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21 May 2000Took the Buzz flight from Stansted to Helsinki. Pertti (CA’s honorary local representative) and Pirko Kortilla met us at the airport and took us to the Grand Marina hotel which is managed by their daughter who got us a big discount. The following afternoon we took the train to Lapeenranta and taxi to the hardstanding where Babaji looked just as we’d left her, but with an excellent repair to the gash in her keel. We met a crane driver who could put us afloat for GBP40 in two days time just enough for antifouling, etc. It was great to be afloat again, the engine starting without hesitation, so we went straight to the guest harbour (virtually empty) to complete preparations.
I had brought out a short length of exhaust hose to replace a bit that had gone soft, but closer inspection showed that the whole pipe to the silencer needed replacement. The Volvo shop found that Helsinki had 4 metres in stock, so we ordered 3m, to discover the stock was four 1m lengths, presumably useless offcuts! Then found that Turku had plenty but a national holiday would incur a further day’s delay.
Lappeenranta made a very pleasant start to our cruise, and the Guest Harbour at 50% discount for over a week a real bargain at FIM20 (GBP2!) per night including the use of the best sauna/swimming pools/jakussi/turkish bath/etc. complex I've come across. Unfortunately the weather turned wet just as I was ready for varnishing but I did some gelcoat repairs before the temperature dropped to 11°C, and forced us to buy a fan heater.
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| Babaji and Spirit of Europe at Lapeenrenta | Pavement painting in Lapeenrenta |
27 May - Launch into Lake Saimaa
Launched and motored into guest harbour. Found the fault with fridge electrics, a great relief. GPS now reading 61N3.738, 28E11.369 with third decimal point steady but height (245 - 270ft) fluctuates. Weather recovered to 24°C with SW4/5 after a very windy night "aloft". Great to be afloat again with heads working and water tank full, and hose for washing down. Job list still 29 items as every time we finish one something else is discovered. Lapeenranta has every possible service and we had welding repair on bicycle yesterday (30 minutes work for GBP5). I estimate 50% boats now launched with several mobile cranes busy today, but strong winds have deterred boats leaving moorings. Getting used to Finnish food again, discovered delicious potato cakes but haven't found decent white bread yet.
Tuesday 6 June - Laapeenrenta to Nuijamaa (60N57.7, 28E33.1 Saimaa canal) 16NM
Left the guest harbour at 1300 and descended through locks 8 to 6 to spend the night just north of the Russian border at Nuijamaa.
Wednesday 7 June - Nuijamaa to Viborg 21NM
Stocked up with duty-free at Cvetotchnoe Lock. We lunched while waiting for our pilot (whom we'd booked by fax) below Brusnitchnoe Lock and were delighted to have Alexeev again. We were back at sea level again having descended from Lake Saimaa which is at 252ft ASL. This time he wasn't in such a hurry and we didn't nearly boil! He took us right to a bows-on mooring at the Morskoi Yacht Club (60N57.68, 28E33.06) opposite the castle. It looks reasonably secure, has electricity (but to get our socket to work we had to turn all the pontoon lights on) and water claimed drinkable, plus a BBQ open-air restaurant. 200Rb or GBP5 per night. We were offered an adorable kitten. The Director of the Club, Igor is very helpful. We have to have the pilot again when we leave, which he agrees is crazy. Although the routing is relatively complex, it is very well marked, the depth mostly 4 metres.
Took a camera which was a mistake as it made
it rain for the Castle and get us mobbed by men trying to sell glass,
pornographic videos, even fruit in the market square! The Castle would give a
wonderful panoramic view in good weather! Margo bought a nice basket for 190Rb;
some six stalls were devoted to baskets. Unfortunately this also marked us as
foreigners as Russians only use baskets for gathering mushrooms! Many stands
were selling imported sportsware (which most Russians, and Finns too, seem to
wear most of time). Viborg is like the third world compared with Finland, but
being built of stone has many ancient and beautiful buildings. It could be a
great tourist attraction with some investment (especially on paint).The rain set in for the evening so we had an early night. We woke terribly early this morning with sunrise at 0400.
The removal of SA from GPS is marvellous! SMG and CMG are now rock steady.
Friday 9 June - Vyborg to Ostrov "Povorothbi" (60N34.2, 28E26.0), 15NM in 2h
Heard nightingales singing in the wood behind the yacht club during the night. Beautiful morning. Igor Kiselev, the very helpful YC Director, booked our pilot for 1830 and took me to the Customs office in the main port area where we got our crew lists and passports stamped.
Then went for
further exploration in town, which is really growing on us with its many fine
buildings all in brick or stone. Returned to find Spirit of Europe,
overdue from 2100 last night, had arrived; they merely hadn't allowed
enough time to come down the Saimaa canal and arrived too late for the pilot.
We all had coffee under the awning after which, as experienced guides, we took
them round town. They especially enjoyed the market where Margo bought a very
nice linen tablecloth for USD8 getting her change in tea towels. I bought a set
of files from one of several amazing stalls selling everything from micrometers
to 50mm drills, all at very low prices. Several stalls had excellent
submersible pumps at about GBP15, pity our well is dry. Returned for lunch of
pork charcoal grilled on skewers for 60Rb. Made another sortie after lunch to
the huge square dominated by Lenin, and found the linen shop we'd seen
before.
