| Tuesday 12 June 2002 We had an excellent Ryanair flight from Stansted to Gothenburg Säve arriving early (fare only £5!), bus to Rönnäng (on Sweden's second largest island Tjörn) arriving 1500 in time to start work. Mixed weather with 2 days near-gale, but warm 21/23C. Although over-wintering was inexpensive nothing else has been, e.g.liferaft maintenance £176!! Test ran engine usung external reservoir for cooling water; it started immediately but wouldn't stop, so Margo rushed more water over across boat park until fuel in system ran out. The "engineer" (who charged £132 to winterize) had used the wrong size of oil filter which got in the way of the stop lever. When he came back to fit my filter I spotted leak from water pump but I negotiated a reasonable price to fix this (only £41 inc. seals). Earlier I had seen water weeping out around rudder (when afloat it weeps in, freezes in winter and cracks the glassfibre) , and got this done really well for £37 by the yard's highly competent self-employed assistant Michael. Tuesday 18 June Terrific thunderstorm tonight, very black sky. Finished (blue) antifouling with brief interruption for shower but with 25C it ¬was soon dry. Got mast up this morning, but wind became too strong to ascend to replace anemometer Wednesday 19 June A young man wound me up the mast to replace the anemometer, also to lift the boom into place. Mobile crane arrived early at 1315 to lift us. The crane drives with the boat dangling in front which requires stout guidance on ropes to stop it banging into the crane. Launched into choppy sea but wouldn’t go into gear! The exhaust hose fixing had been removed allowing it to jam the gear lever, but the Morse controls were also stiff. After two hours being blown onto a very poor jetty I got it going and motored round to the marina; the guest boxes appeared too narrow so took a private berth and hoped! Thursday 20 June - Rönnäng to Skärhamn (57N59.3, 11E32.8), 7 NM Glorious morning. Reconnected radar cable (18 wires) and greatly relieved to find it working. Left at 1115 but as soon as I put on power the generator belt screeched with rev counter "stuck" at 1000RPM, so returned to tighten belt. Everything that engineer had touched had gone wrong! Soon under way again but exposed sea gave uncomfortable roll with swell and little wind so turned into the shelter of Skärhamn. Walked around harbour to church on little hill; very colourful modern carpet in front of altar rail. Shopped at ICA, then had excellent shower. Rain set in over dinner of hot shop-cooked chicken and salad. Friday 21 June - Skärhamn to Gullholmen (58N15.3, 11E25.7), 13NM Gullhlmen looked most attractive so we stopped here to see the Midsummer Day dancing around the "stang", a foliage covered pole carrying two large rings, which was first ceremoniously raised. Margo enjoyed the dancing while I took some pictures from rocks way above. Gullholmen was Sweden’s oldest fishing port but now entirely marina and holiday homes. Blessedly only connected by ferry so no cars, and only winding paths and steps to reach the former fishermen's houses, now mostly holiday homes. Saturday 22 June - Gullholmen to Kungshamn (58N21.6, 11E14.9), 17NM Dull morning. Quite heavy swell in open sea and becoming murky so turned into Lysekil where we’s stopped last year. Lysekil is unique in that from the sea the entire church appears to sit on top of the town, being built on a huge rock. Bought oil, the engine is still leaking! After lunch the weather brightened so we continued to Kungsham, berthing in a tiny harbour. Kungsham is connected to offlying island Smögen by a huge concrete bridge. Smögen is famous for its shrimps, but is now down to a handful of shrimping vessels. Cycled over the bridge to buy 500gm shrimps (which made an excellent main course), and take photos from the bridge 26m ASL. At the present rate we will take a long time to reach Oslo so must do some longer runs, but am enjoying a leisurely style of cruising in contrast to the 5124 miles since leaving England in 1999! Sunday 23 June Kungshamn Terrific electric storm 0300 and shorter overhead one at 0700, blowing hard. Although the next 6 miles are sheltered an open sea section follows which is nasty in onshore winds, so we decided to stay put. Gale warning at 1530 confirmed position and wind howled and fenders groaned all day. Quiet day on maintenance and re-reading a Dick Francis. Bought "Deep Sea Sailors", a rather scholarly work by Knut Weibust, remaindered at 60Kr and the only book in english in the book shop. Monday 24 June Kungshamn to Grebbestadt (58N41.2, 11E15.4), via Hamburgsund, 23NM Left 0945 after getting a Sunday Telegraph! Lovely morning, sheltered inside route requiring much attention to Sote Canal, a natural crack 2.5M long which has been widened and deepened as required to make a navigation. Very busy traffic but the swing bridge opened for us without any need to call. Stopped for lunch in Hamburgsund where Margo did a watercolour painting last year. Continued on sheltered inside route to Grebbestadt for night. A very pleasant town in festive holiday mood with marinas overlooked by rounded cliffs offering splendid views. 