Wednesday 28th June 2003
Excellent 0950 Ryanair flight to Gothenburg, arriving a little early. Airport bus into the City then short wait for express bus to Stenningssund, and short wait for bus to Ronnang arriving ten minutes before the boatyard closed at 4 not to reopen until Friday! They collected our heavy bags from the bus stop. The boat was dry and warm and we got everything on board and the cockpit cover off before an early night.
On Thursday (Ascension Day public holiday) Reinstalled the instruments and reconnected water pipes. Got the bikes out to cycle to viewpoint overlooking the outlying islands, and plan to return with camera and paintbox. Got mast steps ready to ascent mast.
On Friday Margo hauled me up mast (I helping with the maststeps) to replace anemometer and bring down the rather frayed stainless steel halyard that holds the genoa in place. More comfortable descent than when we have assistance! The men were back and we bought antifouling (they only had red this year so our nice blue is covered), and got one coat on plus another above waterline. Installed the new VHF with digital selective calling. If you lift a cover and press a button 3 seconds it sends out an automatic May Day with exact position from the GPS. The yard’s crane engine is using so much oil that they have got a replacement engine and plan to install this before launching us. They are a bit laid back and left promptly at 4 today for the week end
On Saturday I test ran the engine and found the astern gear in need of adjustment. It only engaged at high revs! Got out and stowed the liferaft and inflatable. Stocked up at supermarket. Walked up the 165 steps to the hill with TV tower and commanding view, although revealing an uninhabited rocky plateau "inland". Tjorn is of course an island, but Sweden’s second largest.
On Sunday a relatively easy day; greased the stopcocks, got mizzen up. The other two sails await the repaired halyard and removal of the mast steps. Very hot and had first swim off lovely shallow sandy beach, a good 10 metres before getting out pdq! Cabin over 30 degrees on return.
Monday 2 June - launched! The yard were about to change the traction engine of their mobile crane and offered us chance to launch at 10 or wait until Thursday so got shipshape PDQ. Motored round to the yard’s free mooring with mast steps still in place. Cycled 9km to Skarhamn to use free Internet access in public library; they had three PCs with access but no other software (so couldn’t use my discs) and one with Word etc only. Tuesday 3 June - in Rönnäng Waiting for stainless steel wire to arrive at sailmaker. Another trip to Skarhamn for email and to buy a water pump impellor to replace existing one with one blade cracked. Found new halyard hanging on sailmakers door knob at 1900, the time he promised to complete it.
Wednesday 4 June - Rönnäng to St Dyrön (57N55.8, 11E36.2), 1 NM
Up mast to install new furling genoa halyard. Cycled round to sailmaker and presented with enormous bill including Kr740 for winter storage of two sails we’d left for repair. He tore up his bill and asked for Kr1000 so I didn’t feel we’d left on best of terms but he hadn’t said he charged for storage, otherwise I would have asked him to leave them in the yards building (where we leave all the electronics). Packed up bikes and said goodbye to Boss and Lars. Left at 1500 to cross to Dyrön, our favourite island from last year. Asked a lady driving a three-wheeler delivery bicycle the way to the shop and she said sit on and took us there! Discovered library with free Internet connection open so read and answered emails!
Thursday 5 June - on Dyrön
Easy day repeating the delightful coastal trail between harbours. Watched a dance around a Midsommer Stang especially put on for international visitors who came over on ferry. Took the newly opened trail with steps and bridges to hilltop overlooking Astol.
Friday 6 June - St Dyrön to Marstrand (57N53.1, 11E35.2), 4 NM
Marstrand very quiet after last August! Talisker came in direct from Aberdeen shortly after us, with two past-Commodores of CCC (Nick Wright and Hugh Morrison, and another CCC member Barry Smith, also Nick’s daughter Susie and Kirstie, Sandy Taggart’s daughter). Ferry over to mainland for bank and shopping. Glorious walk around entire island, Margo stopping for a painting. Drinks on board Talisker.
Saturday 7 June - Marstrand to Källö Knippla (57N45.0, 11E39.3), 11 NM
We had been highly recommended this island by a Swede, but either we had different tastes or they knew -little of Bothuslan, as could find nothing to recommend it! Almost entirely built-on, and only a small shop and kiosk. A free car ferry brought commuters cars, and the harbour got horribly crowded, our stern buoy being shared with three yachts. However the children were quiet and all was quiet by 2300.
