Carpet Cleaning

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Dust Mites

Spot and Stain Removal

Dry Extraction

DUST MITES

New report suggests house dust mite control does not help asthma.
The British Medical Journal of 24 October 1998 published a statistical analysis of objective trials of house dust mite control and concluded that there was no evidence of benefit to patients whose asthma was attributed to house dust mites. Before embarking on a lot of expense and trouble you will surely want to know what this report has to say and whether it should be regarded as reliable. A new web page discusses this and contains links to the original article and accompanying comment in the Journal.

Beetles, Moths, Termites & Other Textile Insects

Description
Deterioration of carpets yarns may occur if they become infested by textile-eating insects like clothes moths, carpet beetles, silverfish and termites. Many of these digest protein-based fibers AND they might attack even non-protein-based synthetic fibers if they contain protein substances like food stains, blood, urine, vomit, perspiration etc. Silverfish and firebrats eat carbohydrates-based glues while termite consume cellulosic material present in the backings and yarns.

Treatment
The best treatment for insect attack on carpets is prevention. The carpet must be kept clean of stains and spills that may attract insects and soils that may hide them. Professional treatments are available for curing insect infestation.

Wet Shampoo
It is important to use a neutral shampoo on wool carpets - certainly not one that is alkaline. Never use house hold detergents, and don't use shampoos which smell of ammonia. To check proprietary carpet shampoos, leave a bit in a saucer overnight, pour off excess and allow to dry to see if it leaves a sticky residue to which house dust could cling.

Absorbent powder
There are a range of cleaning powders available which are either solvent-saturated or detergent-saturated. After vacuuming, the powder is sprinkled liberally on the carpet, brushed into pile and then vacuumed out although it is virtually impossible to remove all the powder from the pile.

The powder method does not clean as thoroughly as the wet shampoo but it does freshen-up a carpet. It also distorts the pile less and, because the carpet is not wetted, the room is ready for re-use sooner.

host DRY EXTRACTION CARPET CLEANING: Minute sponges containing water and cleaning agents are brushed into the carpet and then vacuumed off. A safe way to clean "natural" floor coverings like sea-grass, coir and sisal. Dry almost immediately.

Aerosol foam shampoo
For light cleaning of small areas, aerosol foam shampoos can be used. It is advisable to test the shampoo first for stickiness as with ordinary carpet shampoos. The foam is usually sprayed sparingly on to the carpet and worked into the pile with a moistened sponge or brush. After the carpet is dry, which takes less time than with wet shampoos, the carpet is vacuumed.

CARPET STEAM CLEANING: Using the hot water extraction method (steam cleaning), hot water and detergents are sprayed on the carpet and simultaneously extracted with powerful vacuums. Remaining stains are then treated individually, leaving the carpet clean and dry in approximately five hours. Your furniture will be put back in place with foil pads under the feet to protect the carpet.

Hot water extraction
In the hot water extraction method, sometimes incorrectly referred to as steam cleaning, the carpet pile is injected with a hot water and shampoo solution under pressure so that the soil is suspended in the water which is extracted almost at once by a high suction wet vacuum system.

This method is particularly useful for very dirty carpets because it gets deep-seated dirt out but it does not clean the surface as well as other method. It is also useful for removing excess detergent from successive wet shampooings - and together the two methods can restore a very dirty, flattened carpet. Although hot water extraction machines can be rented, it is best to have this type of cleaning done by a professional cleaner because a certain amount of care is needed not to over-wet the carpet and, thus, distort the pile and backing.

Potential Problems Caused by Improper Carpet Cleaning:

Overwetting of the carpet can be caused by poorly adjusted hot water extraction equipment, by passing over areas too many times with hot water extraction experiment/ shampoo, by too much shampoo and by spillage. Over wetting can cause a number of problems:

	If water seeps into backing, it might cause separation of secondary background.
	Moisture may cause backing to shrink and tear seams and may dissolve cellulose and cause it to wick to the surface causing brown stains.
	Over wetting can also cause bleaching of dyes.
	Prolonged exposure to moisture may cause mildew.
	Wooden floor may suffer expansion & buckle if seepage extends to them.
	At times, water soaking into the backing can cause chemical reaction with dyes in cellulose fibres in the backing and these rise up to the surface through the pile fabrics. This can occur after wet cleaning or deep spills, specially under conditions of slow drying. This problem is very acute with carpets using cellulose fibres like jute, cotton, sisal and wool in their backing. With time, jute backing deteriorates giving rise to brown or red pigments called 'lignin' which wick upto the surface of the pile fibres.

Factory Cleaning
Professional factory cleaning is ideal for rugs and carpet squares because all the dirt can be effectively removed. Although it is not as suitable for wall-to-wall carpet as an on-site cleaning because of the inconvenience and expense of removing and refitting the carpet, it does get the carpet cleaner.

Spot and Stain Removal
The most crucial area of carpet maintenance is the removal of spots and spills. The golden rule is to act quickly. Rapid attention could mean the difference between absolutely no damage and a mark that ruins the appearance of a whole carpet.

The approved method is to blot up liquids with white paper tissues or clean absorbent cloths. Scoop up solids with the end of a knife or spoon and then treat the stain according to the following table with one of two cleaning solutions.

For oily or greasy stains: use dry-cleaning solvent (perchloroethylene or methylated spirits) or an aerosol spray of proprietary carpet stain remover for greasy stains.

For water-based stains: use a solution of proprietary carpet shampoo, an aerosol spray of carpet stain remover for non-greasy stains.

The stain removal chart included here advises on methods of treating stains and the order they should be tried. For instance, if clean warm water does not remove all traces of a beverage, try a solution of biological washing powder next.

Most of the agents recommended in the stain removal chart are easy to obtain. However, if you cannot get sodium hydrosulphite or hydrochloric acid from your chemist, call a professional cleaner instead. A freezing agent is available in aerosol sprays, but dry ice can be used to harden chewing gum in order to remove it.

For the solutions of sodium hydrosulphite, one teaspoonful of powder to a pint of water equals about 1%, two spoonfuls equals 2% and 5 spoonfuls equals 5%. (Sodium hydrosulphite is a mild bleach and it can be used safely on most light-coloured carpets. In the case of patterned carpets, test it first on an inconspicuous corner of the carpet).

Always work inwards from the edge of the stain to prevent it spreading. Apply small amounts of cleaning agent at a time so as not to over wet the carpet, blot between applications with paper tissues or dry cloths. Do not rub the stain, rubbing will spread it over a bigger area and distort the pile. Rinse the treated area with clear tepid water, especially if a bleach like sodium hydrosulphite is used, and place a thick wad of white tissues on the treated area weighed down with a heavy object until dry.

(Some carpet manufacturers do not accept responsibility for complaints regarding colour where such a treatment has been used.) However, there are some proprietary stain-repellent treatments which are effective and do not have drawbacks.

STAIN CHART WOOL CARPETS

TYPES OF STAIN ( WOOL )

Alcohol (including dried stains) — Method 3

Animal and baby accidents — Method 1

Ballpoint pen — Sponge with methylated spirits followed by — Method 1

Beers, wines and spirits — Method 1

Bleach — Method 1

Blood — Method 1

Butter — Method 2 followed by Method 1

Chewing gum — Apply a freezing agent and break gum away when hard, followed by Method 2

Chocolate — Scrape off excess, followed by Method 1

Cola (soft drinks) — Method 1

Cooking oil — Method 2 followed by

Cosmetics and lipstick — Method 2 (*); if unsuccessful, try Method 1

Cream — Method 2 (*) followed by Method 1

Dust marks — These are the gray / black marks that come up round the edges and sometimes in spots or lines on carpets. They are caused by dust coming up from underneath the floorboards. ( Bad fitting practice and breaking of British Standard ) A paper under layment must be laid under the carpet or if a rubber or felt is being laid then paper must be laid first. You should ensure you seal the gap around the skirting board to prevent dust blowing up and causing a black mark. Cleaning by machine will usually only partially remove the lines and they may reappear. Complain.

Egg — Method 1

Excrement — Method 1

Floor wax — Method 2 (*)

Flood damage —Call a professional as soon as you can.

Fruit juice — Method 3 followed by Method 1

Furniture polish, shoe polish — Method 2 (*), followed by Method 1

Glue — This usually needs to be cleaned professionally. If you can phone the makers they can usually advise.

Gravy and sauces — Method 2 (*), followed by Method 1

Grease and oil — Method 2 (*), followed by Method 1

Ink (fountain pen) — Method 1 Indian ink and other natural inks are very hard to remove. Phone professional.

