This account is put together from emails sent home during our most successful and enjoyable cruise, hence some use of present tense. We left England 17 May 1997 sailing via Kiel Canal, Fehmarnsund, Gedser, Rønne on Bornholm, Kalmar, Borgholm, Fårøsund, Nasva (Saaremaa, Estonia), Virtsu, Dirhami, Tallinn, Vergi, Narva-Jõesuu on Estonian/Russian border, arriving St. Petersburg 13 June.
Some dates and times are given in 6 digit format: DDHHMM, so 5 PM on 21st becomes 211700.
©Raymond Glaister 1997
We sailed from Lowestoft to St Petersburg, thence to Moscow and back via the River Neva, Lake Ladoga, River Svir, Lake Onega, Vitegra River, Volga-Baltic Canal (canalized rivers) with 6 locks taking us up to 113 metres ASL, across the almost circular 42km White Lake; then into the Rybinsk floodlands, a vast inland sea 145km long. The Volga flows through the south of this lake, to the SE going to the Black Sea and to the SW to Moscow. Finally through the Moscow Canal to within 40km by water of Moscow's City Centre. We took the direct route totalling 1344km. Returning we visited Kizhi island on Onega and the Valaam Monastery on Lake Ladoga.
Alerted by our GSM call from the customs post at Kronshlot, Vladimir Ivankiv, the Cruising Association's Honorary Local Representative in St. Petersburg, was waiting on the marina wall to welcome us on Friday evening and make us fast. He then took us into town where we soaked in the atmosphere; crowds enjoying the balmy night, still light at midnight.
Very sociable and enjoyable stay here in Central River YC. Vladimir has been a tremendous help. With his wife Alla he drove us to Pushkin on Saturday where we visited the splendid St. Catherine's Palace and enjoyed the beautiful park, with the trees providing welcome shade from a burning sun. On return we shopped in a modern supermarket (like ours but with a manual barcode reader!) and a cash and carry where we got very reasonably priced coke, beer and mineral water, before taking us to his home for a refreshing blackcurrant tea and to send two emails. His local calls are free but the service provider charges for air time, cheap as he doesn't have web software.
Greg Palmer, owner of Peter Duck (formerly Arthur Ransome's yacht) which had just been relaunched after wintering in the Naval YC, showed us round the Shtandart. This is a full size replica of Peter the Great's 1703 30m frigate Shtandart being built in a yard near the Smolny (Smolny means tarry, site of an ancient tar works) by volunteers; Greg is assistant project director with funding from the UK and mainly responsible for getting sponsorship funding. The pine is from Lindyloveky forest near Finland planted in 1738.
On Sunday evening we went to see a brilliant production of Rimsky-Korsakov's opera Sadko at the splendid Maryinsky Theatre. A cast of nearly 70 and orchestra of 56. Excellent Dress Circle seats for Rb 70,000 (£4.30)! We could have got seats in the gods for 30p.
Leonid Lesnevsky, the Russian professor we had met last year on the yacht Spray, and who had agreed to accompany us in Russia, had arrived from the overnight Moscow train early Sunday. Monday morning was spent making decisions. Lengthy discussions on the various options. The problem is that the waterway authorities have not rescinded the ban on foreign-flagged yachts which had been expected; permission is granted for specific events such as Blue Onego. We agreed three changes to our plan: we would go under Russian flag to Moscow (with Leonid Lesnevsky in nominal charge), and before exploring the lakes; we would lower our masts for the passage through the St. Petersburg bridges (as do most Russian yachts) and thus not need a pilot. Babaji will be renamed BABAI which is the fairy-tale witch that will get children who are naughty! I am cutting out the letters from self-adhesive sail number material imported from England. There are virtually no Russian-made products, even rope, in the chandleries here.
