This article is adapted from an article in Adventurer #29 By Sarah Thursfield.
This is the "straight cut" garment in general everyday use up to about 1350. It is loose, unshaped and simple to make. The mens and womens version vary only in the length. The mans tunic is about knee length and may be split up the front and back or sides to aid movement where as the womans dress is ankle length.
The pattern is based on the normal width of handwoven fabric for the period (typically 50-60 cm). The body sections were simply cut from a length of fabric and the gores were then cut in pairs as shown.
Strictly speaking no pattern is needed and although the design may look complex at first it is actually very simple indeed and may be used for both men and women. Take your own measurements and choose your own style or styles. There is no "right" way to make these garments just make them as fancy takes you.
Chest/Bust, arm length, length from shoulder to hem.
This must either be big enough for the head to pass through or incorporate a slit. A 60 cm circumference will fit over all but the largest head (eg. 40 cm hole with a 10 cm long slit). My feeling with slits is that the mens garment should be made with a front slit. The womens garment can be made without a slit, with a back slit (which looks daft on men but okay on women) or a front slit (but don't make this too deep particularly if you have a large bust).
Normally about 40 cm wide at the shoulder. They can be straight or tapered to the wrist. Wrist sized should be about 20-25 cm to fit over the hand.
Add about 15 cm to you chest/bust measurement to get the full width of the body of the garment. Any less that this and it may end up being rather tight particularly when taking it on or off. Also add 10-20 cm to the length to allow for take up when it is belted, this is particularly important with the ladies dress as women generally have smaller waists so more will be taken up when it is belted.