REGISTRATION
1> DUBLIN
You will need to apply for a ZZ TEMPORARY REGISTRATION in Ireland. This gives basic cover to legally drive the car onto the ferry and off into the UK.
2> UK
Back in the UK, as soon as possible, get the car MOT'd. This can be done using the chassis number, prior to UK registration.Then present to your local Vehicle Registration Office:-
VALID UK MOT (can be done WITHOUT UK REG, using Chassis No. as ID)
PROOF OF TRAVEL TO / FROM IRELAND (ferry ticket both ways)
BILL OF SALE (from vendor in Ireland)
VALID UK INSURANCE COVER NOTE
V55/5 - Application for First Licence / Declaration for Registration
V875 - Declaration of Personal Import
JAPANESE LOGBOOK and ENGLISH TRANSLATION OF SAME
JAPANESE CERTIFICATE OF CANCELLED REGISTRATION
SAD2 - Euro Customs Declaration, stamped with SAD ISO Number, verification of Customs / VAT Duty paid
Take all the above to your local VRO, together with a cheque for Road Tax, and a Registration fee (currently 25 pounds). If the paperwork is OK, they will send you the Tax Disc normally by return of post, V5 takes longer. ** KEEP COPIES OF ALL DOCUMENTATION!! ** They will return the import paperwork eventually, but will keep the original Japanese docs.
The rear Reg. plate is an odd size....needs to be 13" x 6.5", with full size numerals ( motorbike ones will not do, too small legally..full UK specifications HERE). Correct ones can be had from:-
CULCHETH CAR SPARES
457a, WARRINGTON ROAD
CULCHETH
CHESHIRE
WA3 5SJ
Tel:- 01925 762279
Front and rear plates for £11 inclusive, while you wait.
AIR CONDITIONING
Check the a/c blows really cold (fridge like) after a couple of minutes on full blast, with vents set to recirculating. The engine revs should change as the a/c is switched on, indicates the pump is working. Recharges are a nuisance, and this could indicate problems in the system. However, car A/cs normally need recharging every 7-10 years, due to leaks in the system . Regular use of the a/c (even in winter a couple of times) will actually extend the time between recharges.
ELECTRIC WINDOWS
Beware of electric windows which seem slow to lower. Extreme cases may even struggle on the last bit. This may indicate that the cable is wearing out. Ignore a dealer who says "oh, its not been used in a while". This is a very common problem on MX5's, so you could use this as a negotiating point, as replacement cables can be expensive and time consuming to buy and fit. On V-Spec cars, there is a master cutoff switch that kills the electrics to both windows, next to the Foglight / Electric mirror switch, right of the dash.
RUSTPROOFING
Imports are not as rustproofed as UK-spec ones. When they arrive here, they are essentially rustfree. Most dealers will rust proof them before sale. Some may not. Most of the floor is coated, but the boot floor is not. Make sure that in particular gets treated.
UK LEGALITIES
REAR FOG LIGHT>
Make sure the car has been fitted with a fog light
SPEEDOMETER> either mph digit stickers added to the speedo, OR via a new face (ESSENTIAL for MOT) , speed will read correctly, but odometer still clocks in kph. A good quality replacement MPH face is available from:-
LOCKWOOD INTERNATIONAL
UNIT 1, OLD ROAD
LEEDS
LS11 0HS
TEL:- 0113 2723200
They take Credit Cards over the
phone, next day delivery.
HEADLAMPS> should be E-Marked. If not, replacements are less than a tenner from Halfords (7" Sealed Beam, same as Mini headlamps), or for higher spec Halogen units with seperate bulbs, try SCIMITAR INTERNATIONAL Check the lights raise ok; slowness the first few times could be a genuine sign of inactivity, but they should raise evenly. If not, its a sign of accident damage. Also look at the underside of the bonnet; there should be plenty of factory warning stickers in Japanese. If not, it indicates a new bonnet has been fitted.
HOW TO SPOT A ROADSTER
REAR:- Square Number Plate recess (UK '5 is standard long type)
SIDES:- RED Rear side reflectors (UK '5 amber)
FRONT:- Round Eunos badge
MODEL TYPES
There are lots of different specifications.
BASE (rare, steel wheels, no power assists)
M-SPEC (a/c, power windows, standard alloys)
V-SPEC (a/c, power windows, power steering, leather, cd player, may have BBS wheels)
S-SPEC (a/c, power windows, power steering, leather, cd player, may have BBS wheels, stiffened / lowered suspension?)
Lots of variations on the above, plus lots of versions like M2's (roll bar etc), RS-Spec.
Windscreen Stickers
Many cars still have Japanese Ministry of Transportation inspection stickers. Vehicles in Japan are required to have their vehicles pass a rigorous inspection and repair procedure on a regular basis. This sticker indicates when the last inspection was done. A large 10 in the centre indicates Heisei 10, which is the 10th year of the current emperor (1998). Hence the 10/3/20 would be 20/3/98, date of this "MOT". The round sticker is from an official government-operated inspection station (rather than a private garage that performs inspections).