After lunch we had four hours aboard Peter Duck in the Naval YC basin with Greg Palmer. Peter Duck had just been launched after winter storage under the trees, and is in great shape. During these hours temperature fell from 25°C to a chilly 15°C as a Force 4 N wind suddenly arrived. Later went with Greg to a covered market and to the University where he lectures in English and history. In the evening Hanna Kolkstein came on board, and later we joined her and crew of the Lodya St. Nicholas that had just returned from a circumnavigation of the UK. Stops included The Cob and Charlestown! They will be returning to Petrozavodsk in time for the Blue Onego festival shortly; they had sailed direct from Inverness to Cuxhaven, then virtually direct to St. Petersburg, having no visas to land in-between.
On Tuesday night we went to a spectacular circus with clowns, riders doing acrobatics, monkeys, 13 siamese cats, dogs, bears, and sea lions, after having a Russian dinner with Greg. On Wednesday night we went to the Petersburg Mosaic Theatre of Music and Dance. Alternate dances and folk music during which dancers (5 girls & 4 boys) changed costumes, all brilliantly colourful, ending with incredibly energetic cossack dancing.
We were saddened on arrival in St. Petersburg to hear that Alan Logan (CA member since 1993) had died in April. He lived in the US for winter and France for summer and crewed for us in Russia last year. A former Consul-General in Moscow he had worked hard to promote the opening of Russia's inland waterways to foreign-flagged yachts.
Leonid returns from Moscow overnight with the necessary documentation for us to proceed. All being well we will lower masts tomorrow on trestles being made here and proceed. In fact had we decided to go with mast up we would have been stopped - the bridges did not open the last three nights as the North wind was too strong for ships to cross Lake Ladoga!
12 June 1997. All is set for our cruise to Moscow. Greg recommended a solicitor. His charge was £165 per hour but he recommended another firm one partner of which owns a yacht here and prepared a contract for chartering (in compliance with UK Board of Trade Bareboat Charter for ships) free of charge! The captain of his yacht provided a contact to the Inspectorate of Small Boats (GIMS) where we had our papers checked and paid 342,000 Roubles for a technical inspection (which will not actually occur) and registration. The documents are promised 0930 on Monday (23rd) since no work can be done over the weekend but since it is unlucky in Russia to start a voyage on a Monday (!!!) we should leave in the early hours of Tuesday and raise masts at Petrokrepost just before Lake Onega. We are booked into lower masts on Monday 1200 and were quoted $20. I offered $10 which was quickly accepted.
We had a Russian flag made out of spinnaker cloth for $8; there is a huge sail loft here with about five staff. I have started preparation for lowering our masts which has never been done before on Babaji. Leo has borrowed a River frequency VHF sets from Spray and checked that it works. These can be officially borrowed against a deposit of $300 which would be rather inconvenient. We now have all the charts (13!) we need.
Last night (21st) we had five Russians on board, and Margo made an excellent dinner for all, including "upside-down" pudding on pineapple rings. They politely had G&T but preferred Russian Peterhof beer (which is jolly good). Vladimir Leonov with his 12 year old English speaking granddaughter. Yuri Kabalkan (with his wife Galla), who has been a friend of Leonid for very many years, is shortly sailing to Great Yarmouth in 14m sloop Albatross to take part in the Tall Ships Race leg Aberdeen to Stavanger.
On Sunday morning we had a young sailing instructor from the Black Sea for breakfast to help him with his English; in return he took down both booms and removed the locking wire from all the bottle screws. Walked to the Sea YC (formerly Baltic Shipping YC) where we were welcomed like old friends. The loos are now clean, showers in good order, new mirrors above wash basins, good lunch in restaurant (fish salad, bread and beer for £1.39 ea.). Shown over Spray and Albatross and discussed possibility of them taking participating yachtsmen from UK to cruise from St. Petersburg to Ladoga Lake or on Onega Lake. This could provide a most attractive package for UK yachtsmen only able to spend 2 or 3 weeks in Russia. Completed removal of electrical connections to main mast.