Sunday 8 June - Källö Knippla to Gotebörg, Lilla Bommen (57N42.7, 11E57.8), 15 NM
Left at 1100 and had sea to ourselves! Arrived 1240 and found most of the shops in the shopping centre open. Talisker arrived early afternoon and we had the men round for drinks (Vodka and beer) after dinner, a jolly evening.
Monday 9 June - in Gotebörg
Phoned Ingrid in Karlskrona to ask her for Bo’s telephone number. Phoned Bo for advice on my CD-ROM driver problem and he downloaded the "missing" driver from the web, and brought it round as he was coming into the city. In preparing the laptop for him I inserted the Windows CD-ROM and to my amazement it opened it and there was the Z-drive restored! I told Bo his curative effect must have preceded him but at least we had real coffee and a good chat! After he left I loaded the Nokia Data Suite and soon had my on-board email working again, what a relief! Good walk through botanical gardens, rhododendrons in good shape but rose garden not ready.
Tuesday 10 June - Gotebörg to Lerkil (57N27.3, 11E54.9), 23 NM
Wind against stream gave slight chop which disappeared when we turned SW off the main shipping channel, passing through a J80 race. Got the sails up and enjoyed 100 minutes sailing on a 6mile leg until we reached the nearly 90deg turn in narrow sounds between islands; although the GPS was spot on I like to use Mk 1 eyeball navigation and was relieved when the only navigational feature, a white varde, appeared! Warm welcome from the Lerkil harbourmaster, who showed us the facilities on a concrete barge. Showers gave 40 seconds of hot water for a Krone! Lerkil is primarily a residential marina, nearest shop being 6km, and with little to see. Import flashy shrink-packed speed boats from Poland. But a useful intermediate point between Gotebörg and Varberg.
Wednesday 11 June - Lerkil to Varberg (57N27.3, 11E54.9), 23 NM
Torrential rain in night, slightly misty morning with W 3 to 4. Sailed all day doing 28nm in exactly 6 hours. Sun made valiant effort but fine evening after arrival. Quite a rough and tiring sea, so took 30 minute tricks at helm. Sighted only four yachts, all on same reciprocal course. Shopped at Konsum in new shopping mall. Walked around castle, with commanding view over harbour. Danish ferries come in here. Fine town built around an enormous square with church on one side.
Thursday 12 June - "galebound" in Varberg
Windy night, quieter in morning, but near-gale warning reported for this evening so stayed put. Up mizzen mast to refix Navtex aerial which had been hanging loose. Found top bolt on Firdell Blipper missing so had to re-ascend! Margo shopped and found Telegraph at station. Cycles out and bought new axle and bearings for my front wheel. Margo sketched castle. Cycled around castle to lighthouse, a cylindrical tower dated 1934. Segregated men and ladies nude bathing areas and fine bathing beach, with electric hoist for chair-bound people. Interesting day as alongside us demonstrations of two 50-person liferafts given to police. They all piled into one. A diver was used to recover the cannisters from the harbour bottom, and a (Norsaff of Arendal, Norway) lifeboat from Stena Nortica used to bring them ashore. A mobile crane was used to lift the liferafts ashore, then specialist firm to pump out air and repack them in their cannisters. All this may have been the mandatory annual maintenance for them. The Lots (pilot) boat, police vessel, störäddning (SAR), coast guard vessel were also involved! Fortunately all was finished and the Nortica sailed before further rain.
Friday 13 June - still "galebound" in Varberg
Further gale warning came in at 0400, so we have a third day. Glorious but windy day. Shopped, used Internet in very fine library. Visited castle museum which houses clothing and "body" of Boksten man preserved in bog since C14th, and brass button said to be musketball that killed Charles XIII, but nothing else of significance. Cycled to bathing place but a bit rough for us!