1890 church has new round windows with brightly coloured glass in sanctuary. Tuesday 25 June, Grebbestadt to Havstenssund (58N45.5, 11E10.7), 7NM A good morning but with near-gale forecast for Skaggerak. Became very roly on an apparently notorious open sea stretch until we reached the lee of islands. Concerned that everything was well secured but the glass lantern flew off the oil lamp and smashed into the cooker! Very glad to get into the shelter of Havtennsund where we’d also stopped at last year, in good time for lunch. Forecast came true in afternoon and the earlier busy through-traffic stopped. Enquired how to ascend the huge rock overlooking the sound, and had to pass through a shoulder-width fissure about 20m deep and 50m long! First ripe bilberries up on top. Wednesday 26 June galebound in Havstenssund Spent expensive day doing maintenance, buying two new 100AH batteries and windscreen wiper motor. Barometer 993 and falling. Thursday 27 June, Havstenssund to Strömstadt, (58N56.1, 11E10.1), 13NM Wind dropped to a useful F4 west giving us good sailing most of the way to Strömstadt. Lots of boats out, counting 12 sails and many motorboats at one point. Had planned to explore Koster islands but thought it better to hope for better weather on our return. But the islands gave good shelter from seas outside. Koster Fjord is 200m deep. "Met" huge ferry coming out of Strömstadt as we approached. Very crowded harbour but got good alongside mooring on 130m pontoon cum breakwater connecting Skurve mini-island to mainland. Big shop at ICA especially beer as Norwegian prices will be higher. Friday 28 June, Strömstadt (www.stromstad.se) to Frederikstad in Norway, (59N12.4, 10E56.4), 21NM First visited church as it closed at 1500 yesterday (opens daily at 8), with again colourful modern windows in choir. Barometer 987 but fair weather cumulus and light N wind which would head us most of the day. Chose very sheltered inside route crossing Norwegian border off S Sandöy, and switching courtesy flags (and charts to Norwegian series). Rain to test new wiper! Met the strong foul current of up 2.5 knots up the estuary and river into Frederickstadt where we arrived in good time for 1430 bridge opening (next is 1800). Last year we’d been whisked down this estuary in similar poor weather. Visited cathedral. Impressed by a series of outline animal sculptures cut from a 2.5m square of 27mm iron. First is silhouette of horse, piece cut out forming the next until and so on until the sixth which was a solid owl. Margo found excellent art materials shop and bought pieces of material for her patchwork which she has been doing each summer on board. Saturday 29 June, Frederikstad to Hankø, 59N12.8, 10E47.3 and Engelsvika 59N25.1, 10E39.2, 17NM Beautiful morning but light N wind. 0930 start after buying bread at excellent baker and newspaper at station. Down the SW part of the river Glomma (longest in Scandinavia) which divides in the town to flow SW into Oslo Fjord at 0.5kt and SE at 2kt into the indreleia. Estuary opens into Lera, a semi-open sea. Rounded a myriad of small islands on S and W coast of peninsula before turning into Hankø sound. A beautiful broad sound between Hankø and the mainland with many islands and surrounded with glacially smoothed cliffs and trees growing in every crack. Moored for lunch only but scrambled up a cliff to get stunning views of the sound. Left through northern end of sound to go south around Hankø around more islands and rocks before turning north again into Rauer-fjorden and into Engelsvika (vika=creek). Engelsvika has no guest berths but we found a vacant one outside an unusually smart canning factory. All afternoon more yachts and motorboats came in, hovering like mosquitos before coming alongside someone, an attraction perhaps being that no charges are made! But the only facilities are in the restaurant where a brass band presently played to us across the creek. Despite the large numbers it was very quiet, the drumbeats of a distant disco being just discernible. Sunday 30 June, Engelsvika to Moss 59N15.2, 10E44.1 and Son 59N31.4, 10E41.1, 23NM Late start (but earlier than the other visitors who were still preparing breakfast) for open sea passages up the east side of the Oslo-fjorden to Moss. The motorboats then have the advantage for they can go through a short canal under a 4m bascule bridge (which is no longer opened to avoid disrupting road traffic) into the 5NM Mosse-sundet (which must be like Hankø) and straight into Son. Moss is a clean but industrial city busy even on a Sunday. Joined briefly in a church service in the large slender spired 1861 brick church. Good organ and singing. Rain began and decided to have lunch under way to Son. Although largely surrounded by wooded land and islands Son (pronounced "soon") is a bit open to the SW so we later moved to a space on the leeside of a pontoon to escape the swell. Margo used laundry. Scrambled up steep cliff to get viewpoint for photos to find an easy path down! Barometer 985 and still falling. No wind so presumably in centre of depression. Fine sunset with some dramatic clouds. Monday 1 July, Son to Nærsnes 59N45.8, 10E30.1, 17NM Continued North up Oslo fjord which divides to go round steeply wooded Håøya island (229m). Shipping is confined to the eastern side but small boats mainly use western side. However an extensive 1m deep man-made defensive shoal forces all craft to keep to keep to the west side before turning to port to pass between red and green buoys only 25m apart; what makes this exciting are tidal eddies making holding course most difficult! There were also a lot of motor and sail boats going through in each direction. (Although the tidal range here is 30cm few Norwegian sailors know when HW is and ignore tides!) Once through the passage up the W side of Håøya was easy. Saw a small seaplane touch down but immediately think better of it and take off again. Entered Nærsnesbukta (bukta=bay) where there are marinas on both sides. Chose the N side and moored alongside main pontoon. We were told there were no guest places or facilities but were most welcome to use a vacant space, and when we asked where the nearest shop was a young man insisted on driving us to a Joker supermarket about a mile inland. Later walked up steep road to take photos of the bay and fjord beyond. Tuesday 2 July, Nærsnes to Oslo Frognerkilen Båtforenning (59N54.6, 10E42.2), 11NM Heavy rain during night and again early morning deterring early start. Left at 1100 to cross NE to Oslo. Reached 6.1kts on genoa alone with following wind and sea, before reefing to second spot. However it was smooth enough to allow me to type this under way! Rounded the northern point of Nesodden to approach waypoint near the Dyna light off Bygdøy. Heavy rain reduced visibility and I was puzzled that all seemed to be countryside ahead. But as we approached the huge tent-like Fram building on the Bygdøy peninsula became prominent and on passing red marks the huge buildings on piers either side of the Frognerkilen; white KNS yacht club on the west side (Dronningen) and ornate green-roofed Christiana Roklub on the east side. Sue had made arrangemants for us to use their berth which we found without difficulty, although a sudden gust as we slowed to enter her slot made us abort and I had great difficulty in turning in the very narrow gap between the 1 and 2 pontoons. Mercifully I completed the turn before we ran aground and we berthed into the wind easily. As planned Sue came down to meet us at 4; we had met on the Norwegian east coast in 1994. Sue showed us where the local shops were. Knut joined us later and took us for a tour of the city while Sue shopped for an evening meal in their lovely and spacious home. Wednesday in Oslo One of the problems of wintering abroad is that maintenance has to be carried out as part of the cruising period, unless rich enough to get this done for you!. We had already planned to do this in Oslo where there is a Lister Petter approved agent. Good day so took opportunity of doing maintenance, rubbing down and varnishing. Also a more thorough search for the oil leak, mainly eliminating rather than finding, before sending fax to Uxbridge Marine Services seeking advice. Thursday in Oslo Bikes out and cycled to Central PO to collect mail, to the Munch Museum (his pictures arranged in chronological order, with museum of his life below), the old town and back by the central,expensive and noisy Aker Brygge marina (260NOK up to 30ft LOA) and cathedral which has recently had a new richly painted vaulted ceiling. Sue and Knut came to dinner at 6. G&T, Avocado with prawn salad filling, smoked salmon and egg salad, steamed pudding brought over in 1999! Afterwards they took us to the Holmenkollen ski jump at about 450m and commanding splendid view of Oslo fjord and all the islands. Then up to the highest point with its 150m TV mast. Friday in Oslo Had at last an email response to our fax to Uxbridge Marine Services suggesting that the crankcase door seal or lift pump seal were most likely source of our oil leak. Arranged for Sabb in Bergen to mail the two seals to La-Sa Båt & Motor A/S who should be able to fit them on Monday. Second coat of Cetol on worn areas on gunwales. Painted starboard