(Moscow 8 June). On Monday 26th we visited the GIMS office near the Hermitage to get our inspection and registration certificates which permit us to use the inland waterways as a Russian-flagged yacht. Entered the Central YC's working harbour to lower masts. After lowering the mizzen mast we had to wait while crane supported a sinking yacht and a submersible pump was used to empty it. "Only" damage was the stripping of the anemometer cups. We paid $10 for the crane driver but a very kind 65-year old gentleman Constantine helped us handle masts; he asked that anything we were going to pay him should go to the crane driver who had a young family and little money. Many Russians are now unpaid. Later he returned smartly dressed and joined us on board; he knew the Neva and Lake Ladoga very well and recommended places to visit.
Left the YC basin at 260545, backing out carefully among tripping lines of yachts anchored bows-on. Motored up the River Neva under the seven St. Petersburg bridges in rain, but got a picture of Greg Palmer's Shtandart galleon under construction at Smolny. Under one bridge, and one of the only two such bridges, up-river craft take the left-hand arches where the current is less, resulting in interesting crossing with ships proceeding downstream. Quite a lot of shipping. Current over 4 knots at the narrow and shallow Ivanovsky Paroge rapids, but otherwise about 2 knots. Charted distance to Petrokrepost 57NM over which we logged 72NM. Entered the "new" canal (which skirts south of Ladoga Lake) and stopped alongside giant floating crane at 261500. Leonid negotiated Rb 50,000; these casual sums are their only income. The crane driver Sergei and assistant Dennis were superb and got the masts back without trouble. Afterwards I gave them Spice Girl posters with which they were delighted. We continued to replace booms, sails, electric's, etc. while they watched fascinated and lent me a very old-fashioned brace drill.
On Wednesday morning we walked into Petrokrepost and had to go to six shops to make about eight purchases: ingredients for Borsch, porridge, kvas (nicer than Coke and a natural product), Georgian wine (£2), a ladies watch (£7), etc.. We were here last year and it was unchanged except for post-rain mud! Before leaving the crane-driver gave me an illustrated book on the St. Petersburg to Moscow route. Left at 1340 against very strong current until in Lake Ladoga. The well-buoyed channel has been dredged through weed-covered shallows; to one side was the wreck of a motor yacht that had disregarded the leading marks. It was in the winter of 1942 that they built the "Road of Life" over the ice here to supply the besieged Leningrad. At the fairway buoy we set full sail making about 4 knots on the 75NM passage. Leonid prepared a delicious borsch for dinner, while Margo recorded the recipe. Dramatic thunderstorm and magnificent rainbow, but clear sky for sunset at 2324. Too light to see stars all night, just the moon and a planet. I type at 0300, nearly dawn (sunrise 0420) and light enough to read! On passage under sail across Lake Ladoga. Leonid amazed that our GPS and autopilot left him nothing to do, but readily accepted them!
To avoid duplication the account of the passage to Moscow, made under great pressure, is omitted; this is covered on our return passage.
We are moored near Yeltsin's huge yacht "Russia" in Moscow's Navy Club No 1, and nearer the town centre than the cruise ships go! Arrived unannounced 041800 to cautious welcome from Authority but great welcome from members amazed to see Blue Ensign flying! Two students took us by metro and trolleybus round Kremlin, Red Square, Arbat Street, Sparrow Hill above city, the new cathedral, etc. on Saturday and Sunday. Captain (Full) Alexander Vorentchev (ICCY representative Russia and President All Russia Yacht Racing Federation) took us to his home for dinner Sunday night (saw finals from Wimbledon on TV!).
Tania and Eugene Bogdanov took us to see the newly restored 1812 battle panorama (50m diameter) which he helped to restore with breathtaking reality, and to lunch in his mother's gracious flat on Arbat Street. Then to lovely Kolomensky park overlooking river with its stunning cathedrals and historic buildings moved from elsewhere. Driving on their 8 or 10-lane roads without lane discipline somewhat hairy at first!