Saturday 14 June - Varberg to Falkenberg (56N53.8, 12E29.7), 23 NM
Busy morning, went to library to receive email and print one, to castle for photo, "Village"shop to buy Danish teapot that fits in a cup, crafts shop to buy wool and brushes, huge market in the square, supermarket. Wind dropped during morning so set for Falkenberg at 1400 with one reef soon shaken out. Averaged nearly 6kt on fine reach ending with a run, arriving 1800 in glorious evening. Tied up alongside shortly before bridge in shelter of trees. The duty YC member Raul who collected our 80Kr remembered us from a casual meeting in Fiskeback last year and turned out to be Sales Manager for an oil company with a grease cartridge in the back of his car! We do fall on our feet! Evening walk through the old part of town, with houses from 1754 and church from 1787. Margo sketched it.
Sunday 15 June - Falkenberg to Torekov (56N25.7, 12E37.5), 33 NM
Beautiful morning with light W/NW wind so made an early start. Just under 8 hours for 33nm, gradually clouding over, rain holding off until we got back from a walk during which M sketched church. Bought smoked mackerel and gravelax. The proprietor told us the salmon used to be buried for a while, hence the name; he assured us their salmon had not been buried. It was jolly good with ryvita. Explored town and realized we had been here before, remembering leading mark beside church. Rain turned to deluge, I getting soaked going for a shower! Used PFH to get dry.
Monday 16 June - Torekov to Högenäs (56N11.9, 12E32.9), 22NM
North wind took us on reach round the cliffs of the Kullen peninsula, then a near run SSE down the coast. Speed fell to 3kts so fired up but on seeing a British yacht Bonny Girl entering Högenäs decided to call it a day at 1500. Of course the wind got up in the narrow confines of the large marina as we looked for a box with green ledigt till plate, finally finding one on the outer mole. Fine sandy beach with three bridges for swimmers. First went shopping stocking up for Denmark in the belief that it is more expensive there, then an Internet session in the fine (as ever) library; these free calls establish whether or not I need to go into the Internet via my laptop. Walked round to the pontoon where Bonny Girl and Northern Gypsy were lying side by side, both from Upnor.
Tuesday 17 June - Högenäs to Helsingborg Nordhavn (56N2.9, 12E41.2), 14NM
Climbed 133 steps to the base of the 14th century castle then 46 wooden steps to its door and 142 up a spiral staircase to a splendid panoramic view over the Öresund to Helsingør. A group of people were demonstrating 14th century ways of making flour and butter, and use of herbs. Listened to an organ lesson on the magnificent 1959 organ in St. Mary’s church completed in 1450. i office told us there was an open air concert in the Ramlösa Brunnspark at 1950 so we set off on bikes to find it. Unfortunately the bicycle roads departed from the motorway type of road and we got pretty well lost but eventually found the quite wild park and heard music in the distance. A large crowd had come mainly by bike and were seated in a little valley overlooking the stage of a pop group telling lengthy jokes between the numbers, much appreciated by the audience, a happy atmosphere. Got lost again on the way back, choosing direction by the setting sun, as the rural cycle ways have no names we could see nor directions, but eventually came to a hospital where a cycling doctor led us back into the city!
Wednesday 18 June - Helsingborg to Helsingør Nordhavnen (56N2.66, 12E37.06), 3NM
Left at 1500 to cross the Öresund, crossing the TSS exactly at right angles and between ship movements, finding quite a strong stream, at least 2 knots. Berthed alongside new visitors quay, and explored the ancient town with its pedestriaised streets and multitude of specialist shops. Huge trimaran "HiQ" www.hiq.se came in under escort. Cycled to Kronborg Castle, closed at 5. Long computer session.
Thursday 19 June - in Helsingør
Windy so will probably stay second night. Late start. Cycled round Kronborg and explored Elsinore Cathedral. Cathedral dates from a Romanesque village church in 1200 but present building completed in 1559. Brilliant white paint inside makes it very light, although ancient memorials are dark. New pews incorporate parts from ancient ones. Accessed email from really excellent library with 8 workstations. Watched dozens of racing yachts of all types enter harbour from our excellent vantage point.
Friday 20 June - in Helsingør
Two near gale warnings during night. Rain showers. Watched slow race start with only 10 yachts at 1100, wind 35kts, then to chandlery to buy charts, supermarket where bought excellent beefburgers, library for another Internet session. Early lunch before watching start of main race, over 100 entries, at 1300. Very rough with westerly F6/7. Shorter race round the islands N and S in the Sound started 1730 and 1800 with HiQ, Bols and Nokia 60ft boats, start with 15m/s estimated 18m/s in Sound. Oin the evening the round-the-islands yachts came home, most retiring with DNF (did not finish) while almost as many DNS.
