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Venue: Wales
Date: 4th May 2002
Who: Tony Saunders , Huw Jones , Steve Marshall , Andy Longyear

Description: A single day visit to the Ogwen Valley. Andy and Tony climbed Idwal slabs via "Faith" (VDiff) , then "Piton Route" (VS) on Holly Tree Wall, and finally "Upper Staircase" on Continuation Wall. A brilliant lead by Andy on Piton Route. We would have done Cneifion Arete too but for the weather.. and time - we are not fast climbers :/
Steve and Huw climbed "Hope" (VDiff) on the Slabs, but were unfortunately held up as they'd chosen a popular route and it was a bright Saturday at the start of the bank Holiday Weekend. Unfortunately, it stated to rain about 2:30pm - just as Andy and Tony had reached the top and were stowing gear. The Walkie Talkies were well used and saved endless bellowing up the crag when the leader had gone out of sight. Keeping in touch with the other party when descending also proved their usefulness. See my 2 Way Radio Review I did a while ago here.
Thanks to Andy for Driving. Good to see you again Huw - [ yes "Huw" - not Hugh :) ]
Amazingly, Steve made what was for him a quick purchase - some cams.. steady on Steve!

Idwal Slabs - Faith (400ft)
Holly Tree Wall - Piton Route (120ft)
Continuation Wall Upper Staircase (70ft)
Idwal Slabs - Hope (450ft)

<<< The familiar walk-in from Ogwen Cottage to the slabs. The morning was bright with some cumulus cloud scudding about. Llyn Idwal was a mirror reflecting the cliffs of the Devils Kitchen here on the left.
(Below) The rope snaking up Holly Tree Wall - Piton Route.
Getting off - The slabs are a bit awkward to get off. Take your BOOTS! wit you. Below (LEFT) you can see the view down onto the normal scramble off of the top of the slabs. From the top of Continuation Wall you could join this. We however went to the right (if you are facing the cliff) and headed down a grassy scramble to join the scree slope heading down to join the path past the Slabs. It was a bit wet and the scree is steep - but it's not exposed like the normal way off.
Routes: Click the above image to enlarge
(Above) Tony about to lead Pitch 2 on Faith. Above, a climber seconds the start of the traverse.
This is a panorama stitch of Llyn Idwal. Six pictures stitched using MGI PhotoVista. Y Garn and Foel Goch rise over the perfect flat surface of Llyn Idwal.
We had a 50m rope - but the more I climb in Wales, the more I want a 60m. If you're thinking of buying a rope and want to visit Wales / Lakes to climb, it's well worth the extra cost of a 60m over the 50m rope. The extra 10 metres can mean the difference between 3 and 4 belays on the slabs for example.
My rope is 10.5mm single. Obviously a 60m rope will be a little heavier. I wouldn't go much below 10.5mm though simply because of the increased cut resistance.
Click the image to enlarge or the DOWNLOAD Button to save.
The Idwal Slabs on the Right here. Click the picture to see the two VDiff routes we did. Steve and Huw did Hope, Tony and Andy did Faith.
(Above) Huw (back) and Steve waiting to start climbing Hope. Steve's the optimistic and smiley bastard at the front :)
(Above) Steve placing pro on Hope.
(Left) Andy belaying me on the final pitch of Faith. Lovely quartz climbing, this last pitch is mainly almost fingerless smearing. To the right in this picture a climber on Hope. The path back to Ogwen cottage visible in the background.
(Right) Andy lead Piton Route and I'm quite glad he did. It looks easy(ish) form below. The climbing is however committing and delicate, with very few good holds. It's position over the slabs affords excellent views, but really lays on the exposure after the slopey climbing on the slabs. We almost strayed off route more than once. Andy however did manage to place some good protection and the top flattens into a large ledge big enough to park several buses on. Good anchors at the top lend the leader a good feeling of security when setting up the final stance.
(Left) Looking down from the top of Piton Route. The dots at the bottom are climbers at the foot of the slabs.
(Left / Below) Here, Tony leads the final pitch - Continuation Wall - Upper Staircase. It's harder than it appears from the bottom - it looks like a series of steps - but in reality is not quite that simple. Easy Peasy after Piton though... :]~
The slabs make for a great climb, although they were as busy as hell. Queues for the main routes - Faith, Hope and Charity. Faith has an excellent traverse - airy and exposed - with little room for protection. Size 1/2 cam would be useful as there's the occasional quartz pocket. Climbing is easy though and very pleasant.
(Left) Looking down onto the route off the slabs.
(Below) Andy, Steve and Huw - wet bunch of .... :)
Pen y Ole Wen just visible in the background... time to hit the shops
Click the image to enlarge or the DOWNLOAD Button to save.
After getting to the top (around 2:30 ish), the weather had taken an ominous turn for the worse. Clouds and rain came in down the valley as we were stowing the gear.