side deck with non-slip paint. Respite earned, we cycled round the Frognerkilen to KNS yacht club to take photos back of our side. Looked into the Norske Folkemuseum. Saturday in Oslo Cycled into town to Central PO and to buy bike brake cable (it broke on a crash stop yesterday as someone opened a car door in my track; cyclists are expected to use the pavements) then met Sue for coffee at the Celsius café (one of the earliest town halls) in Rådhusgata. Explored the fortress with splendid views of Oslo before returning to shop and lunch before cycling to the Norske Folkemuseum. This has a collection of buildings mainly moved from the Telemark district including a stave church like the (unmoved) one we saw at Voss last year, and an ancient house with the only light coming through a small roof opening through which the smoke from a fire, which had been used to cook ancient dishes which we sampled, issued. Sunday in Oslo Cycled to St. Edmund’s (Anglican) Church for a well-attended service and coffee afterwards, then to explore fortress. The regular chaplin was up north taking part in a celebration on St. Cecilia island where the first Irish monks landed to bring Christianity to Norway. Cycled to Oscarshall Shlott on Bygdøy; we’d seen it floodlit across the Frognerkilen every night. Only open 3 afternoons a week. One has to have a tour, and even some of the Norwegians who could understand the speel were yawning! It only has about 6 rooms and the tour lasted 45 minutes! In answer to my question the King only slept one night in his bedroom there! The glass in the windows is too poor for photos and they don’t take you up to the tower which must have a wonderful view. Afterwards we cycled to the southern tip of Bygdøy which is a popular bathing place. Monday in Oslo While waiting to hear whether the engine seals had arrived we explored the Frognerparken with its 58 bronze and many granite sculptures by Vigeland. Some of these are erotic and attract the Japanese visitors by the coachload! The seals not having arrived, and rain set in we lingered over lunch setting out briefly for the National Art Museum again. This enabled us to compare Munch’s two "The Screams", the older 1893 one here and the more colourful one in the Munch Museum. It was the older one that had been stolen in 1994 and recovered by the British Charles Hill (coincidentally subject of a Daily Telegraph article today). Although Munch is best known for these paintings they are certainly not typical of his work much of which is quite sensitive and beautiful; however he was the first artist to attempt to depict feelings, rage and sorrow. Tuesday in Oslo Rather depressing hour in the Museum to the Resistance, but very well done. Very good guided tour of castle by an enthusiastic young man dressed as an 18th century foot soldier. Established that our seals had still not arrived and asked for package to be traced. Beginning to run out of the major things to do here but set off to see the Ekeberg rock carvings, 4000 years old. We cycled and walked to the top of this hill where there would be a magnificent view over Oslo but for murky mist! Discovered the carvings were at the base of the hill, and descended by a winding path through forest. But the rudimentary outlines of deer and a pin-man were not a patch on the ones we saw in Russia two years ago. Last year we met Trevor Park, chaplin to the Anglican community in Norway at a service in Trondheim where he invited us to call on him in Oslo, and he invited us home for coffee and waffles. They have a smart flat near the Frogner park so we were able to cycle through this again. He told us the Government pay a subsidy of about £35 per person on the equivalent of our electoral rolls which is why the churches are so well kept. They have 1500 on the roll throughout Norway, although this is only 10% of the UK population here, and divided between four churches Trondheim uses the cathedral’s chapter house). We just got back before a deafening thunderstorm, a deluge starting as we were about to go to use the shower; instead we let nature shower us in the cockpit. Wednesday 10 July, Oslo to Drøbak, 59N39.7, 10E37.6, 17NM Heavy rain in the night and a murky start to the day with a little more thunder. The P.O. had misdelivered our seals but they turned up at 1100. After much telephoning we found every engine maintenance company was overwhelmed with work, so we gave up the idea after collected the seals from La-Sa, quite a large enterprise and chandlery. Set off at 1525 in almost complete calm, taking the east side of Håøya the route of the big ships. Arrived in Drøbak harbour 1840 to find harbour virtually full but with one yacht leaving we took their bows-on space with yachts fendered off both sides. Explored and shopped at RIMI. Really delightful holiday