Saturday 21 June - in Helsingør
Yet another near-gale warning at 0600, W 14-16m/s, repeated at 1315. Concerned that the belt posted to Copenhagen might be returned to sender after 14 days we asked at the PO here if they could get in touch; they were most unhelpful ands only gave a ‘phone number for a HQ who could give us the right number. A local hearing our concern heard us asking about trains and helped us. We got two returns for Kr130 to Norra Port which he said was near the main PO. Very comfortable train with special compartment for bikes with straps to secure them. On arrival at PO we found it was not the Central PO which was 3km away near the Tivoli Gardens! However she said she would check for mail and came out with our package!! It had been sent to the wrong PO and we had done the same, two wrongs making a right! We were in the old part of the city and climbed the Rundetaarn, a 25m tower built in 1642 to support an astronomical observatory and with continuous ramp instead of stairs, so you could choose your gradient or go up by horse. It abuts on Trinitatis Church and gives access to an art museum currently with a paper art exhibition. Also saw two other churches both about to have wedding services: St Petri’s mid-15th Century formely used by German-speakers and which was returned to its original E-W axis in 1994; and another. Found a really huge library with escalators and three floors around central atrium. Again read and cleared email free, and had lunch in their café. Got 1500 train back "home".
Sunday 22 June - Helsingør to Skovshoved (55N45.62, 12E36.07), 18NM
Wind stopped during night, the gale warning being cancelled at 0200 local time. Left harbour at 0645, soon sailing at 4 to 7 knots under genoa and mizzen with fresh NW wind. Crossed through one race fortunately well scattered and without inconveniencing anyone. This wind survived until our arrival at Skovshoved harbour at 1045 where we found a "green" upwind box and were soon brewing real coffee. Andreas, a student harbourmaster, made us very welcome. The Nokia 60ft trimaran, that had abandoned the race from a good lead when their mains’l ripped, was here. Walked S past swimming enclosure and nice beach, to Charlotte Fort with some big howitzers pointing out to sea behind an earth bank.
Monday 23 June - Skovshoved to Christianshavn, København (55N40.6, 12E35.8), 7NM
Two hour motor South into København under continuous cirrostatus, spotting the mermaid as we turned South in the inner harbour. All the boxes were taken but the harbourmaster told us to go alongside another yacht; we made a lucky choice with a large wooden yacht Hvidkilde (white spring) as owner Niels Andreason was most helpful. Made our first sortie into town after lunch, went to station where we got a Post Restante letter but were told Post Restante usually went to the PO in a huge shopping centre in "Fish Square", and today’s Times. Revisiting the library for email. Decided against an evening visit to Tivoli which was just as well as there was a terrific thunderstorm and downpour.
Tuesday 24 June - in København
Explored the city on the free bicycles, released with a Kr20 coin like a supermarket trolley. These proved a very mixed blessing as they only had back-pedal brakes which I had never encountered before, were heavy, and had to be guarded whenever left otherwise someone steals them for the Kr20! But we revisited the library, Central PO, an art shop, and the PO in Fish Square. Were very thankful to finally park them near Our Saviour’s Church to ascend the 400 steps to the spire. After an external gallery with magnificent view you continue up an external spiral staircase which makes 3 ½ turns becoming gradually narrower before coming to an abrupt hall below the brilliant golden ball. At each revolution we faced a gale headwind, blessed wind shadow, tailwind and wind shadow. It was really too dangerous to be up there, we returned to find a gale warning issued 1300 (W, 14 - 17m/s, i.e. force 7 plus). After supper returned to Our Saviour’s Church for an organ concert by the resident organist at 8. Very fine organ with 4000 pipes, noted they are named in feet, e.g. 16’.
