Monday 30 June - Præstø to Nyord, 55N2.4, 12E11.6, 19NM
Early swim, then cycled into "town" for pictures in sunshine, and supermarket. Left at 1225 for complex route with 15 waypoints. This took us over the Normanshage Sanden with only 2m, eerie to see the sandy bottom when over a mile out at sea. Then SE to the buoyed channel and Bøge Strøm to the 6m wide Nyord harbour entrance with echosounder alarm going continuously. Later told that the thick kelp on the bottom reduced the apparent depth. Delightful harbour and idyllic unspoilt village. After an exploratory walk called on the harbourmaster, a retired architect. He had left us a note saying would we drop in Kr85 if back after he closed at 21hr.. He was very enthusiastic about the white cliffs of Møn which we must visit! Niels, who had invited us to "his" island, where his boat was already comfortably alongside the quay, called to invite us to tea at his farmhouse tomorrow. Called at inn for drink at 2145 to find it closed; it only stays open if customers remain! Lovely evening walk up to Pilot House on hill behind village to see glorious red sunset over fields of barley. There were formerly 10 pilots before modern buoyage and dredged channels.
Tuesday 1 July - in Nyord Wild night.
To Niels at 2 who had freshly baked rolls and been into Stege to buy cake. He has inherited his great grandfathers (a pilot) farmhouse. Then cycled over bridge onto Møn into Stege, very hot. Inspected marina, too late to see into massive 13th century brick church. Rain so sheltered in Church office, secretary showing us pictures of church. Up bird watching tower. 30km round trip! Bonny Girl came in.
Wednesday 2 July - Nyord to Vordingborg (55N0.3, 11E55.0), 16NM
Left at 1030 unable to avoid mass of weed in narrow harbour entrance which almost stopped engine. Cleared prop by going astern. Complex but well buoyed route. Thunderstorm as we passed under second bridge and tied up alongside quay in pouring rain. Soon cleared with much fresher air as we went up into town to clear email in library; printer alongside PC, Kr1 pp, and shop at Spar. Margo found wool shop, much cheaper than at home. Climbed the 30m Goose Tower (built 1356) while Margo sketched it.
Thursday 3 July - strong wind in Vordingborg
Bought oil and fresh bread at local garage at 8 but faced with prospect of strong headwind (near-gale warning issued 1000) decided to stay in the shelter of Vordingborg. Nice swim before breakfast. Cycled to railway station for Times and to library for Internet. Explored castle ruins. Visited church too late (12-15). Long laptop session to get up-to-date with log, etc. and download digital pictures. Walked W along shore to enormous 400 year-old barns and huge mansion still belonging to the land owner.
Friday 4 July - another near gale warning!
Up early to ensure getting Times at railway station, and fresh rolls for breakfast. Heavy rain nearly all day, a lovely day for ducks my mother used to say and there were three mallards paddling in a huge puddle near the boat. Spent morning cleaning inside, then up to church at 1300 to find a service in progress. Visited library again for Internet (5 PC’s) and did some shopping including a Danish/English dictionary but the service was still under way at 1330. Margo made excellent stew accompanied by Merlot. Texted Bonny Girl with response they were holed up on Femø after rough passage. Left again in downpour to see Church of Our Lady (Vor Frue Kirke) before it closed at 1500; in fact verger took pity on Margo who had just arrived and showed us round after hours. It is notable for the mischevios painting of Jeppe the Bricklayer of around 1460 but quickly painted out until uncovered in 1931 to merriment of the churchgoers. There is also a 5 degree bend between chancel and nave "because chancel was temporarily bricked up during building of the nave and they failed to make it straight". Also interesting were the bricked-up clerestory windows since these are hidden by the tiled roof, except for one by the organ which has a roof light beyond it. 2200 pipe organ.
Saturday 5 July -Vordingborg to Vejrø
(55N0.21, 11E22.5), 25NM
Up to station for Times finding the main pedestrianised shopping
street laid out with long tables and chairs for free breakfast whilst
being entertained by a jazz band! Apparently the traditional start to
their festival week. So on return we were able to leave as soon as the
bikes were stowed. Leaving the sheltered water of Vordingborg to the open
sound to pass under the huge bridge the sea became fairly rough with
strong headwind against a knot of stream. Vejrø is the northermost
of the three main islands between Sjaelland and Lolland. The wind dropped
as we approached giving a slight sea. The harbour was almost empty on
arrival at 1530 but became quite full by the evening. Walked two thirds of
the perimeter of the island, starting from the light house, with
continuous wild roses on the NW side. The interior was like English
countryside. The island is managed by a couple who have given up farming
and make their living from the marina (very careful to collect all the
dues, coming round late) and restaurant in the summer and from hunting
(deer, pheasant and hares) in the winter. We ordered fresh rolls for
breakfast which were ready at 0730.
Sunday 6 July - Vejrø to Spodsbjerg
(54N56.0, 10E44.0), 25NM
Left at 9 going North for a mile to clear the shallows before turning West
and finally 235° to Buoy DW49 5M NE of Spodsjberg. This gave a short
crossing of the Route H and busy Route T. It also gave good clearance to
the offshore wind farms off NW Lolland. It blew up as we entered
Spodsjberg and we chose an unnecessarily wide box but another boat helped
pull us back to the upwind post and we were soon secure. The wind
strenghtened as more and more German yachts poured in, some making a real
hash of it, one nearly knocking out a post. They are always keen to lie
alongside another German. A great spectacle! They tend to have yachts
signalling their wealth rather than their sailing skills. They had built a
new marina, S of the old fishing harbour, since our previous visit, with
excellent facilities. The entrance is however rather inconspicuous
compared with the ferry dock immediately N. Spodsjberg has a big
supermarket and a nice bathing beach, but little else.
Monday 7 July - Spodsbjerg to Bagankop (54N45.1,
10E40.5), 20NM and Marstal (54N51.0, 10E31.5), 10NM
Left 0900 to sail down W coast of Langeland, meeting the German invasion
fleet on the way, then rounded the southern end with its unexpected cliffs
(Downs Klint) falling back to sea level on their landward side, then up
North to Bagenkop. The Post Office, situated in the supermarket, had our
letter from Alison and Hilary, posted in France. Bagenkop has a very smart
marina (alongside the Kiel ferry terminal) with Internet café, TV
room, etc., but apart from changing rooms for swimming and a swimming
bridge, has little else. It had also become very hot! We therefore left to
cross the Marstal Bugt (8NM) to the fairway buoy for the dredged channel
to Marstal. Lay alongside a large wooden yacht where a Danish couple (and
their golden retriever) made us very welcome.
Despite the vast 800-place marina, Marstal turned out to be the nicest
place we’d been to so far! Almost all old buildings of irregular
size, architecture and colour along cobbled streets, with interesting old
shops. The church has a large white tower carrying a copper cupola with
four clock faces; uniquely the clock faces were faced with glass. Returned
via the water front where there were six or so schooners; apparently they
pay no harbour dues to provide a visitor attraction. The harbourmaster
told us they had 300 visiting yachts at present. Averaging over Kr100 each
a useful revenue!
Tuesday 8 July - Marstal to Ærøskøbing
on Ærø (54N53.5, 10E24.8), 15NM
Into town for fresh rolls for breakfast. Visited church, many large
sailing ship models suspended, medieval font. Original blue pews (for sea)
and red pulpit (Christ’s blood). Contrasting modern organ with silver
pipes in open-fronted boxes above balcony. Left at 1410 for Ærøskøbing
which is only 4NM NW up the coast, but involves following 6NM of wiggely
narrow channel and ticking off the laterals and cardinals as they are
passed. Heavy rain reduced visibility during this, but at least washed off
the salt spray! Entered the marina first but found it full with boats two
or three abreast against the alongside berths, so went into the Haven next
to it lying alongside a Danish yacht in a quiet corner. The couple have
come to the same place for 12 years and visit Marstal by bus.