New breathtaking Chram Christa Spasitelya (From Christ the Saviour) cathedral replacing that demolished by Stalin and converted to swimming pool will be completed (after only 3 years!) in September for Moscow's 850th celebration. Steeplejacks were putting the final touches on the brilliant golden domes. A huge new statue of Peter 1 now stands in Moscow river, not liked by locals. Resentment that e.g. Kaliningrad has few remaining churches and funding for its new cathedral is limited; also teachers etc. grossly underpaid. Two classes again, wealthy haves and poor have-nots. Fear that latter may vote communist again, for they were far better off under the Red Flag. Everywhere new building. Though Lesnevsky will not be able to return with us (daughter in hospital here) members are organizing crew for our return with changeover in Petrozavodsk. Set off again Wednesday. Met engineer last night on email who will send this.
Exhausting 10-day almost non-stop (except huge delays at locks) from St. Petersburg rewarded and at least we know what we face on return. Imported goods cost less than at home since no VAT and lower retail margins! Russian CDs 3 to 4 pounds.
Our last day in Moscow was among our busiest. Up at 0500 to complete email letter as a computer engineer had offered to send it, then buy water (the most expensive commodity here, $11 for 20 litres, more than diesel!). Our Estonian water has at last run out. Called on Director of the Naval Base/YC Yuri Victorouich Selichef to thank him for excellent hospitality (would not accept payment), gave him a suitably inscribed CA House Flag and got a YC cap, St. Andrews Cross Navy badge and pen in exchange. Then trolleybus to local shops beside Metro for food, and flowers for Leo's wife. Eugene and Tanya arrived 1230 and whisked us off to Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts, of the same high standard as the British Museum and with excellent restaurant where we had a fast four-course meal before going on to the Tretyakov Gallery, recently extended and beautifully restored with marble walls and floor. This has huge collection of excellent Russian art, little known outside Russia but highly influenced in 18/19th Century by European art, and arranged chronologically up to the Revolution. Our hosts were greeted by all the guides; Eugene is obviously very well known and respected. They gave us a hardback on the Art Treasures from Moscow Museums, a super reminder of what we have seen, and to ensure we return to see what we'd missed!
Big crew meeting on return. A young neurosurgeon Vladimir who knows the Moscow Canal well will accompany us at least to Petrozavodsk (Onego) having conveniently just begun his annual leave, while a mechanic Vadim (with no English) may accompany us to St. Petersburg. A social whirl followed, with fond farewells to Leo, Eugene and Tanya, one member showing us all the yacht anchorage's to Onega, another offering spring water, Yuri Pugach arriving with Cyrillic fonts (he had 100 but gave us the most common) and took Email to send; very pleased to have a YM in exchange. Has offices in Moscow and Kaliningrad, and small yachts in both places. Prefers Kaliningrad for sailing as more wind and much sooner out to sea. Vladimir gave us 50L of diesel and bought us a further 50L for only Rb20,000, so tank full plus reserve. Cryogenicist Vlad had bought a hat with Venezia on it in Venice, and subsequently named his new yacht Venezia to go with the hat!
Vladimir (with mother, aunt and champagne) and Vadim arrived 0615. Set off 090645 on a scorcher, reaching 35°C by 1800, but barometer falling fast to 968Hpa, increasing cloud giving cooler evening. Lunch at top lock (No 6). Lengthy delays as usual interspersed with fast runs to keep up with lock-companions, making only 15km and 4 locks in nearly 12 hours. Unusual to have keen helmsman as crew so reconnected and tested radar and VHF. Lady lock-keeper at lock 3 told us to put on lifejackets as River Police launch below lock; but they took no interest! Made only 65NM and 5 locks in 18 hours anchoring in quiet reservoir above Moscow Lock 1.
Cleared Lock 1 101200, only one mile all morning! 78NM by 110020 when anchored just above Uglich lock. Miraculously cleared it next morning without delay and re-anchored bows-on below cathedral where four monks gave a lovely unaccompanied recital filling church with harmony. Returned to find hydroelectric station (used to generate at peak hours) stopped and bows well and truly aground. Stern anchor dragged so got a pedalo to take out a CQR on long warp! Saved by a pedalo!! Bought diesel from naval cadet training ship, showing Captain and Navigator our instruments, all very jolly. Arrived Rybinsk floodlands 2150 but quite rough so anchored overnight. Set off 120500 and managed 3 hours under sail across this 100km lake until wind dropped. Berthed once again between passenger terminals in Cerepovets.
