CONSTRUCTION PROCEDURE

Rapid Robert is a type known as a McKenzie River Boat, designed for
those wild rivers with fast, rough currents. It is a raked,
smooth-bottomed, sturdy rowboat, able to twist and turn on a dime, with
a high buoyant stern that will shoot through rapids which would sink the
best of other craft. In fact, you are safer in rapids with Rapid Robert
than you are with a canoe. This boat also performs satisfactorily as an
ordinary rowboat, and, for cruising on more gentle waters, a removable
section of the high transom may be slipped out to attach a small
outboard motor.

You need no forms or molds for this boat. Planking and frames are simply
cut, beveled, and assembled thus giving the correct shape and form.
Construction is of waterproof marine plywood: the 14 foot length sheet
is correct for this hull. No nails are used anywhere and all screws
should have lead holes drilled before fastening.

First, obtain materials needed and lay out cutting diagram for side
planking on the 4' x 14' piece of 1/4 inch plywood. Also, draw six
vertical lines two feet apart on the plywood to indicate future location
of six frames. Then saw diagonal cut, dividing plywood into two sides,
and cut both sides to shape. Frames are drawn full-size on paper
patterns. Lay frame material on these patterns, mark and cut to shape.
All bottom frames are 3/4 inch x 2-1/4 inch; all side frames are the
same material, tapered from 2-1/2 inch to 1 inch. Bevel outer edges of
frames to the given angle, beveling No. 1, No. 2, and No. 3 frames
toward the bow while No. 5 and No. 6 curve in toward transom. Leave side
frames an inch or so longer at the top, cutting them off to match the
side planking later on. Use casein or waterproof resin glue and 1/4 inch
x 2 inch carriage bolts to assemble frames. Then mark out the chine
notches, but do not cut them out completely at this time; leave waste
pieces in place to help align side planking flush with bottom. Transom
assembly consists of 3/4 inch plywood transom with a frame similiar to
the other frame. Chine notches are completely cut out of transom frame
at this time, and frame is glued and screwed to the 3/4 inch plywood.
Cut out and lay aside removable section of transom. Next cut the stem, a
triangular piece cut from 2 inch x 3 inch x 24 inch hardwood; it is not
sawed off at top and bottom until side planking is attached.

With hull upside down, start assembly by screwing No. 4 frame
permanently to one and then the other plywood sides, using one inch
screws spaced about four inches apart. Position frame with the vertical
lines on plywood sides and align bottom edges of plywood first with
bottom of frame. Attach No. 3 and No. 5 frames to plywood in the same
manner--and so on, pulling plywood in to attach each frame. As plywood
is bent, it forms the correct rake and shape. Attach transom and stem
last, applying seam compound under these joints and securing every two
inches with 1-1/2 inch screws. Then cut off flush with plywood at top
and bottom.

You are now ready to install the floating chines, which are not attached
to frames at any point, so that they will never pull away from the
planking. Finish sawing chine notches at corners of frames. With small
tacks or brads attach a 3/8-inch-wide strip of Everseal Glass Channel
Stripping to outer side of each chine. This fibrous, raw rubber
stripping used in sealing window glass will not deteriorate or leak. If
Everseal Stripping is not available, use cloth strips soaked in marine
glue. Spring chines into notches with rubber strips against the 1/4 inch
side planking--do not glue or paint rubber strips. Hardwood chines will
sometimes twist when bent, and if you have this trouble secure chines to
a frame or two with screws, but remove these screws before attaching
bottom. Next screw sides to chines with 3/4 inch screws spaced three
inches apart.

Before planking the bottom, mark center of each frame and stretch a
string from stem to center of the transom. If string passes over
centermarks on frames, both sides of the hull are alike. If not, tack a
board along inside floor of boat, pushing the still-limber hull into
shape. The bottom consists of a 4 x 14 foot piece of 3/8 inch marine
plywood. Place on hull, mark, cut to shape, and fasten at four inch
intervals along frames with 1-1/2 inch screws. Along chines use one inch
screws at three inch intervals; at stem and transom use 1-1/2 inch
screws at two inch intervals. Place another strip of Everseal Stripping
between each chine and the bottomn plywood before fastening. Use seam
compound, not the rubber, on transom and stem. Trim edges of 3/8 inch
plywood evenly and attach the thin, hardwood outside chine, applying
seam compound liberally underneath before screwing down. At the stem,
plane plywood edges smoothly and install 3/4 inch metal bumper strip.

Now turn hull right side up and attach outside gunwales to the side with
5/8 inch screws; keep screwheads inside of hull. Then bolt inwales into
place with 1/8 inch x 2-1/4 inch bolts that extend through frames, side
planking, and outside gunwales. Secure inwales at the stern and transom
with hardwood knees or small metal brackets. Next shape oarlock blocks
and glue and bolt them into place with three 1/8 inch x 2-1/4 inch bolts
securing each block. Rear seat is 3/4 inch x 12 inch board set on 3/4
inch x 3 inch risers which are screwed to No. 5 and No. 6 frames with
1-1/2 inch screws. Knee rests on curved deck beam are optional; these
are installed in white water boats to support fishermen who must stand
upright to land a steelhead or salmon. The slanting splash deck at the
stern is a necessity, inasmuch as rolling waves at the lower end of a
fast rapids sometimes splash aboard before stern touches enough solid
water to rise. Install oak or Masonite plates on transom, inside and
out, to prevent outboard motor brackets from gouging 3/4 inch plywood.
Put a string eyebolt somewhere on transom for a safety rope which is
attached to the motor.

The rowing seat will be dry under the worst conditions, is adjustable
for any person and will not permit oarsman to slip or slide. Its wooden
parts are assembled as shown and 3/8 inch manila is woven back and forth
between the uprights. Slack in rope is taken out by tightening carriage
bolts that hold the one inch dowels. Grooves on uprights may be cut out
with a saw or rasp; if wood lathe is available, they are quickly cut on
a 12 inch length of one inch dowel, which is then sawed into two
lengthwise pieces. Removable section of transom is held in place by
metal or oak strips bolted to transom with 1/8 inch x 1-1/4 inch stove
bolts. The 1/4 inch x 2 inch hardwood runner strips on bottom on hull
are optional. They give additional protection to the boat, but some
expert riverman claim they will catch and hold on sandbars and rocks,
which is not good in swift water. Floor boards should be installed,
constructed of 3/4 inch boards or of waste plywood. Do not attach
permanently until hull is painted on the inside. In painting, first
apply one coat of equal parts linseed oil and turpentine to the inside
and outside of the boat. Finish with paint or varnish.

The boat is now complete. A small bow seat may be installed for a fourth
person on gentle water. With standard seven or eight foot oars you are
ready to go.