Ærøskøbing turned out to be a quieter version of
Marstal, despite the ferry, but this may have been partly the weather.
Some attractive looking restaurants, many pottery shops and a big
open-ended hall with individual artists.
Wednesday 9 July - Ærøskøbing
to Faaborg (55N5.6, 10E14.4), 24NM via Lyø
Leisurely morning taking photos while Margo sketched (flash not allowed
in the church), then repaired our neighbours water pump on Swing
with Fernet Branca for medicinal purposes and beers. Hans and Hetti
recommended going to Lyø, a romantic and tiny island, before
Faaborg. However we entered this minscule harbour at 1615 in a strong
cross-wind to find all boxes occupied and three deep at the end. By going
alongside these yachts we were able to turn and beat a hasty retreat
without discovering the island’s romantic secret. Fortunately I
already had the route plan for Faaborg and arrived in the harbour (advised
it was always preferable to use a commercial harbour rather than marina
(charges are the same)) at 1730 tying up alongside a lovingly restored
1912 sailing fishing boat. Explored town; what we thought was the church,
and is conspicuous from the harbour, turned out to be just a tower, the
large church having an insinificant spire. We were surprised to find this
open at 2100, and listened to a capacity audience participating in jazz
hymn singing, the number as we entered in English. Met a Dutch couple who
asked us where we came from and said did we know his sister Mrs Heslop who
used to live in Orford?!! Small world!
Thursday 10 July - Faaborg to Svendborg (55N3.7,
10E36.9), 24NM
Beautiful day with fair weather cumulus. Left berth at 1015 meeting Fair
Rose of Sharon en route. Passed under bridge, where the direction of
buoyage reverses. Fortunately we had been told this, as chart 152 has no
detail for Svendborg Sund, presumably intending you to buy the large scale
chart 171. We chose the commercial harbour and found this fairly full at
1500 since a wooden boat festival commences tomorrow. Berthed alongside a
Dutch wooden yacht with a very agile single-hander with an artificial leg.
Ahead we had a Red Ensign belonging to a Norwegian live-aboard with
English wife, and ahead of them under Danish flag a Geordie with Danish
wife who had lived 40 years in Denmark. The Norwegian had just bought a
house in Kesgrave! An automat takes Kr100 notes and issues smart cards
that open doors, operate the showers (charging Kr5) and washing machines
(charging Kr30, etc.); on leaving the marina the machine issues refund of
nalanced in coins. Svendborg is really a city, with some similarity to
Copenhagen, but spacious with low-rise buildings. Much of shopping centre
pedestrianised. One of the two churches, Our Saviour’s Church, was
full of scaffolding and is evidently having a major face-lift. The
cathedral was closed until tomorrow. A windmill was visible above the town
so we set off to find it; after retracing steps from several dead-ends we
found it just as the sun was setting. A jazz band with singer (mainly in
American) plays on the harbour-side. Let Margo into ladies showers with
card to realize that she needed to insert the card at shower. She got a
lady to get her husband to find me showering and get the card! Met Hans
and Hetti who had just sailed in.
Friday 11 July - Svendborg to Rudkøbing,
(54N56.3, 10E42.3), 9NM
Beautiful morning but soon became hot. Showers, Margo starting her shower
then bringing the card out to me. Visited St. Nicholai cathedral, entering
under a modern organ which was being tested, very mellow ittone. Very long
(horizontal) trumpet pipes, would be great to hear them. Pulpit 1585,
first pastor 1536. Margo fatally bought a sun hat; already the sky was
being veiled by altostratus, portending the rain to come. Cleared up all
my email in bibliotek, some way from the town centre. Left at 1200 as the
harbour was already getting crowded, a large part having been cleared for
the wooden yachts. The stream in the harbour soon became 2.5 to 3 knots so
ran at 1800 revs to achieve 4 knots good. The buoyed channel seemed to
wander more than the complex sound; good to be out in open water again.
Made for start of buoyed channel under the main arch of the bridge, then
to the commercial harbour. We were the second boat in the harbour, apart
from a museum boat. Had to berth with bows under its bowsprit to get our
cable to reach the power outlet!
Saturday 12 July - in Rudkøbing
Strong winds continue with near gale warning for Kattegat and Skaggerak.
To Museum to enquire about Ørsted, born at Apotek here with fine
statue outside. Ørsted discovered electromagnetism. Margo bought
Ecco shoes in sale. Had beer while Margo painted timbered houses. Spoke to
man repointing brickwork in old Customs House; wife (Meta) came out and
invited us in for coffee. He (William) bought house 25 years ago when
working in Sydney as marine architect and had worked for Hurley Boats in
Plymouth (apparently Hurley couldn’t sail and Willian took out
customers!) and just been to 3-day wedding of his cousin (who lives in
Bath) on Black Sea! Had been ice-sailing last winter first for some time
with sea ice thick enough. Bonny Girl texted from Femø.
Nice evening walk past huge windmill being restored into adjacent country
with goats; town very quiet.
Sunday 13 July - Rudkøbing to Lohals
55N8.12, 10E54.2, 13NM
Called on William and Meta to say goodbye, photographing them in the tiny
garden they had made by putting a metre of soil over the old courtyard.
They picked cherries for us and gave us enough langoustines for our
dinner. Left at 1120 and they quickly caught us up in their trimaran,
which they keep on a mooring off the beach, to wish us good luck! Lohals
is the most northerly harbour on Langeland. We arrived in good time (too
good!) to get a good place alongside the wall, facilitating unloading
bikes, but by night there were five yachts attached to us! Cycled to the
Hov Fyr. Going up the circular staircase in the tower (42 steps) into the
light itself. Good view of Omø across the sound. Then cycled to the
most northerly tip of the island, partly through a beautifully cool and
dark forest. Had a well-earned swim on return. Little to recommend a stay
apart from good bakery.
Monday 14 July - Lohals to Nyborg (55N18.6,
190E47.5) 13NM and Kerteminde (55N27.2, 10E40.0) 17NM
Got fresh bread and rolls. Left at 1015 after 4 of our attached yachts
had left. Night NE wind and had to motor all day. Arrived Nyborg 1245 and
found an almost empty former fishing hr. with new serviced pontoon so
filled up with water. A train crossed the road diagonally, the guard
leaping out to stop the road traffic! Fine brick church. Large brick
castle (closed on Mondays) in attractive grounds. Visited Bibliotek nearby
for Internet session. Left at 1505, temp 30C. Under the West bridge,
unnecessarily going out to highest arch (20m). Arrived Kerteminde at 1825.
Huge marina, tied up alongside an unoccupied Beneteau on end of Bro 7.
Explored very attractive town with strongly tidal river and old shop
Hokeren. The grain silo on this had been visible all afternoon.
Tuesday 15 July - in Kerteminde
Lovely swim off slowly deepening sand beach, almost to ourselves at 0745.
Called at PO abortively, bibliotek for Internet session, and Information
Office to enquire about getting to Ladby to see the Viking Ship and
Odense. Cycled 5km to Ladby through lovely agricultural land with black
and white timbered farm buildings.
The Viking burial ship was very like that at Sutton Hoo found a few years
later but they had managed to preserve the remains in an air-conditioned
vault and rebuild the mound above it. The site had been desecrated and the
human remains removed, possibly for a Christian burial, and the few
valuable items removed to Copenhagen. But the anchor and chain, the oldest
known, remain.
Bought a fine strawberry cake for my birthday cake. Returned for another
swim to find the most crowded beach I'd ever seen. But plenty of room in
the sea. Air temp 27C but lovely breeze. Had a really excellent birthday
dinner at the Sailing Club overlooking the marina.