13 July. Changed oil and fan belt, provisioned, set off 1130. Found our boys had been washing in our 50cent/litre water and tank dry! Anchored in lovely bay in river and boys went off for spring water (found) and milk (only found cows).
15 July. Left at 0430 with boys asleep; fog patches, and caught up a slowly moving Volganeft creeping through fog. Arrived at Lock 6 1015 and told to bring documents to lock. Nearest landing place was floating dredger pipes and 15-minute walk, so we missed lock, and eventually cleared at 1645, six good hours wasted. But lock-keeper, on hearing from Margo that it was my birthday, gave me lovely bouquet of flowers. Had birthday cake with three nightlights. Just made Lock 1 at sunset, mooring on same quay in Vytegre as on outward passage.
16 July. Filled water tank from cold spring water. Bought diesel. Seeing goats Margo asked to buy milk, but this turned out to be very good cows milk. Vadim bought an enormous jar of cranberries. Shopping. Left 1630 for night passage to Chalskiy on River Vodla. Anchored bows-on to private jetty at 170415.
17 July. Woke to find the owner's children watching us. Their father welcomed us and invited us to moor alongside. Left 1200 sailing NW to approach Kizhi from north through zigzag route through islands. Explored north end of island, rich in wild flowers, new to us, while boys made dinner. Margo painted the northern church. Boys explored until 0100.
18 July. Centre of attraction when a cruise ship came in alongside us! Cycled on Kizhi and had swim from beach near the ancient sauna which we used for changing. Left at 1200 arriving Polar Odyssey centre in Petrozavodsk to a hero's welcome from Victor and bear hug from Yuri. Victor had met Yeltsin and the President of Karelia at a fishing expedition on 10 June where Yeltsin had agreed to rescind prohibition of foreign yachts under their own flag in inland waterways. Got copy of decree dated 27 June ratifying this. Shown personal letter from Yeltsin. Promptly revoked Babaji's charter, exchanged Ensigns, and removed our Russian name! British again!
19 July. Vadim's friend who was to replace Vladimir and Vadim as interpreter for the return to St. Peterrsburg arrived from Moscow but spoke no significant English! Decided to continue alone and see how we fared with the locks. Left at 1500 and tied-up in Ribreka harbour at 2245, getting fuel from a patrol vessel.
20 July. Left just before sunrise at 0425. Stopped on Coast Guard quay at Voznesen'e where the River Svir leaves Onega at 0915 while Margo shopped at a kiosk. Arrived top lock 1800 to find another small boat already waiting. Locked through with two other small boats and six motorboats, all returning from their dachas, one with load of hay. Just made lower lock by sunset. Called on radio in English to alert them. Light changed to green as it left so we entered and descended by ourselves. No problem. Thanked dispatcher with a bolshoyer sparciba, and wished her dobra notchet. Tied up against old wooden quay below bridge, and checked-out by night watchman with Sheltie dog, so secure night. Unbelievable progress, 114NM and 2 locks!
21/22 July. Left 210630. No ships in Sviritsa so unable to refuel, running engine at 1500 rpm to conserve. Cleared fairway buoy 1240 with 68NM to east end of Valaam archipelago. Wind dead ahead within a few degrees! At 220550 entered the narrow winding creek into Valaam, passing Spray anchored bows-on below the church on Nikop'skiy island on which stands the leading mark and lighthouse. Anchored in 5m, explored, then right down below monastery mooring against fishing boat that sold us diesel (very welcome!) and fish! Correctly dressed we watched a special service in the monastery church where young children were taking their first communion. Only Russians were coming here by ferry from the mainland or cruise ships in the main anchorage to the west. Left at 1220 for the River Vuoksa on west coast where we got warm welcome from a large Russian yacht in the marina. No charge.
23 July. East wind through night had built 1 metre sea on Ladoga, but this gradually declined. Enough wind for sailing for a while but to reach Petrokrepost by sunset at 2230 had to motor again. 87NM in 15 hours. Berthed against a tanker in the canal, and took on 110 litres diesel.