Lily pollen — If rubbed into the carpet detergent will rarely be of help. seek professional help.

Mineral water, tonic water — Method 1

Mayonnaise — Method 1

Milk — Method 1

Mustard — Method 1

Metal polish — Method 2 (*) followed by Method 1

Nail polish—Dab with nail polish remover (*) followed by Method 2 (*) and Method1

(Note: Over soaking with nail polish remover or similar solvents could damage carpet backings and some fibres. Test first on an out of sight patch.)

Paint (emulsion) — Blot off excess, then apply

Paint (oil based) — Dab with white spirit (*) or turpentine , followed by (*)

Rust — Method 2 (*), followed by Method 1 (Professional help may be required.)

Salad dressing — Method 2, followed by Method 1(*)

Soot — Vacuum-clean thoroughly, followed by Method 1

Sugar — Method 1

Tar — Method 2 (*) If necessary, follow by dabbing with eucalyptus oil (*)

Tea or coffee — Method 1

Tomato juice —Method 1

Urine (dry stain) — Method 3. , then sponge with cold water, followed by

Urine (wet) — Sponge with cold water, then apply

Vomit (dry stain) — Method 3.

Vomit (wet) — Method 1

Wax — Scrape off excess, iron at low temperature over brown paper, then apply (*)

Wine — Method 1 followed by Method 4.

(*) Refer to Warning

Warning : Warning : Warning : Warning :

The fumes from substances such as dry-cleaning fluid,

methylated spirits and acetone (nail polish remover) are flammable

and can be harmful to health if inhaled. Before using such substances,

open the windows. After use, let the room air thoroughly. Do not smoke,

or create any spark or flame, nor use any electrical appliance in the room

until it is free of fumes. Apply solvents with great care, for over-application

can damage carpet backings such as latex, rubber or foam. Avoid over wetting

or vigorously rubbing carpets. Many proprietary spot cleaners can bleach the carpet.

If you are in any doubt, contact a professional carpet cleaner.

You could ask your carpet retailer to recommend someone, or could enquire of the National Carpet Cleaners Association.

METHOD 1

1. Blot with clean, white absorbent material to remove any excess liquid.

2. Gently sponge the stained area with either (a) a solution made of one teaspoonful of detergent for washing woolens to half a pint of warm water, or (b) a solution of proprietary carpet shampoo in warm water diluted to the manufacturer’s instructions.

3. Rinse with clean, warm water.

4. Blot the damp patch thoroughly.

5. Gently brush the pile to its natural direction.

6. Make a pad of say five layers of white absorbent kitchen roll, and place on the damp patch. Place a heavy object — say a telephone directory Make a pad of say five layers of white absorbent kitchen roll, and place on the damp patch. (A damp carpet always dries from the surface. The absorbent pad will soak up any residual stain drawn to the surface during drying.)

METHOD 2

Sponge the stain with a household dry-cleaning fluid in accordance with the maker’s

instructions. Do not soak. Refer to warning .

METHOD 3

1. Sponge the stain with a solution of one part of white vinegar to three parts of

clean, warm water.

2. Leave for 15 minutes.

3. Sponge with clean warm water.

4. Blot the damp patch thoroughly.

5. Gently brush the pile to its natural direction.

6. Make a pad of say five layers of white absorbent kitchen roll, and place on the damp patch. Place a heavy object — say a telephone directory— on top, and allow the patch to dry.

METHOD 4

1. Apply detergent solution 1\4 teaspoon clear, hand/dishwashing detergent with 1 cup of water using a damp towel, leave 3~5 minutes.

2. Blot do not rub.

3. If stain is removed, finish with a water rinse.

IF STAIN IS STILL NOT REMOVED CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS:-

4. Apply hydrogen peroxide solution (mix Half cup with one teaspoon ammonia), let stand 2 to 3 hours under a weighted sheet of plastic wrap. Repeat application of hydrogen peroxide and dry under weighted plastic wrap until removal is complete.

5.Apply water with a damp towel.

6. Make a pad of say five layers of white absorbent kitchen roll, and place on the damp patch. Place a heavy object — say a telephone directory— on top, and allow the patch to dry.

7. Apply white vinegar (undiluted), only after stain is removed. Apply water with a damp towel.