Pilot
arrived at 1825 and took Spirit of Europe with us following. Vladimir
Ivankiv phoned us as we were leaving (Vyborg is well covered by GSM as is the
whole coast) and was relieved to hear our ETA. The authorities apparently
thought the security at Vytosk (where one normally pick up a pilot as we did
last year) inadequate for an overnight stay and took us further to a tiny and
uninhabited Ostrov "Povorothbi" (leaving us with deepwater route to St.
Petersburg) where we lay on a former military quay. The Pilot launch was
already waiting to return our pilot, who had come 15NM for USD10 each boat,
what a bargain! 
The launch had also brought over a lot of
adults and children who have apparently adopted obsolete military buildings as
dachas! It later returned with another group and stayed overnight, A motorboat
also came from "our" YC. We had a walk through the wooded island where lilies
of the valley and solomon seal were abundant. On return we were invited to join
two Russians who had made a great fire and were plied with vodka, an exotic
beer of which they were very proud, and kvas! They were going to have a
splendid meal; the Russians certainly know how to enjoy themselves at minimum
cost! Mosquitoes drove us back but a light onshore breeze kept us free of them
at night. Saturday 10 June - Ostrov "Povorothbi" to Central River YC (59N57.9, 30E14.3), St. Petersburg
Left at 0600 after superb sunrise with cloudless sky all night. Although forecast was 5-10m/s from W/NW the wind was of little help until late afternoon. We were not allowed to use the sheltered Primorsk channel where there is claimed to be a naval base, but with so little wind this was unimportant. (Subsequently heard that there is nothing to be seen at all and that Primorsk may be freely visited by car). Spirit of Europe, who had no adequate charts, followed us all day!
The new Customs post at Fort Konstantin on Kronstadt is a great improvement and Vladimir Ivankiv came by car to greet us. Since I had to meet Vladimir Gromov, organizer of the Blue Onego festival who was returning from Oslo to Petrozavosk, we left for the Central River YC in St. Petersburg right away, arriving at 2115, giving time for a good hours meeting with Gromov before Ivankiv took him to catch the night train. Met the YC director and new harbourmaster and arranged to have meeting on rally berthing arrangements 1000 tomorrow.
So we have finally arrived St. Petersburg again!
13 June - In St. Petersburg
Very busy making arrangements for arrival of rally boats. Near gale making marina pontoon uncomfortable, boats moored bows-to the mole doing much better.
Organized an
office and telephone for Vladimir, moved portaloos to outer mole, got folders
for Vladimir to issue to boats, attended meeting at Pilots office to agree
itinerary to Petrozavodsk (this was Gromov’s responsibility but he was in
Petrozavodsk, and difficult because Gromov had underestimated time needed by at
last one day), gave an interview for TV, had still photographs taken for an
article, etc. Social engagements included invitation from British Embassy to
Queens Birthday Party, dinner at the Ivankiv’s home, and an evening party
sailing on CRYC’s huge ketch Nadezha.
We had time only for one brief evening in St. Petersburg managing two hours in the Hermitage before it closed!
19 June - St. Petersburg to Petrokrepost (59N59.74, 31E1.81)
Boats left CRYC last night to wait below Tuchev bridge. Around 0130 took on our faithful Alexander Alexeef, the Chief Pilot, whom we have had at least twice before and met in several meetings.
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| Rally Boats pass though St Perersburg bridges at night | |
After shopping we heard that permission had not been obtained
for the island and that the fleet had to return to an anchorage miles from
anywhere. I said we had made satisfactory arrangement to lie bows on to an
ancient lock wall and invited others to do the same. Six joined us eventually.
Later organized a tug to take us with guide and interpreter to Schlisseberg
Castle. Strong GSM signal up to Petrokrepost. Tuesday 20/Wednesday 21 June - Petrokrepost to Podporosche (60N55.12, 34E10.54), 144NM
Left Petrokrepost 0700 to pass Schlisseberg
Castle and cross Lake Ladoga, some 80NM. Enough wind to sail at times but calm
until 1000. The fleet was very busy talking to each other with the slower boats
anxious at meeting the 0800 bridge opening time; we are smug because not only
do we not need the bridges to open but we confirmed it would open if necessary
twice in its 0800-1000 opening period between trains. At one time our two
transit pilots (on the fastest boat Nefertitti and slowest
Endring) argued for a considerable period in Russian! Reached fairway
buoy for Svir River 2035. Beautiful hot day, around 24°C with lake at
15°C. Once in the River Svir we went up the Pasha River a bit to compare it with our previous overnight here. If anything the wooden "quays" were in a worse condition and quite unusable by yachts, Continued through night (although never really dark the weak lights on the buoys and leading marks became clear). Moored to a floating building belonging to the River Maintenance authority at 0500 and were welcomed by fully dressed man who accepted a bar of chocolate only when I indicated it was payment for mooring. He said "Churchill - Stalin - Roosevelt" to us when we told him we were English! David and I explored Lodinjie Pole, including a brand new wooden church. The fleet (bar 2) were anchored here waiting for the bridge lift at 0800, so we continued. To my surprise there is now a GSM signal here so I will send this message while waiting at anchor below the lock for the fleet. Another promising day (0720).