Wednesday 25 June - galebound in København
Vigourous walk to reach St. Alban’s Church in time for Communion at 1030. There were 7 of us including the visiting vicar from Bexhill and his wife. Noted that services had continued during German occupation 1940-5. The church could be anywhere in England. Visited Langelinnie Marina, the mermaid, the Royal Cast Collection, plastercasts of statuary worldwide including part of the Parthenon’s Elgin marbles, and Danmark’s National Gallery (Staten’s Museum for Kunst) where we first had lunch. Marienated herring with lard! Apparently they eat a lot of lard! The collection of Matisse, which have a room to themselves, was notable, otherwise the architecture of the modern extension to the rear was of more interest than the pictures. Walked back past the Rosenberg Slott to the Station for The Times, had a well-earned beer in the large Radhus Square before exploring the Radhus. Returned for dinner before a stroll though the hippy colony (a former army camp on the fortifications North of Our Saviour’s Church. There is an open-air ethnic market there. We felt very out-of-place amongst all these youngsters, but apparently it is quite safe according to Niels. The gale warning had been cancelled at 1300 and many boats left in the afternoon, but we still needed Chart 198 which was not stocked at the Marine Centre nearby. Niels very kindly offered to drive me to Weilbach's in the morning.
Thursday 26 June - København to Køge, 55N28.2, 12E11.8, 35NM
Beautiful morning with heavy dew. True to his word Niels tapped at 0850 and whisked me to to Weilbach’s very fine store in Lagelinnie. The second floor was devoted to BA charts, the first to Danish and instruments. Bought the missing chart. Left at 0950. Most of the wind turbines were static including the 20 stretched out in a gentle curve over 2.2 miles along the Middel Grund bank, a striking sight. The other interesting sight was the road bridge across the Flint-Rännan from the Swedish coast which disappears into a tunnel on Peberholm island. A few yachts ghosting in very light wind. Difficulty in finding box both free and wide enough, but finally got into one marked 3.25m. At Kr70 including electricity our cheapest yet. Cycled 3mi into town past huge modern chipboard plants. Attractive ancient town around medieval market square, pedestrianised shopping streets with surfeit of clothing shops. Museum dated 1619. Found small supermarket but later found we could have bought it all at the friendly Provienten close to our pontoon.
Friday 27 June - Køge to Rødvig
Lystbådehavn, Stevns, 55N15.2, 12E22.6, 24NM
Swam from "bridge" off lovely white beach, shallow. Collected
excellent rolls we’d ordered last night and, from well-stocked
chandlery, a large scale chart we’d need for the shallow water South.
Arrived mid-afternoon when plenty of room, but boats piled in ignoring
space in adjacent basin. Swam from beach very close by. An excellent
Danish-born Irish singer and guitarist entertained us from 20hr, a
friendly local replacing our bottles of Carlsberg. Margo danced with two
sweet sisters of 3 and 7 who enjoyed it enormously, their mother seemingly
having abandoned them.
Saturday 28 June - Rødvig to Fakse
Ladeplats, 55N12.8, 12E9.6, 11NM and Præstø, 55N7.6, 12E2.7,
9NM
Couldn’t get alongside for diesel but filled can. In order to let a
big German get alongside the pump we left at 0840 breakfasting under way.
Imagining that the tortuous passage into the Præstø Fjord
might be difficult and hoping for presence of other craft we called in at
Fakse Ladeplats, an uncrowded and relaxed harbour, with alongside berthing
allowed up to 12 hours. Noted the floating storage of the dreaded fishing
stakes, 13m long and sharpened one end. Shopped at large FOG supermarket
nearby. Left to cross the Fakse Bugt at 1220 with virtually nothing in
sight, but having found the large red and green buoys that marked the
buoyed channel a number of craft started emerging. The passage proved to
be very clearly marked the lateral spar buoys and we found a suitable box
easily. Bonny Girl, whom we met in Högenäs on the 17th
was here, and invited us for drinks at 6. Explored town, deserted on this
Saturday afternoon. Gloriously hot day but the thunderclouds in the North
produced heavy rain. Swam from excellent series of pontoons stretching
into deep water, sea 22C.
Sunday 29 June - in Præstø
Refilled with the cheapest diesel we’d found at 8, returning to the
hammerhead of our pontoon to assist getting bikes ashore. Set off for a
cycle ride but rain forced U-turn. Nevertheless we enjoyed lush undulating
fields of barley, oats and corn with horses and cows on rich green grass.
Passed though several named hamlets without noticing them! Visited a huge
mansion in formal grounds; accessed through large arch in red and yellow
ochre painted building. Looking through a window saw sows between bars
preventing much movement, feeding their young. Vive Suffolk’s
contented free-range sows digging for worms!