger Hornby and his crew including Stuart Thomson who they had collected from Fair Isle (from whence they crossed to Rorvik) from a luxurious 42ft Halberg Rassey Eider, and had drinks on board. Weather at last perking up after half-mile visibility then gale warning in Kristiansund. This morning we saw the snow-covered mountains again for the first time for ages but then ran for shelter from a very rough sea! ©Raymond Glaister 2001 October 2001 Typo 14/1/03 |
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