Wednesday 21 June
Not having had to wait for the bridge Bababji and Nuada arrived at Vernnije Mandrogi, our designated overnight stop at 1300. This is a new tourist village with a quay for cruise ships we'd seen under construction in 1997. We had a great welcome from the Director and others but elected to have a Shisskebab in the tent before exploring the "village". The food and beer was good but a lady offered us a vodka tasting session and eventually produced 9 bottles. Multiplied by our four this made 36 samples for which she tried to charge USD36! Fortunately John (Kapp) had drunk none and was level-headed enough to get it struck off the bill. Nuada likewise. This perhaps unfairly tarred the whole place and we decided to leave; in any case a cruise ship was about to use the one and only berth and provide many more gullible visitors. Our transit pilots decided that we should instead use an official anchorage in a bight in the river Svir at Podporoschie. We went for a walk and got views of nine of the yachts, Minos having been doing their own thing. (Some of us are getting fed up with the amount of chatter between yachts on our designated Ch77). A glorious sight with some already dressed overall. After returning to Babaji at anchor Minos arrived and asked us if we'd like to go ahead with them. We switched off Ch77 and speeded off to catch up.
Unfortunately they appeared to be a few inches too tall for the unlifted bridge and were forced to retreat. We continued to the lock arriving 2300 but were told by a dredger captain that we could not go through until 0600, so we anchored below the dam. The power station was off and it was very quiet until 0315 when a drunk Russian attempted to board us and asked for two litres of "benzin". They wouldn't believe we hadn't any and it was not until David Barkham emerged with his umbrella and stentorious voice, that they considered retreat. Later they approached a big ship anchored awaiting the lock with similar result.
Thursday 22 June Podroporozhe to Vosnecene (CG station:61N0.44, 35E29.3), 51NM
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Called at Coast Guard station to report our departure to Petrozavodsk as our transit pilots might be (should be?) concerned about us! Whether they called we never heard. Then out "to sea" with a glorious sunset at 2300
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Friday 23 June Vosnecene to Petrozavodsk), 53NM
….. and sunrise at 0400, the sea then glassy smooth with only an inch of swell. Managed a short period of sailing at 3 knots and deployed mackerel line! Moored alongside Victor Dmitriev’s Maritime Centre jetty (61N46.8, 34E24.9) at 0930,
having done 303NM from St.
Petersburg and 440 from Lapeenrenta. Having been delayed by an 18-hour delay in
opening the second and last Svir bridge the fleet finally arrived here between
evening and early morning to face a barrage of social events. Due to an
unfortunate previous disagreement between Dmitriev and the Blue Onego OC, the
OC had opted not to use the Maritime Centre for berthing the fleet, but we were
made extremely welcome, the sauna being stoked for us. Instead the OC had
arranged to use the Young Sailor’s YC berthing which had no facilities,
but was closer to the town pier. Saturday 24 June in Petrozavodsk
Dressed overall we had a grand sail past Petrozavodsk on Saturday, a public holiday with the Petrozavodsk promenade and parks like Hampstead Heath on a Bank Holiday. Then we all moored to the central passenger pier and had TV interviews and speeches in the pride of place near the Peter the Great Square. We had a navy guard of honour and best view of enactment of battles with men dressed in chain mail. Then we returned to harbour and had parties on board the Maritime Centre club lighter and club deck. Unfortunately politics already mentioned had divided the Centre and City and Margo and I (only) were guests of honour at Victor Dmitriev's lavish party. But all enjoyed themselves.
Sunday 25 June in Petrozavodsk
Left the Maritime Centre to berth with the fleet in the Young Sailor’s harbour. The fleet refuelled and took on water, a lengthy process, before having a guided coach tour of Petrozavodsk, ending with a 100-minute folk music, dance and singing. Our dinner began at 1700 again with Margo and I at the top table with City and Karelian government officials and many speeches with excellent interpreter. The Cruising Association was given the choice of one of the fine paintings hanging around the vast hall; Margo choose a beautiful oil on canvas of the Solovetski Monastry (which we were to visit in about a week's time); it is bigger than folded chart size so a slight problem in transport and should strictly be valued for export.
Food drink and speeches flowed until 2220 when skippers met in another room laid out with drink a-plenty, smoked salmon etc. Unfortunately discussion was somewhat heated as the group returning to St. Petersburg were divided in the speed with which they want to return; I tried to convince them to provide a second west-bound pilot for the slow group that wants to take it easy and visit Valaam. This will involve the "defective" bridge being opened twice. It is now 0630 and we leave shortly for 30NM crossing to Kizhi shortly. Another hot day promised.
©Raymond Glaister 2000 September 2000, Added pics 11/01