town. Once again a terrific thunderstorm, so, there being no showers here, had another shower in very heavy rain the surroundings being illuminated by lightning flashes! Thursday 11 July in Drøbak Woken at 0630 by a terrific crack of thunder overhead prelude to a quite violent storm after which wind gradually rose and sea built up very quickly with white crests. A huge Princess 45 went out and was tossed about like a dinghy so U-turned north with the wind and sea. In fact we saw virtually no south-bound pleasure boats until the evening when we regretted having paid for another night (£9). Navtex gale warning SW near gale force timed 1000, so decided to stay put. Lifeboat has been out twice since we arrived. Drøbak boasts the world's only all-year Christmas shop, Julehuset, where we actually bought Christmas presents for grand children. Had some pleasant walks in hot sunshine, and brief swim, although an 85-year old who arrived on sticks had a long swim. Harbour-due collecter said it had been 29C in Trondheim and disputed my 21C reading here. Also that wind had reached 18m/s (34 knots) whereas 9m/s had been forecast. Friday 12 July, Drøbak to Tønsberg, 59N16.1, 10E24.1, via Åsgårdstrand, 59N21.0, 10E28.3, 32NM Idyllic morning with light breeze, barometer at 1015 highest since we arrived from England. Motored down W coast of Oslo fjord to Åsgårdstrand where we moored for lunch in central basin in this most respectable small port. Visited Munch's spartan little fisherman's house above the harbour where he spent summers from 1897. No luxuries here! Our second good swim with nice beach and steps and diving boards. Sea 17C. Continued south to enter Husøy Sundet and narrow well-buoyed channel leading up to a bascule bridge where we waited for an hour for its 1805 opening with a large number of yachts simultaneously passing each way. Most visitor yachts were moored bows-on to the quay and restaurant area but we searched for a quieter place. Asked a yacht if we could moor alongside and they not only helped to moor but plied us with French red wine! A trio including the owner meet up for a week here annually mainly to enjoy dining out. Tønsberg is Norway’s oldest town, with the barest remains of a castle on the smooth rock high above the Sound. The wooden parts were burnt down and brick taken to build the mayor’s house. Listened to a very good, but a bit over-amplified, group singing Irish songs. Saturday 13 July, Tønsberg to Stavern, 58N59.94, 10E2.51 and Ø Halsen, 59N2.0, 10E4.0, 27NM Watched two tugs move an enormous barge (drawing 30 meters!) with an oil rig’s processing unit, into the centre of the sound. Men were still working on it including one fitting railings to a circular platform around its huge "funnel" hundreds of feet above the sea. Mass exodus of boats at 9 for 0905 bridge opening. Left at 1000 after thanking a sleepy trio next door! Down the narrow 10 mile fjord into open sea with barren warm-coloured granite islands. Almost calm passage with flat sea to Stavern. Weather improved all day and 31°C on arrival. We were here last year and recognised the pyramid stone war memorial now covered in scaffolding. Walked through army barracks (where they were getting ready for a concert with much amplification, smoke (condensed water vapour) and magnificent firework set pieces including a huge globe suspended from a crane) to the bathing beach where we had good swim and dried on hot rock. I had found a missing plug on the side of the engine. A search through the oil in the bilge with magnet then by hand failed to find the plug, but we screwed in a cork. Desperately disappointed on arrival to find we’d used over a litre in 4 hours motoring. Interesting sky with cirrostratus and some cirrocumulus, portending…. Sunday 14 July, Ø Halsen to Risør, 58N43.2, 9E14.4, 35NM …. A murky windless morning but improving all day. In an anticyclone at last with 1026mb. Changed oil filter, the last desperate possibility for our oil leak, but to no avail. The crankcase seal remains the most likely, but might entail lifting the engine out, anyway a big job. Will probably have to filter and recycle oil from bilge! Left due south to clear over a mile of coastal rocks before turning WSW in open sea, our first longish open passage. A land breeze developed and we reached 6 knots with genoa and main, sailing for 3 hours before the wind died. Motored into Risør with its all-white houses and churches.. Walking up to a high spot for a photo a lady came out to show us a sundial carved in the rock dated 1750. Fine wood church with spire and painted interior, mainly marbled, vaulted wood ceiling. Two singers and an accompanist with piano and harpsichord were practicing for an evening concert; we heard Purcell’s "Let us wander", Kretzner’s "Bring him home" and Paul Simon’s "Like a bridge