Other stickers may relate to the "shaken", which is kind of a combination of inspection and minimal, mandatory liability insurance. A new car shaken lasts three years. After that you could get one more three year shaken. After the car is 6 years old, you had to get 2 year shakens until the car was 10 years old. After 10 yrs, a new shaken was required every year. A 2 year shaken cost between $800-1500, depending on what the "inspector" decided. Shaken costs could include new brakes, exhaust, etc.
AGE
There are several clues as to the car's year of manufacture. There should be a year printed on some items, a label at the base of the seatbelt webbing, most electric aerials have it stamped on, sticker on the seat base, white label on doorpost, etc.
MILEAGE
5-8000 kms per year is pretty normal. The cars seem to be pretty well serviced in Japan, but service histories are rarely available. Budget for an Oil and Filter change ASAP ( Castrol Magnatec is a good choice ).
TYRES * IMPORTANT *
Check the tyres VERY carefully for cracks. The Japanese tyres (same brands as here, but made in Japan) are a hard compound rubber, and have a tendency to crack, particularly on the outer edges. Budget to change all four immediately. The tread separated from the sidewall on mine on removal !! Yokohama A509 and A520 are great UK replacements.
ENGINE
Should start on the button. Some show slight hesitation when cold coming to a stop. Usually, this means the cars due a service. A "tappety" ticking on start-up also indicates an Oil change ASAP. Castrol Magnatec works well, many owners change oil at 5,000 mile intervals, others change every 3,000 miles.
The car should accelerate and rev smoothly, any hestitation may suggest faulty plugleads. These can start to break down at around 20,000 miles, easily rectified with a new set of good quality leads (NGK Blue) and plugs (NGK BKR6E, gap to 1mm). CAUTION: CAT. CONVERTER CAN BE DESTROYED IF RUN FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME WITH DUFF LEADS!! Change ASAP. Check the cat light goes out when you start the car up (instrument panel, looks like a barbecue). If its been run with duff plugleads, the cat may have been damaged, may be an expensive repair.
These cars have a really variable oil pressure; between 1.8-6.0 kg/cm is normal. Usually it runs at about 2.0 kg/cm at tick over when properly warmed up, or may drop to 1.8 when hot. This range is even common on very new cars. ( On Post ’94 cars the gauge is really an on or off indicator! Not a true gauge ). Check the levels of all the relevant reservoirs. The clutch is hydraulic and again its quite common for the slave cylinder to leak.
When fully warmed up, if the idle speed regularly drops below 800rpm, nearly stalling, it usually indicates a low battery. A slow charge at 2amps (or a 20 mile run) should cure it.
Cambelt change due at 100,000 kms.
ROOF
Check the roof for rips etc. On the older models, the rear screen will probably be quite scratched, and may be split and / or yellowing. The scratches can be removed using polishing compounds. Check the condition of the seal along the top of the windscreen. Even try and get the vendor to turn a hose on the roof. Should be leakproof except around the tops of the doors; a few drips. Other leaks might be seen where the screen roof and door meet.
BATTERY
Check the battery. The original battery is a special gel-type one, branded Panasonic. It is possible to fit a normal one, but a special venting kit needs to be had from Mazda. If there is any doubt, fit a Westco, superb sealed replacement.
INTERIOR
Cloth interior wears well, but may show signs of fluffiness at around 50,000 kms. Standard steering wheel on many earlier Eunos is a Momo wheel the same as UK spec ones. The rubber pad is removable to reveal a Momo horn button in black or yellow. Check the keys lock and unlock everything. A set of keys may operate the doors and ignition, but only one key works the boot, glovebox and centre console box. The key may be exactly the same as the other, except a slightly different cut at the end.
RADIO
Check the radio has an FM dongle or retuner fitted otherwise you won't pick up UK FM. The factory unit is a Panasonic job, screwed into the dashboard. It's quite a major job to take it out as it involves partial dismantling of the dash. Even with the retuner, the radio won't display the correct frequency, but will receive OK.
Most of the cars imported here will have headrest speakers (2 in each) as well as door speakers. Many of the Headrest speakers were wired incorrectly at the factory ( pre mid ’96 ), they sound very thin. A fix is available, see MIATA.NET archives for solution.
GEARBOX
Gearchanges on early models (89-92) can be stiff 1st to 2nd when cold. This is a design fault which can be improved by changing the gearbox oil. and / or the top rubber gaitor, which splits with age. It slickens up nicely when the gear box is fully warmed up. The driver's side of the transmission tunnel does get warm, but if it gets very hot, the rubber boot around the gear lever (hidden) may have split. It can be replaced fairly easily.
If you found this info
useful, please consider a donation via Paypal
Just click below: