Updated 1st February 1999
These drawings were produced using Gregg Carlson's Hulls
software for designing plywood boats, and are in his .hul format.
To use them, down load his Hulls software from Carlson Design software.
Even if you don't get it immediately, Gregg's software is worth
persevering with - it's great fun, and does work. To help you along the way, the author of these pages has written a tutorial for Gregg Carlson's Hulls software for developing chine hulls with up to six chines. The drawings include mostly US traditional-style types, but
there are also a few design experiments of my own. All are
intended as a starting point for anyone who may find them
interesting. Produced by an amateur (I'm really a magazine editor
and musician), they are NOT complete designs - although I have
done by best, there must be a question mark over whether plywood
will bend as I have suggested. I think they will work, but
I do not actually know. The software develops the plywood panel shapes, which in the
small boats can be assembled together by stitch-and-glue. Larger
boats will need a good amount of structural framing etc, and I
suggest you read up on that - and on the importance of avoiding
too much weight above the waterline. Overall, developing these
drawings into real designs will in the case of the larger boats
require some serious homework. But who cares? The traditional
boats are just beautiful. Real designs will also need seats, foils, bouyancy, and sail
plans and rowlocks where needed, and a host of other details. Do
please at least read one or two of the classic boat design and
construction books before you start - better still would be to
have had the experience of having built one of the established
'instant'-style boat designs in the past, preferably of a size
similar to the one you are contemplating. I should add that I have so far only had the opportunity to
build the toyboat that appears at the bottom of this list. That
one does work! I have been careful to avoid pirate any designs from genuine
designers living or deceased, except where stated. Other
resemblances you may find are either coincidental, or due to two
or more people working from the same traditional sources. US types The traditional-style drawings listed here
include two dory skiffs of
10ft 6in skiff and
12ft 6in skiff in
length, a
traditional flatiron skiff, a
Maryland crabber, a Mississipi yawl ,
a flattie with a V-shaped
stern, a Barnegat gunning
skiff or sneakbox executed in numerous ply chines, and a
Vee-section Chincoteague-style skiff. I have also included a scaled-down Egret-style hull.
Unless I change my mind (always a
possibility!), I nurse a great ambition to build something quite
a lot like this half dory/half sharpie form vessel one day.
It will be my shot at the 'Thousand dollar yacht'. The original was 28ft in length, by the way, and there are complete full-sized designs available from Reuel Parker and elsewhere. There are also a 25ft
UK types The United States has a great many distinct
small boat types traditionally made out of wide, flat boards, and
therefore readily adapted for plywood construction. The United
Kingdom, by contrast, has relatively few. I don't yet know why there is
this difference - all I can say at present is that the theory that workforce resistance prevented
widespread adoption of water- or steam-driven sawmills seems
unlikely, when you consider that the money-grubbing hell-hounds behind the UK's Industrial Revolution managed to get just about everything else they wanted from the law makers, from the population and from the peoples the Brits invaded, conquered and often enslaved over several centuries. Nevertheless, the UK does have a number of river punts (scows
in the US); and there is also the distinctive Fleet trow. Yes, I know
that some of the trow's panels twist like hell - but that's how
they were made, and I've seen designs from some well respected
names that twisted this much, and presumably worked when made in ply. The panel will doubtless curve either in or out, and it may be wise to plan on scribing in a curve to meet it. Sadly, the Thames barge's characteristic rig is not thought to be appropriate for vessels under 35ft (the mizzen would be very, very small indeed), and so a cutter-style rig is usually employed. My own, often rather more experimental drawings include a
novel twin-keel dinghy, a pocket cruiser
based on the same idea. I have no idea whether it would work, but it was interesting to see how it might be possible. I have included a sailboard-style singlehander, a more conventional two-sheet dink for
rowing and sailing. but not really carrying loads or large adults to and from
yachts. If you make this one, by the way, it may help to begin
sewing the panels together from the bows end, with the loose
stern ends tied together with string. As you proceed with the
tacking, steadily tighten the string until it's done. I have attempted to draw a 6-chine
plywood pram of classic proportions loosely modelled on the
Herreshof pram, but freely interpreted to make the ply lie nicely
You may be entertained by my toy boat for kids to play with back garden.
My children (two years and four years) seem to like it. If you
make this one, by the way, it may help to begin sewing the panels
together from the bows end, with the loose stern ends tied
together with string. As you proceed with the tacking, steadily
tighten the string until it's done. Again, if you make this one,
by the way, it may help to begin sewing the panels together from
the bows end, with the loose stern ends tied together with
string. The following is my attempt at a single-sheet
boat. Using a similar approach, I tentatively drew a small scow. I gave it more flare than I
could recall seeing in other small scows, as I had the mad idea
that, given a centreboard and rudder, it could be persuaded to
sail, so long as it was always well heeled in light to
light-moderate winds, and sailed flat in any more wind. But then
I discovered it looked just like one of Auray punts described by
Claude Worth, whereupon I modified it slightly to be even more
like Worth's punts. There's nothing like a well-tried design, and
if it does nothing else, this hull should make a useful and
easily built tender. Finally, I wondered what would a wider, shorter and generally more cat-like hull with a
steep deadrise look like? This experimental drawing began as
a Chincoteague-style skiff, to which I have added more beam and
freeboard. Return to boat design
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Traditional boats
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Some of my design ideas
7ft10in dink
since
the 18th January 1999. If you would like to sign my guestbook please click here. If you do, you may be sent occasional emails informing you that the pages have been updated or expanded.