over troubled water" all beautifully sung. Monday 15 July (St. Swithin and my birthday), Risør to Arendal (Hisøen), 58N27.4, 8E46.0, 24NM Left marina 0740 on idyllic morning with little wind, phographing the Stangholmen Light House before entering smooth open sea. One has to go almost 3NM South to clear the shallow coastal area before setting direct SW course for Arendal. This was to close to the wind so made a 1 mile tack out to sea where we found a nice breeze that carried us close-hauled right into the Eastern entrance of Arendal, which was suddenly very busy with fast motorboats oblivious of the annoyance they caused, or perhaps enjoying seeing yachts rocking violently! Moored in the main visitors-only marina to find that days are now charged NOK200 (or 250 if they have to collect it from you, and a new penalty of 500 for non-payment). Risked berthing here from 1330 to 1630 for provisions and have lunch: an excellent fish soup with local beer. Crossed over to the "ice cream" pontoon where we’d spent two nights free last year, using the marina by day; they must have got wise to this! Anne Sunde joined us here but hadn’t been able to contact Dag (who relies on VHF contact via a coastal radio station) to ask if we could use his berth. However we met Carlson here who said he would get an engineer to look at our problem. Beautiful sunset. Tuesday 16 July, Arendal (Hisøen) to Mærdø, 48N25.6, 8E48.1, 2NM Called at marina workshop office at 8 and were told they COULD do the work later in the day. Cycled west to bridge from Hisøen to mainland and back east into Arendal to shops and to see Anne’s new shop "Du Verden" on the prestigious east side of the central harbour. Overshot going back but got good view of the Galtesundet looking south out to sea! Arrived back to see the engineer saying he was ready to start, so rushed to get floor up, oil pumped out, etc. Very competent engineer. Some of the crankcase "door" bolts were actually loose and on removal the paper gasket ("joint") was very brittle. Job took 2 hours including test, and a further half hour to look at a developing stern gear problem. Bill exactly £100. After tidying up we motored down the Galtesundet and anchored in mud off the beautiful island of Mærdø, buying ice creams at a little café with a half boat as counter (as in Sark!). Good swim off sandy beach. A large motor cruiser anchored and after a while (his family ashore) drifted back onto a yacht. Instead of lifting his anchor to our horror he drove off at high speed with anchor chain taught behind him and soon had the unfortunate yacht in tow, with the skipper standing helpless. Soon both anchors held and the power boat power-winched up his anchor together with the yachts chain. Then followed both skippers trying to release the chain while they drifted back at right-anges onto a third yacht. Fortunately no damage seem to have been done and the embarrassed motor cruiser skipper slipped off to hide among his kind. Wednesday 17 July, Mærdø to Lyngør, 58N38.0, 9E7.5. 17NM After another swim weighed anchor at 1050, motoring back through Arendal and the lengthy sound before emerging into open sea, sailing under three sails until speed dropped to 1.2 kts. Turned inshore though well marked channel to Lyngør, a group of islands, Steinsoen to NW, Odden to NE, Asker to SW and Lyngør to SE with beautifully sheltered water between. Boats crowded around jetty off restaurant on NW corner of Lyngør and more discretely off Den Blå Lanterne on W side of Odden. Den Blå Lanterne doubles up as a museum with interesting history of Lyngør and battles with English! Replica of rowing gunboat lies outside. Rowed across to shop on Lyngør. Had splendid view of sound from optical telegraph on top of Lyngør. Thursday 18 July, Lyngør to Kragerø, 58N51.9, 9E24.7 and Skutevikkilen, 58N53.9, 9E33.2, 26NM Left the islands into open sea to ENE before turning inland to Kragerø, a very popular holiday resort with crowded noisy marina. Berth NOK220 with limited access to electricity. After shopping at REMA and excellent Jennoia chandlery set off for very narrow Langaasund between Langø and Gumø; steep forested sides. Then rounded NW end of Gumø to enter Skutevikkilen, a totally enclosed idyllic pool with winding entrance about 8m wide at narrowest point. Forty boats including 10 sail already there, but plenty of room. Moored from stern anchor to a bolt on rock alongside a Swedish yacht whose owners lived in Berlin. We had to go "ashore" about 5m by our dinghy as it was too shallow to come right up to the rock. Walked up hill through forest and burst into fantastic view of myriad islands with sea beyond, when Margo called out "there’s a badger". Amazingly it was in my viewfinder after I’d clicked, so I should have a picture! Had a BBQ on the rock by our bolt. Continue Home |