24 July. Quick run down Neva reaching passenger terminal above first bridge at 1245. Called at Pilots office who told us charge for bridges now $250; we paid $50 last year. Had we known we would have lowered mast again. We barely had $50 left, so after leaving note "back 1730" took metro into town where mercifully a machine gave us $400. Returned at 1750 to find the rightful river boat owner of the jetty with just room to disembark passengers, and two policemen standing over Babaji! But they took it well and we left in 1 minute to berth alongside a crane on the north bank that gave us diesel. We are faring much better under the Red Ensign! 'Phoned Sasha Maximadji (couldn't get hold of Ivankiv) and he came over to see us at 2000, 'phoning the main pilot office and getting indication that negotiation possible. Phoned Ivankiv later who agreed to join us to negotiate next morning.
25/26 July. Had to move as our berth was moving, and reberthed in horribly shallow water alongside a vessel off a pumping station.
Told the chief pilot that they would kill UK yachts coming inland with their preposterous charges, and got reduction to $86. The fact that we had left as a Russian-registered yacht and returned as a Brit. caused their bureaucracy a big problem, but delighted me; we kept jolly throughout. They do take themselves rather seriously. After much photocopying of documents we got our pilotage documents, which no-one asked to see. A PC in the office had Internet on its menu, and (apparently permanently on-line) I got my (Russian) home pages on it within seconds! They were terribly impressed.
Moved back to berth against the reproduction 6-gun sailing warship "Courier" on the forbidden jetty at 2300 and we both took on pilots. We were the penultimate vessel in the west-bound convoy, followed only by Courier (who was anchoring off the Peter and Paul fortress for Navy Day celebrations). The pilot treated us like a ship interspersing periods of full ahead with dead slow and expecting me to keep straight course in powerful eddies at 2 kts. The bridge openings are about 40m wide and despite cross currents are really no problem. He found us a quiet berth opposite the Central YC for a few hours sleep. Bureaucracy having dictated that we would need another pilot had we left via the bridges on the route to the docks, we had to go out to "sea" in water 2-3 m to get to the deep sea passenger terminal and Navy 55 YC. Received a very warm welcome, boats being moved as we approached to give us an alongside berth in sight of their 24-hour security. Offered water and fuel and asked if we had an ensign to fly on their huge flag staff. We had, and soon our enormous Red Ensign was flying! Much dinghy racing in progress with Optimists, Cadets etc.
27 July. Navy Day. Much activity with 12 rowboats in tow to go off racing, etc. Trolleybus into town where saw the famous light-houses with big gas flames and Courier circling and firing broadsides. I joined the local sun-worshippers for a while on the Neva beach outside the fortress and swam. Walked and enjoyed atmosphere.
28 July. Visited Russia Museum today. Vladimir took us shopping by car.
We left St. Petersburg 29 July knowing we had unsettled weather but unable to get a proper forecast before the customs island Kronshlot. Here we were told a gale was due at 1500 and indeed we had wind then and delayed departure until 1800 with only Force 2. This increased overnight to SW Force 4/5 headwind giving a most unpleasant 3/4 metre sea and nightmare sailing with me on constant duty. At 0315 there was a terrific crash and I thought bad navigation had wrecked us on rocks, but we had 32m under us and were still afloat! It seems we may have hit a rogue buoy (one was euphemistically recorded as "off-station" from St. Petersburg on Navtex) as the only slight damage is to the (fendered) gunwale and some internal structure, suggesting we had been squeezed an inch. It was a great relief to get into Haapasaari, the island with the Finnish Customs Station.
We then sailed through the archipelago to Helsinki where we spent three nights with friends, Hanko, then long legs to Visby (Sweden), Kristiansand, Karlskrona for dinner with some more good friends, Simrisham, Klintholm (Denmark), Fehmarnsund (Germany) again, Kiel Canal, Cuxhaven, Orford (England) arriving 17 August after 3 months cruising and around 4500NM.
Ray and Margo Glaister
©Raymond Glaister 1997
Last updated 4 September 1997