Since Yeltsin opened the inland waterways of North West Russia to foreign yachtsmen in 1997, the Ministry of Transport have effectively re-closed them by
The first two aspects deny one of the main joys of cruising: the freedom of choice depending on wind, weather and whim (fancy). Click for schedule of charges. The pilot must be paid $2.3 per hour day and night and for times stopped for sight-seeing and shopping en route. This is reduced only by 50% for groups of up to 5 yachts sharing a pilot. The charges for the use of waterways are exorbitant compared with comparable European waterways, e.g. St. Petersburg to Petrozavodsk and back is $336 excluding pilotage chargesand involves only two river-fed locks. Charges are also made for lake transits!
When comparing prices with other waterways it should also be remembered both that yachts visiting Russia have usually travelled long distances from their home ports, incurring considerable expense, and that the Swedish and Finnish archipelago and Lake Saimaa offer very attractive cruising closer to hand. It should also be noted that the commercial traffic on Russian IWW is much lighter than on comparable western waterways so that interference to commerce by yacht movements is minimal.
We were shown the schedule of charges for a fast Finnish motor-yacht planning to visit Petrozavodsk from St. Petersburg. These totalled USD772, and did not involve bridge opening in St. Petersburg; for a mast-up passage the charge would be USD1002. For a slower yacht enjoying sailing in light winds and taking longer the charges would presumably be higher. We learnt later that this schedule had been declined and the voyage abandoned with total loss of revenue to the pilots and IWW authority. It is clear that few if any yachtsmen are prepared to pay such prices, especially when the freedom of itinerary is denied.
The charges do not take size of craft nor number on board into account. Thus a small yacht crewed by a retired husband and wife is expected to pay the same as for a large yacht with a big crew all contributing to expenses.
The writer navigated his yacht from St. Petersburg to Petrozavodsk and back without pilot in 1996, and from St. Petersburg to Moscow and back to Petrozavodsk with a Russian yachtsman under Russian flag in 1997; he continued back to St. Petersburg via Valaam under British flag with only his wife as crew, negotiating the Svir locks without difficulty. The Russian IWW are extremely well buoyed, provided with leading marks in both directions over most of their length, and accurately charted. Navigation is extremely straightforward and easy. Currents (except for a short stretch of the Neva which presents no problem to a reasonably powered yacht) are slight. There is absolutely no justification for a pilot, except through the St. Petersburg bridges at night for which the alternative of lowering masts and traffic-free transiting by day exists.
If Russia aspires to make income out of visiting yachtsmen the requirements for a pilot and detailed itinerary must be removed, and charges made comparable with similar western inland waterways. It would not however be unreasonable to demand a working knowledge of CEVNI rules (for which instructional courses, tests and certification already exists), and insist on third-party insurance. Foreign yachts should also be prepared to cooperate with Customs or Coast Guard by reporting suspected smuggling activity, as is done by Cruising Association members in the U.K.
The Director of the Vedlozero national park, Oleg Cherviakov, is currently (August 1999) seeking Western finance to develop its water tourism and leisure potential. Unless access is made attractive and relatively inexpensive such investment would be fruitless.
If you wish to support our objections - in both Russia's and yachtsmen's best interest - please email Ray Glaister